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electrical problem

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16gkid

20+ Year Contributor
46
0
Nov 14, 2002
Glendale heights, Illinois
Let me get right to the story: I go out to the car this morning and i start it and everything is fine, i go back inside to grab some things, i came back outside and the car died. I figure no biggie i got cams and it tends to die out sometimes. I hop in the car and crank the key and nothing happens. When the key is in accessory none of the gauge lights turn on, the starter doesnt make a noise when i try to crank it, radio,windows,clock,and exterior lights dont work. The interior lights all turn on so i know the battery has juice, so i look at the fuse box and the fuse(30w) for the ignition is blown, so i take it out and put another one on there and it blows the fuse right away without the keys in the ignition. We tried to inspect all the wires from the starter and ignition assembly and they all seem ok, so as of now i am clueless on what it is. Does anyone have any ideas or maybe even a good electric wiring diagram for a galant vr-4 or dsm? Any ideas or help would be appreciated as i wanna get this car running before shoot out
TIA
 
Temporarily connect a small 12v light bulb in place of the blown fuse. It will light if there is a short. Then start disconnecting suspected things or anything on that circuit. When the light goes out, there's your problem.
 
See thats the problem, i dont know what is all connected to that fuse since i dont have a decent wiring diagram, the haynes and chilton diagrams are not very good.
 
Then just start disconnecting everything in sight (start with alternator, then exterior lights, etc) and watch for the temporary light to go out. What year/model is it? The 30 amp fuse (later models use a fusable link) usually powers the fuel injection system as well as the ignition. Hint: Also disconnect the stuff that doesn't work as one of them may be causing the short.
 
:confused: :barf: :mad: :cry: :cry: :cry:
Got the same problem im going to get a manual from ebay and go through each device connected to the fuse with the test light and multimeter for testing which is explained how to do to on this web site electrical . I been to a mechanic and with nothing done they also damaged my exterior of the car :mad:
It would be usefull to see what is connected to that fuse thanks
My car dies after 8 to 10 min of driving and draw is not excessive becaouse it does not cause electrical fire when i made a circuit braker, should i maybe go with a bigger fuse ???
So for that reason i quess i got to test ewrything with car running on because if i let it rest for five minutes ewrything is back to normal
Also does anyone know what the two white cables are used for connected to the positive batery termical with the third cable????? used to hear this sound when they were touching together but i fixed that.

i went through ewry post about this fuse and saw it was a problem with wiring an aftermarket fuel pump.

Thanks
 
98EclipseTurbo said:
should i maybe go with a bigger fuse ???
Also does anyone know what the two white cables are used for connected to the positive batery termical with the third cable?????Thanks
NEVER go with a bigger fuse as that will allow wires to melt (and you don't want to have to find a melted/broken wire inside some impossible harness somewhere). If you're blowing fuses, the circuit is drawing more current than it is supposed to for the wire size used, so something is wrong. The big cable on battery + goes to the starter. The other white cables go to fuse boxes and provide all other power to the car/engine. If you added a larger fuel pump (that draws more power), you should fuse it to a fusable link circuit (or relay) that can handle the extra current, otherwise the original fuse may blow since that fuse and wire size were not designed to handle that much current. Remember, to save money, car makers use wire sizes just big enough to handle the original equipment. If you add things that draw more power, you risk blowing a fuse - and replacing the fuse with a larger one you seriously risk melting wires big time (sometimes to other wires or grounds) so that should NEVER be done.

98EclipseTurbo: I have the '99 Mitsu manuals and can look up what is on your fuse if you PM me and tell me exactly which fuse (and where) you're referring to (there is more than one 30A fuse and fusable link). Also you may try some public libraries have the professional Michell Auto Repair Manuals which have schmatics of most cars (call them).
 
My best quess would be that it has to be a component that is working when the car is on. Alternator was cheked by mechanic and then there's the fuel pump. I will know what to check for more when lovetorally will send me more info. The weird thing is that mechanic checked the car with somekind of power meter and ewrything good untill 10 minutes pass and all the meters just die with the car . two weeks before the problem i installed injen intake blow through set up with blitz bov and up IC pipe. The car does not have an aftermarket fuel pump .
 
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