Idle issues and electronics questions

[bigdnno98]

I have a 6 bolt swapped 99 GSX I bought a couple of months ago. I drove it 45 minutes home when I bought it. It ran pretty decent. I did a couple mods once I got it home including upgrading from link 2.5 to v3, SD conversion and new FIC1120 injectors. The car now is sparatically blowing the 30A engine fuse and also seems to have some kind of fuel or spark issue. When I was troubleshooting the blown fuse a friend saw a spark from where the igniter is mounted and the 2&3 injector. I'm pretty sure that's not the stock location for the igniter. I pulled all the injector plugs and the igniter plug the next day to make sure the were all correct and secure. The car quit blowing fuses but still couldn't get it to idle correctly with link. It would eventually go lean and die. I has to give it tons more global fuel than it needed to keep it idling. This morning I pulled the injector plugs to test the injectors. They all had exactly 1.9 ohms resistance. So either they're all bad which is unlikely or they're all good. We'll this afternoon I tried messing with it again and bam. Blown fuse. I'm very sure the blown fuse is related to the inability to get it to idle but I have in idea why. Should the igniter bracket be grounded? I'm really out of ideas.

 

[BogusSVO]

Sorry about your issue.

A descriptive thread title would help you more than the title you chose. Members that may have had a similar issue may not read your post.

Also it states in the rules that you agreed to when you joined that a descriptive title would be used.

 

[DSM Phantom]

Sounds like power is being robbed and arching out i would check all the wiring if anything is frayed and hits grounded steel it would pop a fuse
Was the car stored outside or in a garaged after u bought it?
Also yes the coil pack if thats what u mean by igniter has to be grounded
If u have any spark jumping or comming out of the coil pack, wires or boots that attatch to the spark plug they need to be replaced and would cause a lean condition on one or multiple cylinders.

And yes SVO is rite if u follow guidelines when posting u are more likley to get responses
I answered ### i am guilty of it myself sometimes

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Coilpack must be grounded to the firewall also it should be bolted to something easiest way the intake manifold.

 

[DSM Phantom]

If it ran before i would check any wiring u touched while adding upgrades u would be amazed on what i have found in DSM cars
(Could be something somebody else did that you joged loose or made fail)

 

[bigdnno98]

Sorry about the title. I've pulled the complete interior out so there is nothing left in there to be causing issues. Only thing I did to the car was:
Replace alternator
Convert to SD
Switch from IWG to EWG including new DP
Replace injectors

The "igniter" I'm referring to is currently mounted next to the coil packs. To the left. Right between injectors 2&3. I'm pretty sure that's not the oem location for this large connector.

Sounds like power is being robbed and arching out i would check all the wiring if anything is frayed and hits grounded steel it would pop a fuse
Was the car stored outside or in a garaged after u bought it?
Also yes the coil pack if thats what u mean by igniter has to be grounded
If u have any spark jumping or comming out of the coil pack, wires or boots that attatch to the spark plug they need to be replaced and would cause a lean condition on one or multiple cylinders.

And yes SVO is rite if u follow guidelines when posting u are more likley to get responses
I answered ### i am guilty of it myself sometimes

Car was stored outside. I replaced plugs and wires this morning.

 

[GoodbyeSTI]

Have you checked your ISC? Or played with the tps offset with link?

 

[bigdnno98]

Yes. Tps and Isc are good. I'm pretty sure that plug is arcing out on the fuel rail. My injectors ohmed out at 1.9o but te sheet says 3o. I wonder if I've ruined all 4 injectors? I'll find out soon

I fixed the fuse blowing by bolting the coil pack directly to the IM and moving the plug I was talking about, away from the fuel rail and bolting it to the IM. The car still has a fuel delivery issue though. I've had to add too much dead time to keep it idling. I'm gonna do some more troubleshooting after work today.

 

[bigdnno98]

I think it was exhaust leaks causing the problem. I should have it back together this afternoon to find out. Cars been smoking more and more too. There was a lot of oil in the exhaust. I'm running the oil feed off of the OFH with no restrictor. When I say been I only mean for a few minutes of idling. I ordered a restrictor and for now put a ball valve inline with a gauge so I can regulate oil flow to the turbo to see if that's the issue. Previous owner did have issues blowing turbo seals on this car. We'll see this afternoon.

 

[bigdnno98]

Ok so...... I got my combinedFT to +\-2% in link and airflow per rev to .25-.26. (I'm sd) I had to move my dead time all the way to 800 though. WB is reading 14.7-15.0 at idle. Is that a crazy high dead time indicating an issue? Or does that happen sometimes? I'm gonna go get a cruise log tomorrow or Monday.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

Ok so...... I got my combinedFT to +\-2% in link and airflow per rev to .25-.26. (I'm sd) I had to move my dead time all the way to 800 though. WB is reading 14.7-15.0 at idle. Is that a crazy high dead time indicating an issue? Or does that happen sometimes? I'm gonna go get a cruise log tomorrow or Monday.

Hi,

The fic 1120's are a bi*** to idle. Adding a lot of deadtime is normal for them. Did you get the data match sheet with the injectors?? I had fic 1120's, I had terrible luck getting them to idle without going lean and misfiring. Not only do you need to tweak the deadtime, But individual deatimes need changing as well, But almost impossible to do without an injector rig.

As for the smoke at idle, what turbo are you running and how big is the drain? Do you have a proper PCV system implemented?

If the drain is too small you will burn oil, And if the PCV isn't right your turbo's oil drain will have crankcase pressure trying to push up into the turbo.

Also, which 30 amp fuse is blowing? I have ran both the igniter and coils ziptied to stuff under the hood for testing purposes and never had issues.

 

[bigdnno98]

Thanks for your input BIRDCLAWTSi. I figured out the smoking problem. I put a pressure gauge and ball valve in the turbo line to see if I reduced the oil pressure would the smoking issue stop. It did so I ordered an in,ine restrictor. I fixed the fuse blowing by securing mounting the igniter and coil packs to the IM. Previous owner had some janky setup on it.

I have a custom drain line that looks pretty large. Like -10ish. I may take it off and check it out though