Crank Scraper crankshaft scraper [Merged 12-6]

[blue1]

Crank scrapers if made correctly will stop what they call "balls and strings" Which is the oil thrown around by the crank causing a handbrake effect on the crank it is worth horsepower if designed and constructed properly with a good sump system. More noticeable with dry sump or deep sump systems!

[fien4boost]

i have been a N/T guy all my life but am not entirely unfamiliar with turbos. i recently gave in and sold my 97 eclipse gs and purchased a 98 gsx. i had installed a crank scrapper (catches extra oil circulating) on my gs and it actually added 6hp at the flywheel which most would say "why bother?" well i believe every little bit matters especially since it only cost $15. my question is can i install one of these on my new turbo engine without any adverse side effects? or does that extra oil need to be circulating? ive asked this question in other forums that ive been to and they all say "why not? it worked before" with an uncertainty. i know 6hp may not be worth the trouble to ask around this much but id rather not install it hoping to inprove when really i may be hurting my engine. any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

[OverboostXS]

First off what is a crank scrapper? Secondly how does it make oil circulate so that it adds 6 hp?

[Tarantula]

WHAT??? What the hell is a crank scraper.??? Do you have a link to where you bought this or actual info on the product? Describe with detail what this thing is and maybe you can get educated answers...

[half-cocked]

2G's I believe have a windage tray, which is similiar.

For a good explaination, just google.

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/

[jott5555]

Hey, I put a scraper on my 90 tsi and notices a increase in rpm speed, because of the less amount of rotational mass ( make sence sry im tired) anyway umm i think mike johnson makes crank scrapers for our dsm's

i know 2g's have something of a windage tray already installed. as i havnt looked at it yet because i just aquired my gsx i dont know what mitsu's lame excuse of a windage tray is. but i think that removeing it and putting in a true crank scraper would help seeing as that the scraper is at ground zero (crank) and the windage tray would sit below it in the oil pan.

i say if u have the resources do a dyno run, get a reading, install the scraper, re dynorun. and we have the proof.

L8ter

[Defiant]

Hoping that you just want to scrape your crank, and not scrap it:

Crank Scraper crankshaft scraper [Merged 12-6]
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54497
Crank Scraper
crank scraper

[baxsom]

first you scrape it

your dont scrap it until after it walks

[gamingguru]

Crank scrappers are worth it espesially if you can get a deep sump oil pan. I haven't ever seen one for a 2g car though so I don't know if someone makes one for our cars or not. Just on a side not, in a recent article in mustang magazine they installed a morsco oil pan with a crank scrapper in a 4 valve 4.6L and picked up 25 or so horsepower just from reducing the parasitic drag that oil has on an engine.

[jott5555]

i dont think the power gain is 25 or so.. like i suggested i need to see a real life before and after dyno to get any real say on if it free's up any hp..

but with all the other bennifets it has ( keeping oil close to the pump, lowering the rotational mass of the crack ect..) it has to be worth it..

PICK WHEN U INSTALL PLEASE!!!

[fien4boost]

For those who didnt know what a crank scraper is and and a brief explanation why a dyno might not be the answer in measurment for this case- thank you all for your input.

A crank scraper is an extremely simple device that works to lessen this effect. It mechanically interferes with the suction action of the windage cloud and then helps to strip away the oil contained within that cloud. Oil collects on the surface of the scraper and then drips down into the sump. The scraper does not actually touch or "scrape" the spinning crank and connecting rods -- it only comes close to them.

A moving vehicle will benefit even more from a scraper! Yes, it seems a bit silly to have to say "a moving vehicle" but many people focus too much on dyno testing an engine that is not itself actually accelerating forward, turning and braking. The oil pool in a wet-sump engine is constantly sloshing around and will often come into direct physical contact with the crank and rods where it will be whipped up. The power loss here is even more significant -- there is also the significant danger that the oil pump pickup tube will be exposed to air and the bearings will contact their journals. In this situation the crank scraper will help to physically redirect the oil back into the pan Many autocrossers have commented that they desire the scraper principally for this effect. It is not uncommon for high horsepower cars to blow their engines while emerging from high G turns -- on exiting the turn power is increased and this is just the time when it is likely that the pickup is exposed and sucking air. -project56.com-

[fien4boost]

after searching for some time i found this guy in this forum with pictures of his crank scraper installed. only he had to alter it himself to make it fit.
go here to see it www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151866


Is a windage tray the same as a crank scraper?

No, a windage tray serves a different but related basic function. It is present to act as a physical barrier between the rotating assembly and the sump reservoir. A crank scraper actively removes excess oil and returns it to the sump. Some windage trays do have scraper technology built into them but even then a scraper will approach the moving parts much more closely.
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/index.html

[Kevin Johnson]

Dodge has a scraper as stock equipment on the SRT4 -- that's a modern turbocharged engine so that's worth noting. Nissan has at least seven different scraper devices on the VG30 DETT -- they are distributed through the pan. Nissan also put scraper devices on the SR20 DET. Turbocharged engines depend on efficient oil circulation for cooling as well as lubrication. The scraper facilitates more efficient cooling.

Originally Posted by fien4boost

i have been a N/T guy all my life but am not entirely unfamiliar with turbos. i recently gave in and sold my 97 eclipse gs and purchased a 98 gsx. i had installed a crank scrapper (catches extra oil circulating) on my gs and it actually added 6hp at the flywheel which most would say "why bother?" well i believe every little bit matters especially since it only cost $15. my question is can i install one of these on my new turbo engine without any adverse side effects? or does that extra oil need to be circulating? ive asked this question in other forums that ive been to and they all say "why not? it worked before" with an uncertainty. i know 6hp may not be worth the trouble to ask around this much but id rather not install it hoping to inprove when really i may be hurting my engine. any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

[jott5555]

kevin nice to talk to ya again, i gotta say man i was really impressed w. the unit i picked up from you. the only thing i had to do was modify it a bit to fit with the apr main studs. anyway i may need to get another one here soon for my 2g.

