Could a fairly good size boost leak cause this? I just found one at my egr block off plate. So much so that it was spraying meth out of the leak. My other problem. I didn't pull the fuse when I was doing my boost leak test. Should I just follow the instructions to clear it out?
Could a fairly good size boost leak cause this? I just found one at my egr block off plate. So much so that it was spraying meth out of the leak. My other problem. I didn't pull the fuse when I was doing my boost leak test. Should I just follow the instructions to clear it out?
I'm not sure if you determined that during the boost leak test or not. If yes, then you need to disable the injection when doing a boost leak test (or risk hydrolock). Either d/c the power to the pump or remove the hose at the check valve and point it in a safe direction. The benefit of this latter method is that you can confirm at what boost pressure the injection is activating at as well as confirming that you are indeed injecting fluid at the nozzle (relative to your previously stated concern).
I meant to remove power to the pump before the boost leak test. Is there a better method other then pulling the plug wires, holding it at wot and turning it over a couple times to clear it out?
I understand that typically it is not recommended. But according to Aquamist there may be new evidence to support the idea. Just wondering if you have experimented with this and what results you had if you did. Specifically, any signs of damage/corrosion to the IC?
devilsown : will there be anything monitoring the water levels ?
and another question to the the gurus over here
do you tune the car with the water/methanol injection or do you just fit it in after a good tuneup.
and if we were to tune the car with the water/methanol kit switched on , what kind of problems we would be facing when the water/methanol finishes
and lastly , how many miles can the tank bring u for lets say for a 300whp car which boosts constantly on the freeway
You tune it with the meth. If you have something like DSMlink you'll be able to see when it's injected because your a/f ratio will richen. You usually want to check your tank every so often. Devils Own sells a float switch that you can instal. You really don't want to run out of meth seeing how most people that use it use it on high boost applications. It depends on how much your boosting. The more you boost, the more you use. I've heard some guys say that 1 gallon will last them a full tank and others say that it'll last them longer.
You tune it with the meth. If you have something like DSMlink you'll be able to see when it's injected because your a/f ratio will richen. You usually want to check your tank every so often. Devils Own sells a float switch that you can instal. You really don't want to run out of meth seeing how most people that use it use it on high boost applications. It depends on how much your boosting. The more you boost, the more you use. I've heard some guys say that 1 gallon will last them a full tank and others say that it'll last them longer.
thank you very much sir, i do not have a dsmlink bt i have a megasquirt instead with wideband on closed loop
If i decied to go get meth injection this devils own stuff appears to be were ill look.
Ive been having trouble getting a good consistent pump gas tune free of knock with the types of boost/ timing i want as a minimum. I am more for E85 to be honest, but since it could be at least another year or two before that stuff arrives in my location and im getting antzy to get more out of this setup,
i am almost about to join the dark side and get a meth kit, and just run walmart windshield washer fluid...
Ive just always felt that there is more maintenance and that there could be freak of nature problems with something in the system failing to work at a critical time and causing the end of a perfectly good motor...
But after further researching and side stepping my own stubborness it seems the stuff is pretty manageable and in some sense reliable.
Something else that would make this not so bad for me is that I have a knock alarm buzzer mounted in my interior under the small 4in speaker cover on the dash. Its wired signaled to my ecu, connected to my vacant purge solenoid, and its activated by my eprom chip, set to go off at anything over 10 counts of knock and its very audiable and has saved me in many occasions because I let off the gas while it goes off, while someone else without this type of monitoring would just continue going thru with their pull/ knocking, and hurting their motors. I dont care much for tuning by logging knock, i mean i do, but knock already logged is just damage potientially already done...
Anyways, I suppose if my meth injection did fail one day for whatever reason id just trip the buzzer and let off....
One quick question, just using the cheap walmart windshield washer fluid, how much more aggressive have some of you been able to run?
I dont plan to go for the extreme, im just looking for an additional 1 or 2 psi and an additional 5-6 degs of timing to be honest. Im more for using this stuff so i can bump up timing advance not boost; my IAT's are fine at the momment... Im already about to have my tune set at 22-23 psi knock free which is enough boost for me daily,
but at the cost of my timing being yanked way back to roughly 12-14 degs mid range, and no more than 17-18 deg peak. Id love to see 16-18 mid range timing, and 20 degs peak on 22-23psi...
5 gallons of VP M1 methanol is $35. 23 psi and 16* is pretty good on pump. I'm going to be installing another nozzle because I messed up and put my nozzle about | | this far from the TB. I have a feeling that it's not letting the methanol atomize with the intake charge long enough. I did some research and the best place to put a nozzle is right after the ic. It doesn't affect the bov at all and cools the intake the charge the most out of any placement.
