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something is drawing power?

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rightaway

15+ Year Contributor
70
0
Nov 11, 2003
my battery is alway dead.so i bought a new one. and the same thing happens. runs good all,after charging it all night but if you let it sit for more than a day,that the car is dead.i hate bc i have dsm link and have to reload it all the time and very afraid to take to out somewhere bc the battery might die. i do have a system in the car. so how do i find out what it drawing all the power?do you think it is the alternator?do you think ground wires would help?
 
Remove your system from power, leave it and see if it runs out of power. If that is not it, unplug your ISC, leave it overnight, and see if that works.
 
if i just take the inline fuse out,will that be enough?or do i have to take the connector off the terminal?
 
it might not be anything that you have put in the car, in mine the light in the trunk area kept staying on and kiling the battery, so check that before removing a bunch of stuff.
 
Taking out the fuse should suffice. I have a sneeky suspicion its either a bad ISC or a bad ISC driver in the ECU.
 
how what i check the isc.is it located next the the throttle body?if i had a bad ground on my system,would that cause the battery to die?
 
just checked and my volts were 11.7 with the car off and 14.4 with the car on. now i'm going to put the fuse back into the system and see if it drains the battery at all.

ok,its been about an hour now,and my battery has only 2 volts and wont start.so it has to be my system.where do i start?i looks all good to but but where the grounded it,just dont look right.they have like 3 ground wires going to the same stop under the rear seat.can i use my volt meter and find out what wire is giving me the problem?
 
karbon said:
Yes. Take each ground wire off in turn and test for volts between the end of the ground wire and the ground spot. Whichever one registers anything but 0 volts is the culprit.

basicly the parasitic drain test.

you could also unhook your negative battery cable, and put a volt metter inline.
(WARNING - DO NOT TURN ANYTHING ON WITH THE VOLT METTER INPLACE!!! IT WILL BE RUINED.)

with this metter inplace, you can search around pulling fueses, or unhooking items you added.

good luck
 
thanks,i'll try that.can there be to many wires hooked into on grounding spot?so i'll take one ground off at a time and see what happen.i'll also check the fuse.but i'm pretty sure it has something to do with the amps drawing power bc when the power was unhooked all week,the car started fine.i but the fuse back in,and with in a hour,the battery is dead.
 
does your system have the remote turn on hooked up corecctly? if not and its just hooked up to a positive your amp will always be on that is what i think your problem is but that just my .02 :talon:
 
Snail Tuning said:
(WARNING - DO NOT TURN ANYTHING ON WITH THE VOLT METTER INPLACE!!! IT WILL BE RUINED.)
Well, generally you can turn whatever you want on with it in place as long as you're testing for voltage and the meter can handle the voltage (12 volts is no problem obviously). If you're testing for resistance and run some juice through the wire, you'll blow the fuse in the voltmeter in short order, which isn't hard to replace anyway but don't do it anyway ;)

Also it kinda sounded to me like something is up with your remote...perhaps the relay it trips inside the amp is stuck on. It's not difficult to wire your own relay up using the 12v power wire to your amp and using the remote wire as the trigger current. Just make sure the relay can handle whatever juice your amplifier pulls.
 
karbon said:
Also it kinda sounded to me like something is up with your remote...perhaps the relay it trips inside the amp is stuck on. It's not difficult to wire your own relay up using the 12v power wire to your amp and using the remote wire as the trigger current. Just make sure the relay can handle whatever juice your amplifier pulls.


This is mostlikely your problem, you wouldnt happen to be using a rockford amp? =) I had one in a old car that basicly fused in the On mode, it didnt matter if the remote wire had voltage or not the amp just stayed on.
 
yea they need to be hooked up to a remote turn on i had both my amps hooked into one remote turn on and never experianced any problems (just spliced into the one remote and ran it into other amp) most likely if the amps are unhooked and the battery is fine in the morning you are probley going to find that it is a remote turn on (if you have a positive instead of a turn on) hope this helps :talon:
 
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