Everyone I got the final say here on what happened to it SORRY FOR THE LENGTH:
We found the bearings on the number one cylinder today in bottom of the oil pan. The oil hole had all the Babbitt I am supposing it is rubbed off of it around it which meant that the car wasn’t getting enough oil to that rod. The 50-weight oil may have caused this. But doing 60 in 5th then downshifting into 3rd and getting on it I wouldn’t had figured it would have caused this babying it till it was at operating temperature.
I pulled the head off I figured why I couldn't get the bolt off with a 6 point socket. The bolts are 12point. I pulled the head: Number 4 cylinder got a lap dance from the valves; number one had some marks on them. Number 4 has 2 missing valves on the intake, number 3 is missing 2 valves, and the spark plugs on 4 & 3 are seized up in the block I cannot get them pried apart. The number 3 cylinder is full of coolant. ON top of the head the intake cam on cylinder one is scored. THE HEAD AND BLOCK ARE NOT SALVAGABLE. The Head has holes were the valves came down and the pistons hit and bent them into the block denting and putting holes in the runners. THE ENTIRE VALVES IN THE HEAD ARE BENT OR CRACKED.
I pulled the turbo; it had metal shavings in it and pieces of aluminum and one valve... I pulled the intake off; the runners had metal flakes on them. Once the head, intake and exhaust and turbo were out of the car I could see the real damage done. The Balance shaft was completely sticking outside of the block, I can see down through the side of the block from looking up top with the pistons still in them. Oh and the bolts that hold the intake on the car that you have to take off from the bottom side of the car, that piece which attaches to the block is completely broke off. I AM RECOMMENDING NOT TO USE HEAVIER OIL MOTOR OIL FOR SO CALLED LIFTER TICKING. And the fact that I was using synthetic 50-weight from Mobil One is weird.

So here is what happened:

The motor oil was to thick I am supposing on these cold mornings making it run dry a bit but I was also using Lucas motor oil 20% mix to protect against dry starts. Well either way, the number one rod was not getting oil, the ROD BEARING FAILED, which was caused from the rod knock I was hearing before the motor oil got hot. When I downshifted I am guessing the torque was too much on the bearing. It locked the rod up and then the crank bent the rod over it. It shot back up on a compression stroke and caused the piston to fly up and the crank to fly out underneath of it. The piston went through the power stroke sent it back down into the block and the crank came back around and hit it and knocked it into the balance shaft.
The balance shaft went through the block and pulled the timing belt with it into the block and causing it to stop and sent the valve train haywire and knocked out the rockers and broke one rocker in half. The valves sank into the bore and the pistons cam up and pow pow pow, hit the pistons. The oil pump got killed as well as the pickup to it. I finally found the connecting rod too. It was in horrible shape. We are calling around for a new engine, I called a junkyard and they have one for 2800 dollars in a 98 model with 18,000 miles on it cause the car was wrecked. If you have any links for engines please send them to me. Thanks guys

I took pictures of the damage i am getting ready to put the film in at walmart. I should have pictures posted before the end of the week.

I'm assuming that you actually mean 15W-50 when you're referring to Mobil 1.

It's a bit on the heavy side for a winter oil, but once it's warm you're not going to see the sort of oil starvation that you think caused your problems.

You'll want to look carefully at (what's left of) the bearing shells for #1 to see if they're blued from overheating, and how they're scored on the bearing faces. Check the crank as well.

If you really lost the bearing due to oil starvation, I would be more inclined to believe you had a plugged gallery somewhere. #1 is close to the oil pump; you'd expect to see one of the big ends further away go first.

A more likely scenario is that you had detonation issues; #1 runs hotter and thus detonates worse, and detonation will kill your big ends pretty quickly.

I'd also stay well away from a junkyard motor unless you plan on rebuilding it first. For $3k you can buy a nicely built motor and head from one of the vendors here anyway; definitely don't blow your money without some more research.

Sorry to hear how it turned out in the end. You really shouldn't have driven it home.

I use mobil 1 15W50 and it's fine, however I'm in CA where it doesn't really get below zero..

When the motor is all warmed up, the mobil one 15W50 is pretty thin, winter or summer.

