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Old 07-09-2008, 01:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
 
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Ok, another update from the shop. Stopped off to see the progress and the motor is in. Everything is not in place yet, but the motor itself is back under the hood. All thats really left on the motor is intake pipe, intercooler pipes, make sure all the vacuum lines are where they are suppose to be and it will be about time to fire it up for the first time. Here are a few pics from earlier today. Sorry, they may not look the best but they are from my phone.









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Old 07-09-2008, 02:34 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Looking good! Like I said before you are gonna love that 16g and with the nice fp mani its going to spool nice and quick. With those 550's and the SAFC you should hit 300whp. How much boost are you going to run? I only got 214awhp on the dyno dynamics at 17psi with a 10.5:1 afr with a pretty similar setup, as far as 16g, 560cc, etc. Your setup is a bit stronger so i'm sure you can pull out more. Especially if you go up to ~20-22psi.


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Old 07-09-2008, 02:51 PM   #33 (permalink)
 
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Looking good! Like I said before you are gonna love that 16g and with the nice fp mani its going to spool nice and quick. With those 550's and the SAFC you should hit 300whp. How much boost are you going to run? I only got 214awhp on the dyno dynamics at 17psi with a 10.5:1 afr with a pretty similar setup, as far as 16g, 560cc, etc. Your setup is a bit stronger so i'm sure you can pull out more. Especially if you go up to ~20-22psi.
To be honest with you Jordan, I am going to start off around 16 or 17 psi and see what we get. If we can get it around 284 whp, I would be VERY happy with that. I am looking to get a smooth torque line out of this thing as well. If I get near 300whp, I would be excited. But I just wanted to get close to stepping up the stock setup at 184.1 (had to get that .1 in there) around 100 whp to around 284 - 300 whp. Like I said, if we can do that, I believe the car will be very, very strong in the series.


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Old 07-09-2008, 03:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Oh yeah very very strong. I'm actually really interested in what you get at 17psi because if yours totally blows mine out of the water then it will probably confirm my fear that there is something not quite right with my motor. So let me know what you get when you get it all setup.

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Old 07-09-2008, 03:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
 
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Oh yeah very very strong. I'm actually really interested in what you get at 17psi because if yours totally blows mine out of the water then it will probably confirm my fear that there is something not quite right with my motor. So let me know what you get when you get it all setup.

- Jordan Butterfield
Yeah man no problem at all. When everything is good to go with tuning and we actually get a chance to get on a dyno, I will be posting all the results up.


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Old 07-10-2008, 09:20 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Are you doing anything for crankcase pressure? I'd suggest tapping that valve cover with some -10an fittings and running a nice catch can breather system. That will help at those high/long rpm pulls.


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Old 07-10-2008, 10:14 AM   #37 (permalink)
 
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Are you doing anything for crankcase pressure? I'd suggest tapping that valve cover with some -10an fittings and running a nice catch can breather system. That will help at those high/long rpm pulls.
Already have a catch system in place. It should do nicely. If it becomes an issue, we will go another route. But from what I have seen and talked to others about, my setup will be fine. Thanks Andy.


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Old 07-10-2008, 11:32 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Already have a catch system in place. It should do nicely. If it becomes an issue, we will go another route. But from what I have seen and talked to others about, my setup will be fine. Thanks Andy.
sounds good, that’s one thing lots of guys kind of overlook. if you see your dipstick popin out, that may be a sign of excessive crankcase pressure.


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Old 07-10-2008, 01:38 PM   #39 (permalink)
 
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sounds good, that’s one thing lots of guys kind of overlook. if you see your dipstick popin out, that may be a sign of excessive crankcase pressure.
Yeah, I've seen others talking about that issue before. I have never had it happen but I will for sure be on the lookout with the new setup.


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Old 07-13-2008, 04:07 AM   #40 (permalink)
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It can be very messy...

