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Retorquing Arp head bolts (nuts)

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Like take them out and put them back in? Because in that case, your answer would be NO. When you first put ARP studs in and torque them to spec, they stretch allowing for a better hold. Therefore, taking them out and putting them back in won't work.
 
brute said:
Like take them out and put them back in? Because in that case, your answer would be NO.

No he means like put a torque wrench on them and make sure they are still to spec.

This is not necessary, but yet some people still decide to do it without any ill consequences.

brute said:
When you first put ARP studs in and torque them to spec, they stretch allowing for a better hold. Therefore, taking them out and putting them back in won't work.

ARP studs should not stretch, and they are re-useable. Perhaps you are thinking of the stock 2g 4g63 head bolts that are torque to yield and stretch.
 
blackGSX2g said:
No he means like put a torque wrench on them and make sure they are still to spec.

This is not necessary, but yet some people still decide to do it without any ill consequences.



I started at 75ft lbs, they all turned about 1/12 of a turn. Then I set it to 85ft lbs, they turned about 1/4 turn. So maybe it was good I did it maybe it wasn't. If I blow the headgasket then it wasn't good.
 
If you followed arp torque to yield instruction there is no need to retorque the head bolts. Their instruction give you proper bolt stretch for the size studs that fit our cars. The only time a arp or any head bolts need to be retorque is if you a using a copper head gasket, the reason, it has a tendency after the first heat cycle to change a little bit therefore the head studs needs to the back off one by one and retorque to ensure the copper gasket will provide the seal that it should.
 
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