Hard to believe you damaged the motor on that oil unless you live near the north pole.. Yes it's thicker than 10W30 but it's not like a straight 30 or 50W oil

I just checked on some prices aroudn here. Napa doesnt stock or supply any of the 4g63's, but advace auto sales a long block for 2495.51 with a 650 core charge. And at the junkyard they typed in online and pulled up two motors one with 18,000 miles and one with 24,000 miles both located in michigain in wrecked cars. When i started my car up it was like 40 degrees outside. That could have thickened it up but if i had to blame anything i would put it on the oil rather than a detonation problem but thats always a cuase aswell

I have been running 15w50 for awhile now, and running 21 psi of boost at 75,000 miles. It gets down into the teens here where I live and I havn't had any problems at all. I personally don't think the weight of the oil would have caused your problem.

Originally posted by SPEEDY
I have been running 15w50 for awhile now, and running 21 psi of boost at 75,000 miles. It gets down into the teens here where I live and I havn't had any problems at all. I personally don't think the weight of the oil would have caused your problem.

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Hey everybody, new to this forum. anyways. I agree with him, im running the same oil, and I have 161,000 on my GSX. The temp right now is in the low 30's, and besides 15W is the weight of the oil when its cold. I have a ran a 50 weight oil to try to get rid of lifter tick, made it worse because it was to thick to pump up to the lifters (not recommened). Not much difference between 15w and 10W. I saw a diagram somewhere online about how the oil gets pumped in a 4g63, nice imformation

Well when i ported the exhaust header i coated it in hightemp paint which was black and good up to 1200 or 1500 degrees. It turned the paint white and kept it white. But wher i ported the header the paint never turned i guess which let me know i did a good job? THe only other thing that i can think of is that like the slight rod knock i was hearing and the sudden torque being appplied just tore the bottom end up all to hell. As of right now i am leaning towards a Long block from Advance auto and turning in my turbo with the core for a AGP T28 or jsut take the core money i could get put it in the motor and replace it with a stock turbo so my dad can stop laughing at me saying you got to much power son. And my response is " Dad, the bottom end is good for 400 hp." He replies "Not this one" and then laughs at me... Oh well i am gonna take my time on this one. You have to pay to play. Life is full of hard knocks.

It might have been your oil pump that failed you. I know that larryd had an oil pump falure which in turn caused his turbo and motor to go south on him.

that could be a possibility.

In case you couldnt put together what i was talking about here is a couple of pics that have the damage shown to the engine.

Enjoy

no pics bro

Sorry bout that i am uploading them here

I am uploading them in my gallery here, its taking a bit. My internet is extremly slow sorry for the trouble. I have one posted right now

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9208

The others will be up shortly here withing the next few mins once i get them cropped down do size

judges say----8.9 for lack of rod toss.

OH atleast one tossed through the oil pan

I gotta run here guys over to lexington for xmas, atleast you can see some of the damage. I will be in lexington until christmas day then come home. I will post the rest up then. You should see the pic i have of the head. I havent got it up yet but damn. Hope you guys enjoy the one i do have up

Ouch that has got to suck. But hey there is a reason to get a 6bolt

Merged the 2 threads together.

Man that sucks

IMHO do NOT gat another 7bolt you WILL be sorry!!!!! Ive gone through 2 already and learned my lesson.

Originally posted by awdvr6
IMHO do NOT gat another 7bolt you WILL be sorry!!!!! Ive gone through 2 already and learned my lesson.

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I own two 6 Bolts, the one that is in my car and one I picked up from a salvage yard . I picked up a complete long block for $175. I might be selling the pistons out of it if I go with 95 pistons.

The lucas motor oil stuff, is that the stuff they sell at advanced auto parts? The stuff in the thing where you turn the gears and it shows you how the oil "stabilizer" works. If it was, go back to the store, and crank the one with the stabilizer in it. If you spin it fast enough, you'll notice bubbles in the oil. A gear head there ( older guy, knows ALOT about v8's) told me that that stuff bubble's up and seizes the engine at high rpms. I don't know if that's what could of caused it, or why bubbles in the oil would cause that, but in my area that guy REFUSES to sell that junk to anyone. They got one shipment and every bottle is still in the store.

Later man, sorry about your car. Get a 6 bolt definetly

Jeez, that sux. Heres some links for complete engines. Beleive it or not MachV.com has complete 6 bolt remanufacured engines for $1599 MachV.com/comenreb.html
Also see www.importperformanceparts.net
they have long blocks for $1427 and short blocks for $829. They don't say if it's 6 or 7 bolt, it just says "1990-1999" Good Luck!

Hey thanks guys i Got some more pics uploaded in my gallery if you all wanna see