5 gallons of VP M1 methanol is $35. 23 psi and 16* is pretty good on pump. I'm going to be installing another nozzle because I messed up and put my nozzle about | | this far from the TB. I have a feeling that it's not letting the methanol atomize with the intake charge long enough. I did some research and the best place to put a nozzle is right after the ic. It doesn't affect the bov at all and cools the intake the charge the most out of any placement.
Im eventually going Gm maft to free up restriction in front of my turbo and im placing the maft in blow thru which if i put the meth nozzle a good inch or two after the bov it will only leave me about 6 inches of pipe space for the meth to try to atomize ( is that enough?) and doesnt the nozzle have to go after the gm maft?.... If need be i can get pics of my uicp for opinions on were to put it.
This may sound basic, but is there any chance of too much water being injected and causing hydrolock. I doubt meth would cause that, but im sure you have to be careful on your mix, especially when using bigger jets.
Were do you purchase that VP M1 stuff and a rough estimate, how long will 5 gallons of it last for the average person daily driving there car. Im guessing the average person who does spirited driving around town would be having to buy about 10 gallons of that stuff a month... Any more than that and that can be a little on the expensive side for me...
You'll need a gallon or 2 a month with a HUGE heavy foot always boosting. I ahve a 2 quart tank and i fill it about every tank full running and M10 nozzle.
i've already told you most of my other stuff in other threads, so i'll let other people chime in to convince you how much good a meth kit would do for you
You'll need a gallon or 2 a month with a HUGE heavy foot always boosting. I ahve a 2 quart tank and i fill it about every tank full running and M10 nozzle.
i've already told you most of my other stuff in other threads, so i'll let other people chime in to convince you how much good a meth kit would do for you
Thanks again me.
Im pretty much convinced, I just need a few months to take care of some other more important things first and then i will gather all my researching of up to that point and make my decision.
how long will 5 gallons of it last for the average person daily driving there car.
This will vary a LOT. It depends on where the controller is set to kick in, what psi it reaches max flow at, how much boost you run, what AFR you tune for, what ratio you mix it in, what size nozzle(s) you use, how many miles you drive, and how often you put your foot in it.
With an M5 nozzle, 50/50 mix, spraying from 7psi to 20psi of boost, and getting on it "once in a while" ...
I have to refill my stock reservoir every 2nd fill-up or so. I have about 2.5 gallons left out of the 5 gallons I bought a couple months ago.
BTW - If you are already at 23psi and 12-18 degs of timing knock-free on pump gas, that's a pretty damn good tune for your E16g. You may not see much (if any) advantage to the meth kit, other than maybe saving you from bad gas or possibly a more even burn and a couple HP. (wish I could get close to that timing WITH my water/meth ).
What AFR are you running?
EDIT:
And looking at your mods...why is your base fuel pressure set to 48psi?
Has the topic of mav-valves and safety switches been addressed yet? I'm curious as to what preventative measures are being taken by other folks who run 28+psi on pump with meth kits.
I run a hobbs switch an a DSM egr solenoid valve. When the hobbs switch sees water pressure below what I set it, the hobbs switch cuts off the current flow to te solenoid valve. It opens up allowing manifold pressure to bypassing the manual boost controller and go straight to the WG actuator. When I was running 30+ psi with my 60-1, my wastegate pressure was safe enough for pump a$$, er gas, with my tune and FMIC.
I've never had a hobbs switch fail me in years.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
This will vary a LOT. It depends on where the controller is set to kick in, what psi it reaches max flow at, how much boost you run, what AFR you tune for, what ratio you mix it in, what size nozzle(s) you use, how many miles you drive, and how often you put your foot in it.
With an M5 nozzle, 50/50 mix, spraying from 7psi to 20psi of boost, and getting on it "once in a while" ...
I have to refill my stock reservoir every 2nd fill-up or so. I have about 2.5 gallons left out of the 5 gallons I bought a couple months ago.
BTW - If you are already at 23psi and 12-18 degs of timing knock-free on pump gas, that's a pretty damn good tune for your E16g. You may not see much (if any) advantage to the meth kit, other than maybe saving you from bad gas or possibly a more even burn and a couple HP. (wish I could get close to that timing WITH my water/meth ).
What AFR are you running?
EDIT:
And looking at your mods...why is your base fuel pressure set to 48psi?
My tune def isnt so great, but sure i have a lot more control then those safc/ maft guys.
Base fuel pressure is at 48 because of the ntfpr and it is already compensated in roughly with the chip. Bumps up injector flow, makes them act as a bigger size.
Something thats been on the car for a long time now, and it works good, and in my unfactualy opinion , helps with fuel pressure over run a bit by starting with a higher base.
But that all is a different story.
My afrs range from 10.8 to 11.3 depending, and my peak timing right now is 18 degs after 6k, mid range doesnt see nothing more than 12-13 degs until after 6k...
