I really, REALLY need help!

[petersk2]

Hi, I own a 1997 Eagle TalonTSI that I've converted to 97-99 eclipse. Since I got this car car a year ago, I've been plagued with nothing but problems. The car has never really run right, at least for no long period of time.

It starts but doesn't idle properly, it got low vacuum but no leaks. I've changed the gaskets for the throttle body and intake manifold and all vacuum hoses and still low vacuum pressure. I've done a compression test and got 170psi across.

Also the car randomly acts up like there’s this big power loss. The car still accelerates but my EGT drops below 300 deg C. when it should be between 600-700 deg C.

This isn't the first time it's happened, the first time I changed the fuel filter and all seemed well. I then added AEM EMS and a few months later and all of a sudden it stopped working. I verified this by putting back in my stock computer and the car worked fine. I later put in a DSM Link; I traded my computer with a friend of mine for his 95 ECU which always worked fine. After a few weeks I couldn't get the car to start. I traded back with my friend for my original 97 ecu and then was working again, for a while until it stops working again.

We changed out every part on our cars to try to pinpoint the problem, the Idle Air Cont. Valve, MAF, MDP, TPS, coils, igniter, CAS, injectors, etc. After all these checks, it was determined that it may be the engine harness. I got a new harness, changed it out and the car started and ran but still didn't idle properly. Now the exact problem as before is back and it won't run.

I have changed the plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter.

My mods are currently;
Stock injectors
T3/t4b turbo
Turbonetics deltagate wastegate
Stock exhaust
Front mount intercooler
Hks SSBV
Greddy boost and EGT gauge
Greddy turbo timer
Greddy boost controller
6 bolt motor
Wiesco 9.0 pistons
Eagle rods
Fidanza flywheel
Apexi neo (not installed yet)
PTE 680cc injectors (not installed yet)

I have done a leak down test on the engine just to verify no leaks and have numerously done pressure tests to make sure there are no leaks between the maf to the throttle body.
I'm not hitting fuel cut because the wastegate is only set to 6 psi.

I've done everything that I can think of and has hit a dead end, Please help.

 

[theSicKness]

I read the whole thing but i didnt see anything about a simple boost leak test. thats where i would start...

my .02

Jesse

 

[ndsti]

Have you checked your O2 sensors? Where all parts changed out new or used, did you verify that the used parts worded properly before installing them?

 

[petersk2]

Yes I did do numerous boost leak tests with no signs of any leaks and I have changed my O2 sensor. The part that I used was off a friend’s car that works perfectly. Every part that was swapped from my car worked fine on his but my car showed no signs of improvement. I'm about to take down the dashboard and see if any wires behind it looked fried or something. After that I have no clue what it could be.

 

[andymoraitis]

A log of how it runs under a 3rd gear pull would be helpful in pinpointing if the issue is related to open loop or closed loop. Usually, things like that can be traced back to the ECU. I'd also look into potential knock sensor issues, especially if it's never been replaced or possibly overtorqued.

Keep us posted,

Andy

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

How low is low vacuum? What are you pulling at idle?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

My first question since you mentioned you bought the car roughly a year ago.............what kind of title is on it (salvaged, flooded, etc.)? A CarFax report would tell you.

The reason I ask is that with all the items you've swapped from a known running car (and your parts worked fine on the donor car), even down to a new engine harness, and the problem keeps coming back.

The only time I've personally seen a scenario such as this is on a flooded car. But then again, you're usually plagued with other problems as well, especially in the electrical department. If that's the case, you'll never get it right without a hell of a lot of time and money redoing the car basically from the ground up. That's why insurance companies total it. Then it's picked up at auction by "Joe Blows" car lot and fixed good enough for you to sign the paperwork, afterward you're basically on your own.

But yes, a couple of logs...at idle and during a 3rd gear pull could help.


my 0.02

 

[petersk2]

Thanks a lot for your help guys.

I'm unfortunately unable to log the car. It starts and revs but there's no power, I just don't trust it to go out with. Worse is if I reinstall the DSM link, the car won't even start.

My Greddy gauge shows in mmhg instead of inches, normally it would be a little more than 500 mmhg which should be around 20 inches, right now it's more like 200-250 which should be about 10 inches or less. I have checked and rechecked for any possible leaks and changed out all vacuum hoses. My compression check shows 170 psi across and I rechecked the engine timing, it's perfect.

As for the title, when I bought the car it did have a clean title. The original 7 bolt motor had crankwalk and I had the 6 bolt installed and the car ran fine. Unfortunately my car was stolen a few moths later and the motor was taken. I bought back the car from the insurance company and the car was then declared as salvaged.

I have since taken out the dashboard and will try to go through the wires and see if there's any apparent damage. I will take andymoraitis and try changing the knock sensor.

Thanks again guys, I'll keep you all posted.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Unfortunately my car was stolen a few moths later and the motor was taken. I bought back the car from the insurance company and the car was then declared as salvaged.

Sorry to hear about the theft, however, that sheds new light on the subject. Thieves have a tendency to rip items out without regards to any damage they do beyond the items they're stealing.

You'll have to really go over it and inspect every area that was touched by them. You also have to consider that since it was stolen and evidently declared totaled by the insurance company that the storage lot might have had a hand in some of your problems as they could have pilfered parts themselves and caused even more damage.

You definitely have a project on your hands. A nice warm garage, a shop manual with schematics, and a couple of friends will come in handy.


Good luck.

 

[theSicKness]

if you did half to repair any of the wires in your engine harness i would make sure they are shielded properly. Electrical tape wont do it alone use shrink rap and a wire coil. I had a small problem with my shielding when i did the 1g head swap going to my cas.

Good luck with the problem and sorry to hear about the theft..

Jesse

 

[petersk2]

Hi guys, I got my car working again. I t was a combination of a couple things. First the original engine harness was bad, what was bad about it I'm really not sure, but the reason my car wasn't starting was that there was a loose harness going to the fuse box located inside of the car.

That solved the starting problem but the vacuum was still really low, after checking with my friends car on how the vacuum hoses were routed on his car, I realized that although all my hoses were connected, it was not in the correct order. After correcting this, my car now runs and idles perfectly. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[andymoraitis]

That's great to hear. Props for sticking with it and getting her going.

Now go have some fun!

Andy