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DenverTalon92

15+ Year Contributor
39
0
Jul 21, 2003
K, my car is runnin rich as hell, dumpin fuel out the exhaust, along with alot of black shit. I though my injectors were stuck open, i've replaced my injectors, fuel pump, new turbo, ignition system, no vacume leaks...i've done everything that I can possibly think of that could be the problem...but my car is still being a lil' biotch!!!

when ever the car warms up it run's rich as hell and I get mad detonation, 100 miles to a full tank and alot of black stuff out the exhaust...what is my problem...any suggestions would be nice!

Thanks

Chad K.
 
-Are you monitoring the O2 voltage? is the carbon coming out inregardless of coolant temp? might want to check the coolant temp.
 
fpr may be phucked what type of fuel mods you running and what control? toomuch fuel and no control is def not good. o2 sensors could also be a factor, messed up cat, if your engine is running to cold it wont burn the fuel as much, if at all. get some more specs or come to maryland so i can try and diagnose it better for ya. good luck
andrew
 
Already replaced the FPR, i've got JDM 500cc injectors. thats about it for fuel. I hav'nt checked the coolent temp...but my car has been runnin cold as hell since this started, it hardly warms up and runs like crap....but then...some times the car will actually warm up a little and it runs even worse than before.
donno about the cat, its a stock cat and 2.5 Boscher exhaust (cat back).
Hav'nt checked the o2' voltage, but I can, what will be the avrage that i'de be lookin for on peak and minimal?
Yes, whenever I rev up the motor, the moment it starts cutting the black stuff starts pouring out! leaving nice patches on the concrete too.

thanks again for all the help guys.
 
Originally posted by DenverTalon92
Already replaced the FPR, i've got JDM 500cc injectors. thats about it for fuel.
...

Aint this a wonnerful place...

I don't supposed you checked the cold start temp sensor resiatance and compared it to all the wonnerful nfo. Modded ECU? Anything you aint tellin us?

Cheers,
GTM
 
500cc JDM injectors
new FPR
2.5 Boscher catback
HKS SSQ Bov
K&N filter
Accel wires
NGK Plugs
Ported TDo5h Turbo with 16G internals

thats about it...could any of this cause it?
everything was fine till I shelled my turbo, after I replaced it...this all started...an no, i'm not building up to much boost. i'm barely hitting 6lbs if that!

god my car is so ###.
 
well if your car isnt up to temp the fuel wont combust fully or right...cold air and a cooler engine is always good but you can go too cold. How is your thermostat? if its open constantly it wont fully warm up and that MAY be your problem.
 
Would my Thermostat being seized open cause me to dump fuel like I do, Right now i'm killing a full tank in about 60-90 miles if that! my car is running rich as hell! my A/F gauge is always in mid to high Rich, even at idle when it should be in lean, it reads rich. When I start my car, it reads peak Rich, then it drops idle to about 800rpm, from their it goes to high Stoich-low Rich, then asoon as I start driving and it warms up what little that it does cause its running cold as hell...its stays in mid to high Rich all the time and peaks when I give it throttle....and throws out alot of black smoke and black stuff all over the ground...

I've replaced the Injectors, I had venom 650's, dropped em' to stock 450's when this started thinking it was the problem, still did it, so I put in the JDM 500cc.
Replace the FPR with a new one. New Tdo5h ported over with 16G internals, but it cuts before I really get boost, I hit about 5lbs of boost and it starts cuttin. I've replaced the Plugs and the wires, but I dont see how back spark would make my car dump all that fuel, regardless, I understand I would'nt be getting good enough spark and I'de get cut, but why would that cause me to dump so much fuel? and as far as the T-stat goes, I can kinda think that's the problem, but my car does warm up....some times....not very often, but sometimes, since this started it only runs cold...but again, that leads me to ask...if my T-stat is seized open, why would my car be dumping in so much fuel. I know that my main problem is that i'm dumpin so much fuel into my cylinders...I just dont know why it's doing it. I've got all the vacume lines in proper place...no vacume leaks.
No exhaust leaks, if that could be the problem, all the exhaust is tight, including the gasket going in between the Turbo and the Exhaust mainfold...I replaced that with the new turbo.
I dont think the O2 is bad because I'm runnin rich, and its reading rich how it should, plus, I've got the car at the dealership right now and they ran Diagnostic on it and their are NO code's. The dipshits called me and said theirs nothing wrong with my car so I asked them how my 13 sec car went to a 30 sec car with 10x worse fuel econamy and they just kinda...well...they were dumbfounded. So I told them I'm not paying them till they find out whats wrong with the car, but I dont really have to much faith in them if I had to explain to them how Fuel cut would work on these cars with stock fuel system on a basicly stock turbo. So I kinda wana find out for myself.

I wont lie...my car is being stupid as hell...I have no reason why it's running like this, I've been working on cars for a long time, been in school for cars for the last 2 years, and everything I can think of...has'nt worked. I am in desperate need to find out whats wrong with my car. I love my car!

any other advice would help....I need all of it that I can get right now.


Chad K.
 
Originally posted by DenverTalon92
500cc JDM injectors
new FPR
2.5 Boscher catback
HKS SSQ Bov
K&N filter
Accel wires
NGK Plugs
Ported TDo5h Turbo with 16G internals
thats about it...could any of this cause it?
...
god my car is so ###.

Assuming you got the plug wires in the _right_ places you can rule that out. You have introduced way too many variables for anyone to sort this can of worms out. You can't just keep throwing parts at it and somehow it's going to get cured.