That is a lot of timing pulled back actually, i am only running 21-22 psi safely but fourth and fifth gear in colder weather likes to creep up to 24psi which will knock a little on my set up.
I still have a lot of tuning to do to make this thing happy on pump gas, or fast for that matter....
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm-onster
I run a hobbs switch an a DSM egr solenoid valve. When the hobbs switch sees water pressure below what I set it, the hobbs switch cuts off the current flow to te solenoid valve. It opens up allowing manifold pressure to bypassing the manual boost controller and go straight to the WG actuator. When I was running 30+ psi with my 60-1, my wastegate pressure was safe enough for pump a$$, er gas, with my tune and FMIC.
I've never had a hobbs switch fail me in years.
One of my friends was telling me something about doing it like this..
I will have to look into it further.
You said "When the hobbs switch sees water pressure below what I set it"... and I am a bit confused on how you are measuring water pressure from a BOV line.
You said "When the hobbs switch sees water pressure below what I set it"... and I am a bit confused on how you are measuring water pressure from a BOV line.
Oh my. . . I have alot on my mind right now. . . I just described how my water injection system cuts on.
The hobs switch I have for fail safe is plumbed into the water line. The diameter on my line (fuel injection hose) is perfect and tight for the hobbs switch threaded port. It is worm clamped. I set it with my air compressor at 20 psi. This was back when I had a variable control system than ramped up water pump power based on boost. But since then, I've scrapped it for a much simpler, equally effective (in my case) hobbs switch. I don't know to what maximum pressure a hobbs switch adjusts. But, I do know if there's not 20 psi in the water line then the water tank is empty .
I think I will be going back to a more complex system soon however. I'm saying this because I don't want to negate the benefits of a kit which is the best way to get that variable control. I just wasn't running enough turbo/boost/tune (or cylinder pressure) early enough in my rpm range to merit a staged or variable flow system.
A hobbs switch is basically an "oil pressure sending unit" for an oil light. It can handle fluids including alcohol and gasoline. And it can handle engine bay heat. It's a great fail-safe.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
Ok.. I'm still a bit confused though. How do you have pressure in your WAI line when it isn't spraying? If you have the Hobb's in the line going to the intake tract, it would be in "fail" mode all the time that you aren't spraying H2O/Alky... right?
Chance might wanna jump in here to expand on this (or correct me ), but I believe his system uses the processor to modulate the pump on and off at it's set pressure, to variably control flow. In this case, I doubt that any kind of pressure switch would work, because you never see constant pressure anyway.
BTW - I've been running Chance's DevilsOwn kit for a while now, and it works beautifully. My only "wish" is that it had a built in flow/pump failure warning and an output to drive a solenoid... but I believe he was working on a new controller that incorporated some of this. It may even be out now... I haven't checked in a while.
Ok.. I'm still a bit confused though. How do you have pressure in your WAI line when it isn't spraying? If you have the Hobb's in the line going to the intake tract, it would be in "fail" mode all the time that you aren't spraying H2O/Alky... right? . . .
There's nothing wrong with that. Though the MBC is bypassed, boost response with my small 16g is still fantastic. It was also great for my 60-1. The shurflo pump builds 20 psi of water pressure nearly instantly. My other hobbs switch, which activates the pump for injection, is set at 7ish psi. So at 7psi of boost, my water injection activates builds pressure nearly instantly and the other hobbs switch activates the egr valve. Bam, the wg actuator sees only what the MBC allows.
Variable water pressure or not. . . If there's no water pressure, I want no MBC fooling the wastegate actuator. I ran my Be Cooling Aquastealth variable control just fine with this safety. Again the shurflo pump builds 20psi nearly instantly. With the variable control set at 7psi boost threshold to activate, there was no bogging or any other issue.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
Sorry for the delayed response, did not know there where messages in here.
Black_Bullet your going to notice a good power increase with 30/70 washer fluid mix. Giving numbers is kinda false advetising as ever car going to react to the water/meth injection.
You always want the nozzles to be after a maff sensor. It can harm the sensor. Most dsm go with the nozzle near the tb to go infront.
Yes if you have your maff before the bov and put the nozzles before the bov when they vent your water/meth will vent to. Just make sure your bov does not vent towards your exaust manifolds.
Hobbs switches are the most reliable part in the kit. , We have sold afew thousand of them and out of all of them have had 1 rma to us. Had another that that was not properly connected together so it was accurate. So 2 bad out of say 2000 or so. Pretty reliable.
Wondering if people can post a few pics of their alcohol injection installs, as the DevlsOwn instructions aren't amazing and it would be a huge help if I could see what needed to be done. I know there's a CoolingMist tutorial in the tech section but always nice to see different installations
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