Warped head???

[4GSixty3]

Too make things short, yesterday I drove my car and didnt realize I had a coolant leak and the temp spiked to the red and until I pulled over and shut it down it was about 10 seconds. Found the leak and fixed it and the car was being a bi*** to start so we checked compression and it read from #4-#1.....120,90,85,80....eventually it started and I tried to drive it to my house 7 miles away and made it halfway til the alternator belt snapped...turbo wasn't boosting real well either like it took awhile to boost to 10 but it didnt even feel like it was at 10...do these numbers suggest my head being warped?

Extra note - car is fully rebuilt with 50 miles on it

 

[harjms]

Extra note - car is fully rebuilt with 50 miles on it

that sucks...did u have the head planed when u did the rebuild? im assuming new headgasket and new headbolts and all the goodies...y would it do that? did u have the timing marks lined up right?

 

[4GSixty3]

Well I was told running a car with no water in it and having the temp spike to red is pretty bad and can cause a head to warp. Didn't have the head machined b/c I figured it was off a running car but I probably should have but it was running fine before I blew my first turbo at 30 miles 4 days ago (didn't mention that in last post and this is where all the problems began) b/c of the nut that holds the compressor wheel on backing off and sending my exhaust turbine/shaft down through my 02 housing and oil burning out through my exhaust. As for head bolts, everyone I know uses the same ones and I can say it doesn't matter about them b/c no1 I know has had a problem with reusing them. Headgasket is new, etc...all timing marks are lined up fine. I'm thinking it's warped.

 

[Prez]

Well I was told running a car with no water in it and having the temp spike to red is pretty bad and can cause a head to warp. Didn't have the head machined b/c I figured it was off a running car but I probably should have but it was running fine before I blew my first turbo at 30 miles 4 days ago (didn't mention that in last post and this is where all the problems began) b/c of the nut that holds the compressor wheel on backing off and sending my exhaust turbine/shaft down through my 02 housing and oil burning out through my exhaust. As for head bolts, everyone I know uses the same ones and I can say it doesn't matter about them b/c no1 I know has had a problem with reusing them. Headgasket is new, etc...all timing marks are lined up fine. I'm thinking it's warped.

Sounds to me like it is NOT FULLY REBUILT. Looks like you took the cheap way out and half-assed the rebuild hence your problems now after only 50 miles. I just did a rebuild and I had a 550 dollar machine shop bill alone, plus all new gaskets, timing components, rings, bearings, water pump... blah blah... list goes on and on.

Anyway A FULL rebuild should include. The engine Torn down block and head sent to machine shop. The head hottanked, valves checked, pressure test the head, valve stem seals, 3 angle valve job. The block should be hottanked, line bore checked, cyl bore checked, pressure tested, honed, and decked. You need to have the crank checked as well. Get new bearings and rings. Assemble the entire engine correctlly. Follow tourque specs and use lots of pre-lube on the einge so when you start it doesn't #### it all up. Prime the oil pump. Put all your new timing components on.

And reusing the head bolts may be ok but not a good idea. You are supose to measure them when you have them out and see if they have stretched. This is why most people like I get the ARP headstuds. They don't stretch and will help keep that head down.

Even if your head is warped taking it to the machine shop will do nothing for you if the block surface is warped as well. If the car ever got overheated it's a good possibility it did get warped. Take your time, spend the money and do it once instead of twice or three times the cheap way which will add up to be more than thr right way.

I beleive had you actually done a FULL REBUILD you would not be in this spot. You half ass something on a car you get halfassed results.

 

[4GSixty3]

Compression before I ran it was 150 across so I'm pretty sure the head, etc was fine...and most people do say "get this done get that done", blah blah blah but when you need a car and don't have alot of money, that's when you start getting in the knitty gritty shit like re-using heads, etc...what exactly does a 3 angle valve job have to do with a stock rebuild anyways? as far as headbolts, it's been proven on teamnabr.com that stock 1g bolts are better than arp so... ...hell I torque my headbolts down to 100 lbs anytime we do heads and so does everyone in our club...held up great so far...all I asked was "is my head warped", not "well, you should have done this and this and this"...I know I "should have" but chose not too so I'd appreciate if you could just give me a straight answer next time and not lecture me like a student.

Edit - new gaskets, timing components, rings, pistons, bearings, water pump, etc are all new on this thing...by the way "I wouldn't be in this spot if I didn't "half-ass" the job"...how does my hard pipe coming out of the water pump have anything to do with "half-assing" a job and not getting surfaces,etc checked?