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engine knock

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99gstspyder69

Probationary Member
9
0
Mar 21, 2013
hollywood, Florida
I have a little issue with my motor. 1 year ago I built the engine with Wiseco pistons and Molnar rods with ACL race bearings. 6 months ago the oil pump went bad, and killed the main bearings and crankshaft. I replace the bearings with the same exact parts. a brand new OEM oil pump, an Eagle crankshaft, and Wiseco pistons rings. This took a few months to do because I had to save money. I finally get the car back on the road everything was beautiful. I have been babying it. shifting before 3000 rpm to let the Rings and The bearings break in. I have now put 170 miles on the car. when I'm driving and I shift at 300, I think I hear a rod bearing sound. the oil pump is working perfectly I had installed a gauge. About 25psi at idle and about 65psi when cruising. Does anybody have any input on this?
 
When the old oil pump died, and you killed the main bearings and crank.

How bad were the rod bearings?

The big end of the con rods may be out of round and not holding the new bearings with the proper crush.

If this is the case, rod knock would follow shortly.
 
Rod bearings were perfect. I changed those too. I had the block and rods checked at a machine shop. They told me everything was perfect and to put it back together.
 
What one says is perfect is not perfect unless fully inspected and installed properly. As your having a issue there for assuming something is wrong and sad to say none the less may need get tore into to check. Did u have any kinda clearance numbers or any kind of measurements when you went to throw it back together? Properly cleaning and I mean not just rinse and reuse I mean bust in and oil galley and all that can get contaminated. You won't know unless you get in there and see fosho whats all wrong. If u dont know what u looking for best is to find a reputable shop that knows these cars not just that cool mechanics shop down the street that people may or may not have said oh ya there a good mechanic. When u have an issue especially oil pump failure its best to break down and go over alot as it will cause oil starvation to many many parts and cause problems. You dont just wanna clean and slap on saying oh ya its good. Blue prings to an engine that is anything beyond stocker slap in will need some looking into. I hope this basic personal advice will give u a better mind set when you pay or put a motor together. I know its not free or cheap something you dont wanna over look and pay twice for is an engine. Best of luck and dont be afraid to ask for help before adventuring into projects like this theres tons of help and info out there for you. glhf. :)
 
A friend of mine did all the measuring. He knows what he's doing he worked for Russ racing engines here in Hollywood. I did the actual assembly. the guy who helped me is now in Japan in the Marines, so I can't even ask for his help. The motor was cleaned thoroughly before it went back together. Is there anything I could try before ripping it apart. I mean that it only does this when its hot. I drove to work this morning and nothing but after work it made the noise. The noise only happens under a load and not sitting in the driveway. In my driveway I can rev it, you don't hear anything. Why? This dosent make sence.
 
What weight oil? What kind of oil?

Did you do a BSE?
 
I'm using an Eagle brand crankshaft. I'm hearing lots of stories about Eagle cranks and DSMs. Eagle crankshaft s are made for the 1 piece main bearing and thrust washer combo and not the 3 piece. This causes crankwalk. This is how I was explained, unless I heard wrong. Anyone else here of this? 3 people told me this.
 
I think the next question would be the one that bogus asked. Do you still have the balance shafts in or did you eliminate them?
 
I'm using an Eagle brand crankshaft. I'm hearing lots of stories about Eagle cranks and DSMs. Eagle crankshaft s are made for the 1 piece main bearing and thrust washer combo and not the 3 piece. This causes crankwalk. This is how I was explained, unless I heard wrong. Anyone else here of this? 3 people told me this.



7 bolt crank is a 7 bolt crank, it matters not if it runs in a saddle bearing or a split thrust.

Oil weight, block and crank prep, clutch and drive style and girdle alignment are the main concerns with most 7 bolt crank walk issues.

Funny how most domestics along with 6 bolts all run a saddle beating thrust and do not suffer from crank walk near as often as the saddle bearing 7 bolt.
 
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