Oil pump, or another problem?

[kasper618]

I recently spun a rod bearing and I tore down my entire motor for a rebuild. I'm trying to find the cause of my spun bearing because I don't want to have to go through all this work again. Everything looked good, I have a bse kit installed entirely, all blockoff bearings, and the short stub. There were a few strange things going on when my bearing started to go. I have a brand new electrical oil pressure gauge picking up from the filter housing, and it was reading more like a tach signal. If i rev the motor, no matter how much, the oil psi will keep going up, and fall back down with rpm. I dont think it's a faulty gauge because I have my turbo feed coming from the filter housing also and it blew oil past my compressor wheel. (Relocating to head feed) Also, my car shook violently under a load.

After I got it all apart, I noticed my oil pump sprocket was hard to turn, I have an extra front case with the shaft still attached and that one is significantly easier to turn then the one I had installed in my car with the bse. Does the bse stub make that sprocket a little bit harder to turn did anyone notice?

I'm just trying to pinpoint the problem, this thing was rebuild less than 5k ago.

 

[ddavisaf]

Concerning your oil pressure readings. Those are completely normal. The higher the rpm, the higher the oil pressure. So your tachometer like readings are correct.

Your oil pump is another story. When an oil pump goes bad the sprokets dig into the front case. Making it difficult to turn, and eventually it will bind. I'd highly recommend taking it apart and check for signs of wear on the underside of the sprokets. Also, make sure there isn't anything on the teeth of the gears that may cause it to bind slightly during rotation (metal slivers etc.). Also, make sure the nut holding on the stubby shaft is nice and tight. If it's not it will seperate and cause your stubby shaft to fall out, seizeing the oil pump and destroying the motor.