[STARION]

If you've ever heard of the GRM challenges, you might've heard about the Chevy Nova at the $2004 event. With a Naturally Aspirated 350 (No Nitrous), Andy hit a mid 10 at the challenge. This year, he had a classic Fiat there with a 350 in it, and hit a low 11, and that was with NO SECOND GEAR (3 spd auto). Building challenge cars the past coupe years, I've gotten to know him. He makes power the old fashioned way (A bit of a lost science) and goes to the trouble of making his own crank scraper, building his own headers (because he can get 30 hp over a set of "high-flow" aftermarket headers), etc..

A scraper is nothing new, it's a good fundamental mod, those little things add up.

[esi-slowboy]

Originally Posted by STARION

(A bit of a lost science) and goes to the trouble of making his own crank scraper,
A scraper is nothing new, it's a good fundamental mod, those little things add up.

Any info on how to make my own? ive been wanting to get one just dont want to dish 60$ for it

[Defiant]

Piece of cardboard, inverted engine with an assembled bottom-end, cut away the parts that touch and duplicate in sheet steel.

[Kevin Johnson]

Hi Defiant,

Styrene (.060 for example) works much better than cardboard -- I've tried both. That's what I did for the first few hundred patterns but now I just measure and use a CAD program. It's fairly cheap to buy a sheet of styrene from a plastic supply house even if you only use a tiny section of it. If you make a mistake in styrene just use some PVC pipe glue (also cheap) to add back or correct that section.

Make sure to use thick enough sheet steel because there is a lot of vibration.

A lot of the people I sell scrapers to have made their own before. You just have to judge what your time is worth plus the cost of materials.

Kind regards,

Kevin

Originally Posted by Defiant

Piece of cardboard, inverted engine with an assembled bottom-end, cut away the parts that touch and duplicate in sheet steel.

[DSM-ZERO]

I have one on my car
I thought it wasv going to leak but it dosent
it seems to be doing what it is soupose to do and it's cheap

[esi-slowboy]

What are some of the benefits?

· Less rotating mass for the engine to accelerate because of the removed oil

· Less loss of power because of excessive drag caused by the windage cloud
· Helps reduce engine damaging oil-foaming
· Helps avoid oil starvation by keeping the oil in the pan during hard braking and turning as well as during off-road driving
· Helps to cool critical engine parts by quickly returning heated oil to the sump
· Helps to prevent the cylinder walls from being overloaded with oil
· Can help with fuel efficiency



-

Parts needed
Crankscraper-35$
5qt oil and filter-30$
Blue RTV-4$
Clean rags and brake cleaner
-Side note the oil pan gasket is reuseable-

Tools
Sockets 10mm-19mm 6"and 3"extension
Socket wrench,torque wrench
2jack stands,wood chocks
Carb cleaner for rusty bolts

Make sure your engine is cool before you start
and disconnect negative battery terminal

Removal

-Step1:Prep

Raise car from the front end and place on jack stands then set up your choks behind rear wheels.Setup your work area tools, cup for bolts, gloves and some Rock Star,Red bull or beer if your of age and prepare to work for a couple hours.Also make sure you have 15+ hours of down time for the RTV to set.

-Step2rain oil

Drain oil into a container and stare down that oil pan !

-Step3:Remove downpipe

Remove exhaust manifold heat shielding should be 4 bolts;remove 2 nuts that connect downpipe to manifold(Spray with carb cleaner if they wont budge i also had to remove drivers side fan in order to use a breaker to loosen those nuts);Go 6inches down the
downpipe youll see 2 bolts mated to a bracket take those off and now your exhaust should
be free to move.

-Step4:Remove crossmember

Two bolts up front there on there tight 100ft/lbs and two bolts on the back of it.Also you have to remove the two the hold the front engine mount.Now get that member out of your way.Now go under the car youll see a bracket that mates the block to the tranny and bridges the oil pan remove that.Theres two bolts one is a 19mm on the tranny side which was stripped in my case i just bent it with vice grips in order to access two bolts on the oil pan.

-Step5: Removing the oil pan and clean

This is the quickest step theres -13 bolts- get those off and your set.Now wipe down the oil pan, gasket(which i should mention is reusuble) and crankscraper with some brake cleaner and rag.
All clean.. Next step

Install
Looks similiar to this



-Step6:Install Crankscraper, and oil pan

Grab some of that blue RTV you bought put a nice bead around the crankscraper(i used the gasket as a template to see what route to follow on the crankscraper its basically connect the dots on the holes).Mate the crankscraper to the block hold in position while screwin in the bolts let it sit like so.Give the crank a few rotations to check for clearences its crankscraper but its not supposed scrape your crank.
Then get your gasket put a bead around the bottom and mate to oil pan hold for a few minutes.Now put a bead on top of the gasket
By now 20 or so minutes have passed slide your pan under your ride as well as yourself
unscrew those bolts mated to the scraper, align pan under the scraper/block and bolt it up and wait 15+ hours

So it goes BLOCK -RTV- CRANKSCRAPER -RTV- GASKET -RTV- OIL PAN (bolts are 8.9ft/lbs)

-Step7:Refill oil

Refill your oil along with new filter.Bolt everything back up Take it for a little spin pull over and check for leaks if its all good you completed the install.