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Newbie Forum Beginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this section.

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Old 01-01-2008, 05:11 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Is this in anyway a performace mod?


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Old 02-06-2008, 09:34 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Crankscrapers

Wanted to know if any of you road racers ran crankscrapers to help keep the oil from frothing and the added benefit of improving horsepower by the "flinging" of the oil. I do not know much about them that is why I am asking. I am considering getting one for my 2g 7-bolt when I pull off the oil pan to do the gasket. Opinions?
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:44 AM   #93 (permalink)
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oil scrapper

hi im from the uk and i was also looking at this ive been told its not a bad item it keeps weight down to the center and then keeps it from moving all round it! ive also been told to get apr rod bolts at the same time as its the best option aparently? hopw this is ok was on the phone for an hour getting this info!
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:44 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Crank scrapers are worthless. If your crank is dipping into the oil far enough to make the oil "frothy" or is dipping into the oil at all then you have more problems that it can fix.


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Old 02-06-2008, 11:08 AM   #95 (permalink)
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How does the oil in the pan behave when you're cranking out 1+ Gs in the corners? Does it pool to one side, possibly allowing the crank to come in contact with the oil? Just thinking out loud.
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:45 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by asian312 View Post
How does the oil in the pan behave when you're cranking out 1+ Gs in the corners? Does it pool to one side, possibly allowing the crank to come in contact with the oil? Just thinking out loud.
Exactly... plus, oil doesn't only come from below. Oil from the crank journals and squirters adds to the rotating mass which can be reduced with a crankscraper.


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Old 02-06-2008, 03:24 PM   #97 (permalink)
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I've read about these and spoken to a bunch of folks regarding their benefits. I have one on order through Crankscrapers and believe that in a roadrace situation they will be beneficial. That being said I have no evidence or proof and do not plan on re-dynoing my car after it's install. The nice thing about the Ishihara scrapers is the Teflon option which I opted for. It's basically a zero clearance scraper...you can't get much better than that.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:43 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I've read about these and spoken to a bunch of folks regarding their benefits. I have one on order through Crankscrapers and believe that in a roadrace situation they will be beneficial. That being said I have no evidence or proof and do not plan on re-dynoing my car after it's install. The nice thing about the Ishihara scrapers is the Teflon option which I opted for. It's basically a zero clearance scraper...you can't get much better than that.
Why is the teflon better than a regular?
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:51 PM   #99 (permalink)
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* Our new Teflon® scrapers (patent pending) can safely contact rotating engine components. The closer you can run a scraper the more efficient it becomes. Typical safe clearances for standard scrapers run from .035" through .060" -- some more daring builders run them as close as .010" Teflon® scrapers can run in actual contact with the part, .000" clearance, but in reality the rotating assembly will bed or seat in the soft Teflon® and develop a running clearance of perhaps .001 to .005".
What is a crank scraper


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Old 02-06-2008, 04:01 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Just saw that, how would you "break nin" this teflon, just rotate the crank with the oil pan off so you can catch the teflon shavings? I would want to try running it when its gonna take some teflon off...
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:18 PM   #101 (permalink)
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They supply a blue dye that you apply to the crank/rod ends and rotate the assembly. You then use either a dremel or an exacto knife to begin clearancing the teflon piece where the blue dye made contact. When you get it close, you bolt everything up and run the car which will actually cause the rotating assembly to bed in the teflon. Pieces of teflon will come off and most likely get caught in your oil filter. It was recommended to brake in for I think 50 miles or so then change the oil. I haven't received the piece yet nor the instructions, this is going from a conversation had well over a month ago and I forget the details. I'll post more when I know more.
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