2G Crank position sensor code

[GSXRolla]

Question for someone. Which of the accessory pullies are REQUIRED for the engine to start? What's happened is, I swapped the shortblock of my engine (crankwalk victim), and when I tried to start the engine up, it just kept cranking and cranking, but not actually starting. Well, I had my neighbor plug in his OBDII code checker, and the engine was throwing a crank angle sensor code. Well, we tested the angle sensor, and it was getting power, but I'm not sure on how many volts the wires should be getting. Anyhow, I ripped off the pullies, and timing belt cover, and discovered, that being the dumba$$ that I am, I never completely bolted the crank angle sensor down tight, and that it was actually loose! I figured that that might have SOMETHING to do with it, but I don't want to have to put the timing belt cover, and all the accessory pullies back on until I KNOW it's the sensor. So my questions are:

1) How many volts should the 3 wires to the sensor be getting (the sensor has power, but if I remember right, it wasn't twelve, it was closer to 10.5 or so)

2) What are the minimum pullies/belts that I have to put back on in order to fire this thing up? I'm guessing only the alternator, is that right?

3) Finally, is the only way to replace the angle sensor by removing the t-belt?


I'm well aware that a messed up crank sensor could mean the beginnings of crankwalk, but I seriously doubt that that's the cause of the code (at least this time...). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[boostle]

I'd agree that you only need the alternator pulley. Maybe not even that if you want to try running it on the battery alone for a minute or so.(guess about that).

As for removing the cps, unless you can somehow sneak it around the trigger plate, everything needs to come out. It's been a while but I remember the CPS having a slit in it and the trigger plate went right through the slit.

Another tid-bit, if the CAM angle sensor pukes, the ECM will also show a crank position sensor malfunction code....at least on my 98 it did.

 

[GSXRolla]

I have a feeling that it's not the cam angle sensor, because on a 95-96, it's actually on the inside of the valve cover, in other words, no way I can really screw it up short of shorting it out somehow.

Does anyone know the voltage that should be going through the crank angle sensor?

 

[GSXRolla]

RRRR!!! I was R-E-T-A-R-T-E-D! I put the sensor on backwards, you know, so the little circular plate wasn't going through the sensor? I flipped it, but now of course I'm dealing with something that sounds like a piston tapping the head! RRRR! Damn it! I'm hoping I just have the belt off one tooth or so. I never revved it, so hopefully it'll be fine. It stays running, but I don't know. It sounds almost like something like a VERY VERY loud lifter, but more like metal hitting metal. It's faint at sub idle RPM's, but at idle it's LOUD. We tried to isolate the area it's coming from, and it sounds like it's coming from the intake side of the engine.

One of my friends said it sounds like a broken piston, but why would I get compression off a broken piston?

 

[PogiTSI]

Check ur oil, and look inside ur Spark Plug holes ontop of the pistons for any Dimples, or Crap, if ur Valves are taping the pistons then its possible they would leave there marks. but Does it Run fine with the tapping?? Cause if the timming is Screwy then ur car would run like crap. try Reving it a little bit, and see if it goes up with the rpm's. It could be something on ur Belts, A lose Bracket, Wobleing Alternator.

 

[GSXRolla]

My oil's looking fine. As far as looking in my spark plug holes, it's REALLY hard to see down in there as it's pretty dark. It gets louder the higher the rpm's. I was scared to take it past 1500 because of how loud it would get. No, it's not a lose bracket or alternator. It's definately coming from the bottom of the head or top of the shortblock. Don't know where, but the sound is coming from the top of piston # 1. I'm getting REALLY frustrated w/this, as it's taken me a good 2 months (I've been taking my sweet time) getting this engine swapped over from a previous CW case. I'm about to throw in the towel if I can't figure it out.

 

[PogiTSI]

hmm, who Built the motor? was it a good runner till you Swaped it?? It might be knocking. As far as the Spark Plug holes, use a Flash light, does it run fine at idle????? shortblock, thats the Block right?? not including the bottom end or Pistons or Connecting Arms. It MAY be knocking.....

 

[boostle]

Nothing is hitting the crank timing wheel right? This is a long shot but when I took my rear B.shaft, I disconnected the front shaft but forgot to move the Bshaft belt tensioner out of the way...so it was ticking against the crank timing wheel.

 

[GSXRolla]

Damn, I'm sorry guys. I forgot to let you know how it turned out. My dumbass installed the sensor backwards. rrrr.... brainfart. I pulled the belt cover the other day, and looked at it... "That doesn't look right." Flipped the sensor and sure enough, started right up on the first try. BUT NOW>>> I hear this really bad metal on metal tapping sound when the engine runs. I haven't taken it above 1500 because I'm afraid of valves tapping pistons...

I checked the timing, and the exhaust cam is off one tooth. Would that actually make that sound? I don't think the valves are bent because it idles ok, and I haven't reved it... but would one tooth do that? I'm already in the process of redoing the timing belt, but I sure would like to know if one tooth could do that.

 

[PogiTSI]

its possible, Its probly the Valve slaping the piston head. ehhh the Exaust side shouldnt cause a shitty idle. I think only when the intake and the Exaust are off it would cause shitty idle, or not even to run.

On another note. Take off ur Valve Cover and see if there is any Damage. you dont wana Do the Timming Then Discover you got some messed up valves. then gotta do it all over agian. keep us updated.