I'd be interested in knowing how and why the t'stat is wide open. Under normal conditions this could cause the engine to use more gas but not what you are describing. However whatever caused that tstat to explode just may have destroyed the temp sensor which is why I asked you to pull the part and CHECK the blasted thingy. You got to start somewhere and this is as good as any. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you may just have to pull half that stuff off and return to stock so you can rule out what is causing the problem. There are some pretty sharp cookies running around this place and there isn't a one of them willing to stake their life or reputation with anything different.

We are just guessing, if you brought it into my shop and said here's $1000 fix my car, I'd send you down the street. However my money is on the temp sensor, if I'm right you can send the remainin $950 to the list owners and buy me a beer. Oh yeah, double check, no tripple check that you have the plug wires in the correct coils.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I had a problem like that except it was so rich that the car wouldn't run. Turned out to be a muffed ECU cap install. Bad solder connection between the two sides of the board. Have you had new ECU caps? If not thats 12 years and counting.....
 
I just called the dealership, they completely checked out my car top to bottom, every single sensor, every injector, everything is working exactly how it should...temp, o2, you name it, no engine code's either. they tested everything!!! but found nothing, and the tech is guessing that its the ECU...and now babell2 says that was his problem...
damn, now I gotta get an ECU...

Is their a way to repair it...myself?
do I have to have it done for me?
or do I have to replace it?


and again...i've said it before and i'll say it again...THANKYOU all of you for the advice and help...this is the place I figured I should come to find out whats wrong. Thanks

Chad

oh, and GTM, i'll buy ya a beer anyhow, but i'm gonna be drinking too, cause I love to drink. you in kansas? or I suppose I could just fed ex it to ya if your outa state.
 
Well, the links to order the new caps are down...were else can I go to order them?

and again damn, I just moved from CO back here to kansas not even a week ago...well, tonight when i'm drinkin, i'll have a cheers to ya'll for helpin me figure out whats wrong with my car....and again, THANKYOU all so so much!


Chad K.
 
Originally posted by babell2
Look the ECU over here is how to do the repair if things are not to bad.ECU cap replacment And YES I repaired mine. I have the same ECU the car came with in 1990. NO eprom :mad:
BTW Doggy style pale ale (Flying Dog (Aspen)) if you don't mind:thumb:

Yes, I had thought of this but he hadn't mentioned any associated noises or erratic running, just poor running throughout the power band.

It's pretty unusual to have an eploded T'stat, usually this comes when the car has gotten way over boiling and it will take out the sensor. Picking up a plastic grocery bag on the highway on a hot day could be enough. You come to a stop and the bag falls away and you never know the difference if you wern't watching the gauges. Unlike the old ether type of t'stat these wax pellets will just fail one day rather than a gradual loss of pressure. When they die they don't usually explode so I'm thinking it was working before the mishap. Both the gauge and ECU sensors must be emmersed in water, steam usually doesn't have the BTU kinetic energy to record the increase in temp so you are getting a false reading until it's too late and things have overheated. It's probably easier to pull the sensor and test it than to pull the ECU. However if the radio was at 10 he might not have heard the ECU going nuts in the dash. The pi..er is the dealer checked the car over and pronounced it fit yet we know it's not. I don't understand how they could have made that conclusion when it's belching black smoke and getting 8 mpg...

Makes me again feel they didn't pull the sensor and I don't know if that is one of the coded items recorded. It's not involved just have to put in melting ice and then water brought to a boil. I prefer an analogue multi meter so you can watch the needle swing but a digital can work. If the MAPI has gone south this could also give poor mpg but doesn't that have a "limp home" mode and also restrict RPMs?? which he hasn't mentioned.

A retarded intake cam will cause you to press harder on the gas to go the same speed but they make some pretty awful gurgling noises which should be heard when the throttle is opened. They won't foul pistons or exhaust valves so the engine will run.

I don't know what else to suggest other than to start pulling the performance stuff off if these things we've identified don't solve the problem.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I just orderd the Cap's, 2 of each just to be safe...never hurts right.
I figure its worth a shot to see if this is the problem or not, hell, i've already thrown about 5 hundred at it trying to fix it, whats another $30 after shippin kicks in. worth a shot eh? and yes, I will be pullin all my sensors to test them monday when i'm doing the caps on the ecu, i've got a kick ass multi meter I can check all sorts of cool stuff out with.
so again, thankyou all for the help, hopefully my car will run again.

chad.

:talon:
 
Originally posted by DenverTalon92
I just orderd the Cap's, 2 of each just to be safe...never hurts right.
I figure its worth a shot to see if this is the problem or not, hell, i've already thrown about 5 hundred at it trying to fix it, whats another $30 after shippin kicks in. worth a shot eh? and yes, I will be pullin all my sensors to test them monday when i'm doing the caps on the ecu, i've got a kick ass multi meter I can check all sorts of cool stuff out with.
so again, thankyou all for the help, hopefully my car will run again.
chad.
:talon:

Chaddddddd!

I'm gonna bail out on you iff u try 2 do 2 thangs atun sam tim.

For your and our sanity fix/test 1 thing, go on extensive road test, see if there is an improvement even if it means filling the tank driving 30 or more miles and filling again to the same mark. You just can't keep throwing things at it like the shotgun approach for it's impossible to isolate the problem. At 8mpg if you've hit on the solution it should be obvious when you see a jump to 16+.

While waiting for the caps to arrive (might find them in an old computer power supply) you can test the sensors. As I recall Pep Boys charged us $38 for my son's unit. Auto Zone either didn't have it in stock or no listing.

With bated breath we await the Eureka!!.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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