The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Problems after accident

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

assault187

15+ Year Contributor
567
5
May 16, 2005
Horsham, Pennsylvania
Hey guys, This is what I posted in the link forums. Figured I'd also post here for your opinions.



I was rear ended by a freind 2 weeks ago, this is when my problems started. Immediatly after getting hit, the car studdered, popped, and misfired whenever boost above 10psi was present. It wasnt a bad hit either, minimal cosmetic damage.

Things I have done so far:

I replaced the Walbro 255 fuel pump with a new Walbro fuel pump and checked fuel lines for leaks or pinches

Boost leak test @27psi, found there was a leaky injector insulator

Replaced leaky insulator, and found the coolant plate on the TB was pushing air, Then fixed it. Also found my fuel feed to rail was leaky so i replaced the O-ring, Only leak now is the TB shaft seals, Took the car out and it ran OK untill the next day, where lower and higher rpm w/boost sucked

Swapped MAF, Coil pack, Plugs, wires, and the CAS. TPS is oem new and power transistor is also oem new.

Before this accident happen, I was running 27psi on a RICH baseline, after this happen I couldnt even run 18psi on the same tune......The car hesitates when accelerating at lower RPM, also misfires. I was logging tonight with different boost levels with no luck. Also tried different fuel settings going from lean to rich. What could you guys recomend me do at this point.

Look at the logs, On the last log I was lauching with anti-lag and only hitting 10 psi in 2nd and 3rd gears and my WG was not opening with a 17lb spring inside...Im gonna do another boost leak test when it stops raining maybe monday, Please try and help me out

I have more logs but I do not know how to shorten the logs so they will fit, If you guys need more let me know

To see the original post and logs
DSMLink User Group Forums
 
From what it sounds like, you've exhausted every standard check. You might be having a problem unrelated to the accident. I'd start with checking the condition of the turbo and the exhaust manifold. Maybe pull them both off to see if the wastegate is stuck open or something.
 
well I can tell you the WG is not stuck, Its externally gated dumping to atmosphere so I would hear it. Im gonna check the turbo, after another boost leak test.

Its 5:00am, cant sleep because this is haunting me.....I may start working on it now

Here is my mod list for any questions

1997 Eclipse GST Spyder, 6 Bolt block, 6 bolt head, 1mm Ferrea valves, crower springs and retainers, walbro 255HP fp, aeromotive FPR @43.5psi, global-55, dead time 405, 1000cc rc injectors, Greddy 24 row FMIC, Holset HX-pro 40 turbo, HKS 272 cams , Ross pistons .20over, eagle rods, DSMLink, 30 PSI, Tial 40mm WG, 2.5"-3" exhaust, FP ex. manifold, Meth injection, Mishimoto rad w/ 2 10" spal fans, JMF SMIM

Did another boost leak test, TB seals leak (No suprise) Injectors Impedence on all 4 injectors are 2ohm and stagnent voltage on injector plugs with Ignition on is .10mv

Tested the WG, It opens @20psi

Replaced plugs again and checked out old ones....the tips were a dull red color

Also did a compression test :

Cylinder #1: 70-180
Cylinder #2: 70-175
Cylinder #3: 70-170
Cylinder #4: 70-190
 
what turbo are you running is there a flapper for an internal gate? i had my internal gate flapper break off and be wide open but before it broke totally i could only reach 15psi couldn't figure out why until it totally broke

i just looked at your profile your running 272 cams with stock springs and retainers? if so for how long?
 
I posted my current mod list in this thread, take a look. I ran stock springs and retainers for 3 years

I'm stumped....I don't know where to go on this one.

I spoke to Thomas from ECM Tuning (DSMLink) He tells me its unlikely that there are any problems with the ECU. So I guess I'll repeat everything I did already and hope I get lucky.....
 
Shaft play on the turbo, compression test (The right way), did you get hit in the front or back, miles on car and motor, tranny condition?

Need to fix the wastegate but lmk


Shaft play on turbo is like NEW. It was tagged in the passenger rear on the bumper, 108,000 on the car, 5,000 on the block, 1000 on the head, 7000 on the awsomely working trans, maybe 2000 on all clutch components.

What do you mean by doing a compression test the right way??? All plugs out, throttle open 100% with CAS, Injectors, And coil pack unplugged while cranking the car untill the needle stopped moving. The 1st # listed is the 1st "pop" and the 2nd is highest recorded. This IS the right way to my knowledge for a dry compression test.

The wastegate works as it should, I just hit it with 20psi, opened and closed as it should, Why would I need to fix it?
 
I cant open your logs, but the first two things I'd look at are TPS voltage vs O2 voltage. See if your TPS is out of alignment. Should be 4.9 - 5.0 on WOT. Also I'd get a timing light to see if your cam sensor was knocked backward.

After that, just for shits and giggle I'd check mechanical timing. Hey, it can't hurt can it?


EDIT: CAM SENSOR WOULD BE KNOCKED BACKWARD, NOT FORWARD
 
Will do, I'll double check mechanical and ignition timing and post back with my findings

Ignition and mechanical timing is on point. I took the turbo off and found that my exhaust housing was cracked, chipped and broken inside. The catridge looks OK but looks like I'l be searching for a new housing
 
The misfire was a leak at the fuel rail


When I tried make boost it would never exceed 10-15 psi and it sounded as if the engine was restricted, either not enough intake air or enough flow from the exhaust.

After exhausting EVERY possibility that I could think of, My brother recomended I remove the cat and check it. I thought it was a possibilty but have NEVER heard of such a problem resulting from a cat

Well after pulling the valve cover to re-torque the head studs and make sure everything was in tact up top Justin G (JMF) said "lets just take the cat off and check it" I gave in and pulled it off. To my amazment, the front honeycombs were broken into big chunks and lying sideways making it nearly impossible for air to pass threw. With no resorces available at the time we hollowed out the cat and bolted it back up, took it out and VIOLA!!! The car runs GREAT!!!

Just another chapter to the dumb **** that happens to my car
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top