The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

E-Brake sensor

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

L2RTSiAWD

Honorary Moderator
20+ Year Contributor
11,533
23
Apr 8, 2002
Chandler, Arizona
For some reason when ever I break the E-brake light comes on and then I accelerate and the light goes off. There is probably something loose but I don't know where to look.
 
That's not an "E-brake" light. It is a hydraulic brake warning light and also is used to inform you when the parking brake is set. When braking what is probably happening is the fluid level in your resevior is low and the sloshing around makes the float go up and down, thus turning on your brake warning lamp. Take off the top to your brake resevior, push the rubber seal back in so that the rubber is all the way in like the picture below. The two pictures in the following posts are the improper position for the rubber.
 

Attachments

  • picture 4.jpg
    picture 4.jpg
    16.9 KB · Views: 624
Partially out of place.
This is how I found mine tonight after removing it. This is after about a month and a half since the last time I checked it.
 

Attachments

  • picture 2.jpg
    picture 2.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 612
Props to ya man.

That was exactly the problem the lid was messed up and the resovoir was bone dry.
 
OOPS, you beat my post. I was just going to write "check the fluid level in the RESERVOIR. RESERVOIR. RESERVOIR. RESERVOIR. RESERVOIR. RESERVOIR". [from the root word: reserve] .... No, I'm not being a 'smart ass'.... I looked it up in the dictionary!
Anyway, as long as we're on the subject... my e-light doesn't light when I set the e-brake. I pushed the float down in the famous reservoir and it still didn't light......... so it's probably the bulb, right? I figured that it was a good test rather than needlessly taking apart the e-brake switch.
 
I had the same thing John, I never new it was a light for your brakes. I always thought it was my ebrake. And I never knew that about the cap....


Props for the pics man. I love learning!
 
Sure. I like sharing the knowledge. Although I could teach myself out of a job. Regardless... I'm trying to help my fellow DSMers. Honduhs suck!

On the light... that's a good possibility that the buld is out. There's also a switch on the bottom side of the brake resevior that could be bad. I would imagine that the float being down, completes the circuit to turn on the light. While I don't recomend just jumping the two without checking first... that's probably what I'd do. It's up to you. Jump the two wires in the connector for the float or pull the cluster and check the bulbs. Just swap it with the another light that comes on during the bulb check and see if the problem goes to another bulb.
Doug
 
Yes, I'll swap the bulbs as soon as the weather improves. I'm a wuss in the cold!

Doug - Also, during the bulb check, my battery light is dim [it has always been] and has NEVER gone on, even when my last 3[!!] alternators have stopped generating. Is that normal? And again, at bulb check, the low radiator light lights yet the reservoir can be bone dry and --- no light appears. Is this probably the switch under the reservoir? Please respond with a private message [to laserblue] since these questions are off the topic of this post.... and I don't want to 'clog up' this thread.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top