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Idle Problem on 4g61t

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SpeedAddict62

15+ Year Contributor
321
4
Jun 5, 2006
Corvallis, Oregon
Ok, posting this here because the 4G61T is basically a downsized 4G63T and I need all the help I can get. Already posted this on 4g61t.org, but figured I would get more responses here. Car is a 1989 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo. Here is the issue:

- low idle, hot or cold
- idle surge
- stalls when stopping (clutch in or neutral)
- very hard to start after stall
- starts right up when cold

The car hasn't always done this, just started recently. ISC tests good, I tested it with a multimeter and it was in spec (about 31 ohms) and plugged it in and turned the key on and off to verify movement. The only thing that doesn't seem right is the timing - right around TDC at low idle. This showed on the logger and I verified it with a timing light. When the idle surges, timing jumps to 8 degrees (where it should be) and idle is right where it should be (around 750 rpm). Then it falls back to a low idle, barely running, and 0 degrees timing. I also logged a WOT run with timing maxing out at 3 degrees without knock. I'm at a loss of what to look for here. ECU maybe? Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
im also having the same issue but i have 272's so i expected some little quirks. ive never really worried about it.
 
pull out your ecu and check for leaking. I had awesome idle surge and it ended up being a bad ecu. Also when logging i noticed some odd values and those all went to normal when i changed the ecu. May or may not be your problem though, but I would take the ecu out and check it.
 
im also having the same issue but i have 272's so i expected some little quirks. ive never really worried about it.

I normally wouldn't worry about it either, but its my friend's car and he wants it fixed. Keeping on the gas to keep it running isn't so bad, but if it stalls it won't start, so it could potentially strand him.

pull out your ecu and check for leaking. I had awesome idle surge and it ended up being a bad ecu. Also when logging i noticed some odd values and those all went to normal when i changed the ecu. May or may not be your problem though, but I would take the ecu out and check it.

I did that, and it looked clean, no sign of leaky caps, but I figure the ECU could still be bad. My next idea was to pick up an ecu to test with, although I'd rather be able to test something than spend the money.

Something I forgot to mention - this car is bone stock. No parts were installed or changed when this problem started happening.
 
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