Myself I just run a piece of rubber hose off the vent, it runs down the side of the engine around and under the trans. I have not noticed any oil under my car from it so *shrug* looks more stock
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:40 AM   #41 (permalink)
 
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I am most likely going to run a dual catch can setup if it became an issue. For now, I am going to stay with the one catch can setup until it presents a problem. But it will all come full circle when we fire it up and start the break in process next week


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Old 07-14-2008, 09:09 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I am most likely going to run a dual catch can setup if it became an issue. For now, I am going to stay with the one catch can setup until it presents a problem. But it will all come full circle when we fire it up and start the break in process next week
Single catch-can should be fine. However some sort of vacuum pulling air out of the catch can would help a lot. I would hook a line going from the catch can to the intake pipe (before the turbo) to pull air out of the catch can.


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Old 07-14-2008, 09:16 AM   #43 (permalink)
 
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Single catch-can should be fine. However some sort of vacuum pulling air out of the catch can would help a lot. I would hook a line going from the catch can to the intake pipe (before the turbo) to pull air out of the catch can.
My catch can setup does go to the intake pipe. I thought I posted some pics of it somewhere showing that. It has a line from the crank case going to the catch can, the a line going from the catch can to the intake pipe.

You can kind of see it in this picture here. The line on the right is coming from the crank case and the line on the left goes to the intake pipe. Is that what you were saying Andy or something else?



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Old 07-14-2008, 09:32 AM   #44 (permalink)
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My catch can setup does go to the intake pipe. I thought I posted some pics of it somewhere showing that. It has a line from the crank case going to the catch can, the a line going from the catch can to the intake pipe.

You can kind of see it in this picture here. The line on the right is coming from the crank case and the line on the left goes to the intake pipe. Is that what you were saying Andy or something else?
That is exactly what I am saying eddie, run that setup and I'd think that should be enough. If you still have crankcase issues (dipstick popping out), I'd look into having that Valve Cover tapped for some bigger fittings.


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Old 07-14-2008, 09:59 AM   #45 (permalink)
 
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That is exactly what I am saying eddie, run that setup and I'd think that should be enough. If you still have crankcase issues (dipstick popping out), I'd look into having that Valve Cover tapped for some bigger fittings.
Kewl Andy. I thought you might have been just wanted to make sure. I thought about already having that done when it was off, but I didnt think I would have that issue. If it does, I'll get some 10 -AN fittings tapped in there. Thanks man.


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Old 07-14-2008, 01:49 PM   #46 (permalink)
 
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Well I went by the shop earlier today to uh...pay a little of the labor off and they have a unique issue with the motor. Well, unique to me I guess. It seems when they had the motor back together the spun it around to get oil all through the engine before putting back into the car. Which I can understand fully. Now that the engine is back in the car, they took the plugs out and turned it over a few times to get the oil circulating through the engine again before we fire it up. It seems the oil is not circulating all the way to the top of the engine for some reason as of right now. Strange that it would do it fine on the stand but now that it is back in the car, it seems to be having issues. They are going to put it back up on the lift and see if they can jsut spin it faster than the starter can and see if the oil works its way through better before they start it up. So we'll see what resolution they come up with on this issue.

Kind of strange to me it would do fine with a drill spinning the motor on the stand and the oil goes through the engine fine. But when it is all buttoned up into the car, the starter is not turning it over fast enough to get oil all the way through it to the top. But we'll see I guess I am just so ready to have this thing done so we can break it in is all.....


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Old 07-14-2008, 02:07 PM   #47 (permalink)
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You will not see hardly any oil pressure with only the starter. Its not spinning the engine enough. As long as they used assembly lube when building the motor, just go ahead and try starting the motor, if you don’t have oil pressure within 10 second of it running, shut it off and then go from there.

Also, do they have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge hooked up, not sure what they mean when they say oil is not making it to the top, that’s not a real accurate way to test for oil pressure.


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Old 07-14-2008, 02:12 PM