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Instructions on my DIY $308 FMIC with piping

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hey guys,
I figured I'd take some pictures and put a tutorial of how to make your own IC pipes and FMIC for a 2g.

PARTS AND COSTS:
$200 - FMIC, USED spearco bar and plate core; 20" x 11" x 3" core
$59 shipped from JEGS.com - 2 stainless steel U BENDS

Hooker/Dynomax Mandrel Bends - OD: 2-1/4''
Radius: 4-1/4''
Leg A: 6''
Leg B: 15''
289-42428


$35.96
shipped - 6 EXM0697 Extreme Motorsports Straight Silicone Hose - Red 2.5"
$13.28 - 14 2.75" worm screw hose clamps from pepboys

TOOLS [ as best I remember ]:

socket wrench with heads [8mm - 14mm]
open ended wrenches [ 10mm - 14 mm ]
phillips head screw driver
dremel with cutoff blades
diegrinder with carbide bit
sawzall, or some sort of cutting tool
JB WELD, if you choose to bead your pipes

Instructions:

1. obtain a core with both end tanks facing the passenger side fender. this is usually used with an up/down [ vertical ] core instead of the side to side [ horizontal ] core .

2. remove your headlights, bumper, bumper cover and prepare to make measurements of where you want the supports to be made.

3. propping up your FMIC, measure the center of the core and align it with the bolt holes on your hood latch. i believe that the power steering cooling line is right in front of the radiator, just a note that I DID NOT move/modify it whatsoever, although some have. you may choose other locations to have mounting brackets, but my bracket already came welded on, so no complaints here. now go get that bracket welded on and drilled.

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4. Okay, now that the FMIC is centered and bolted onto your car via your new brackets, it's time to fit your bumper cover. depending on your core size, you may have to chop a little or chop alot. just keep pushing the bumper cover on until you can tell where you need to cut. now take a dremel with a cut off wheel and be very careful. I only cut enough so that the bumper would fit back on, just dont go crazy.

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you can clearly see where I cut on the top and bottom. *note: i also found that cutting constantly will make the bumper SMOKE. it smells like sh*t and makes you nauseus , so cut in short intervals.

DISASSEMBLE YOUR STOCK SMIC NOW


5. Before you can test fit pipes, you need to grind down the passenger side bottom bracket of the bumper support. This is easily done with a die grinder and carbide bits. IF you dont have access to a die grinder, and dont plan on using your bumper, then you can probably find a way to remove the bracket itself. the big arrow is pointed to where i'm talking about. the other two smaller arrows are pointed to where the bracket is sort of "flared" , these are the pieces you need to trim down to near FLAT.

*refer to the first picture to see the bracket more clearly

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6. Now that your bumper is modified correctly and can be bolted on, it's time to make your FMIC piping. This is very simple with a sawzall or something of the like, it is a huge PITA to do with just a hacksaw and dull blade, trust me. Trusting you have ordered the correct size piping corresponding to your endtanks [ probably from 2 - 2.75" ], you now have two J-pipes to cut up.

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These are the diagrams of where you should cut and will correspond with the next photo. Please make your own measurements as your core will probably be different from my core. note* red with red, blue with blue

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OK - the RED piping:

#1 pipe will go from the stock Jpipe/LICP of your 2g install kit [ b16g ] and do a 90 degree turn facing the front of the car.

#2 pipe will be from the bottom endtank of the FMIC and do a 90 degree turn facing the rear of the car.

#3 pipe will join the two pipes.

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the BLUE piping:

#1 pipe; the curved part will connect into the stock/aftermarket UICP pipe

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#2 pipe will be from the top endtank of the FMIC and do a 90 degree turn towards the rear of the car.

#3 pipe will join the two pipes.

7. [ an OPTIONAL, but recommend step ] : BEAD your IC pipes. you can use this by using small drops of JB WELD on the ends of your pipes to create a "lip" . this will help seal the pipes and not blow off under pressure. OR you can spray the outside with hairspray, this seems to work well also.

8. OK, now the FMIC is on, the pipes fit, and your bumper cover is ready to go back on; DOUBLE CHECK all pipes, hoses, clamps, etc. for leaks, undertightening, anything. Make sure everything is snug before you put the cover back on. having a hose blow off is NOT FUN.

9. reassemble EVERYTHING correctly and VOILA! you're done! now sit back and gawk at your cars new smile. oh, and take her for a test spin, the ass-o-meter will read a good 10 whp.

now for the final pic... and yes the PIMPLE IS STAYING LOL, I have enough trouble with cops; I dont need to give them another bullsh*t reason to pull me over.

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thanks for the time and hopefully everyones install will go as smoothly as mine. props to several members here on DSMTuners for yelling at me to pick up this core. enjoy, any other questions PM me and i'll get you guys back
 
it's been several weeks since the FMIC upgrade and I have yet to blow off my IC pipes at full/partial boost. I opted [ well, really forgot to ] not to bead or spray my pipes during the installation and just tightened everything down snug. The car feels and operates much smoother in acceleration, and it's definately working since the IC pipes are VERY cool to touch even after a session of spirited driving.

goodluck to all who attempt this =P
 
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