New to the DSM crowd, having a few issues off the bat.

[DJ Robu5t]

Hey everyone, I recently bought a 97 GSX with a built 1G motor swap from what I was told. I tried to update everything that I was told was done to it into the info as I've seen that among the threads. I've tried researching my issue and none of the threads are quite hitting it on the head.

The car supposedly has Brian Cower 272/272 cams, 650cc Fuel Injector Clinic injectors, eagle rods, Wiesco .30 forged pistons, and a evo iii turbo. Anyways, when I start the car it will idle around 1,000-1,200 while it's warming up. During this time the Brake light, Check engine light, and Battery light all remain on, the check engine light is always on, and the brake and battery light seem to go off once the car is warm. When those lights go off and the car is warm idle drops to a fluctuation between 400-700 rpm it's a very rough idle and about every 20 seconds it seems like it wants to stall out then it will go back to 600-700 rpms for a few seconds etc. Also I have a A/F guage, when in gear it's between 12-14 depending on speeds and gear etc. At idle it ranges from 16.5ish - 3 lines (guessing that means 18-20)

The bigger issue now is that the car is actually dying (stalling out) if I'm driving and put it in neutral (manual), the rpms just drop down to 0 and the lights come on (have to restart and it restarts perfectly fine)

I have seen a few threads about this type of stuff, but the engine dying when coasting usually associates with idle surge or a good idle on most of these threads, mine has a bad idle. I was thinking the idle could be from the injectors and cams and not being tuned? Not too sure about these cars as I was previously a domestic v8 guy with a built mustang gt. *Welcome to the dark side haha*

 

[Pipnorcali]

Any vacuum leaks I would start with a boost leak test blt and go from there

do you have any tunning devices? Dsmlink, safc etc..

 

[crash89]

A lot of your issues are most likely due to the large injectors with no tuning solution. Along with a BOV that is vented and/or another boost leak. Im amazed the car even starts and runs with the 650s and nothing to tune it. Get yourself some stock injectors, and boost leak test the car. That should take care of most of your issues. Heres a link for a blt if you dont know how, How To: Boost leak tester for $5.02 - evolutionm.net

Have you checked the brake fluid level? Perhaps thats the reason your light is on.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

The guy said he has ecu plus in there, and there is a usb cord coming out of the driver side of the center console, downloaded ecu plus and it throws some error code saying it can't connect with com 1 or something. I was figuring it could be a mix of the big injectors and a small vacuum or boost leak. Car is overcompensating and since the injectors are bigger, it's really overcompensating.

I should have said this in the first post sorry but the bov is recirculated. I know that makes a huge difference with this issue. Also brake fluid and power steering are good, changed the oil and all drive train fluids. Also changed front rotors and brakes.

He does have the ecu plus in their I can see the silver box, about to take the driver side console trim off and see what it looks like, I'd like to get that working at least for the mean time til I get a dsm link. I just wanted advice to see if its a tuning issue or an actual mechanical issue with the car that I need to worry about. Thank you for the fast responses guys!

 

[zedicus]

you need to go into device manager and see what com port it is showing up on. then change the settings to match.

ecu+ = usb and laptop connected SAFC basically

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Still not working tried updating the device driver for it as well. Guessing the serial to usb that he had in it isn't compatible with any of the new windows.. so looks like I'll be getting a new serial to usb. On a side note I reset my ecu today and it's no longer stalling and tries to keep a more consistent idle, but will eventually start fighting to stay alive again after about 30 seconds of idleing at a light.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Alright so I pulled out my old 2 core xp and finally got it to connect. It seems like it was already set up... but how do I know if the tune was on? Anyways, now I can get in and I only know what I'm doing partially at best, I have a wideband and know that my car wants to lean out at idle 17+, crusing is usually 14-16 then it goes to 11-12 when i left off the gas in gear. It was already set up for 450/650 injector scaling and the CAS was set to pre 95 already, (which I was hoping I'd be able to put in so it no longer misfires), but again I have no way of knowing if all of this was actually in place or just a saved setting..

I'm beginning to think and fear that it may not be a lack of tune causing all of this, I did however notice today while poking around two sensors that were unplugged, the power transistor unit and the MAP sensor.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Brake and battery light means that the alternator is on its way out. Not sure if the other light added means its a different issue, but if the check engine light is always on, it's probably a separate issue. Can you find out what the code it's throwing is?

For the low idle and stalling, do a boost leak test. Then, remove the ISC and see if it is:
a) working [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7R3gf7SiAo&list=UUUUuGdILVsVOdtygQVj6haQ&index=11&feature=plcp]DSM ISC - YouTube[/ame]

b) doesn't have any water inside of it if it isn't working

If it is working, adjust the BISS.

I would also pull the spark plugs and check to see if its actually a built engine.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Well, never had the time to put together a boost leak tester but got it tuned enough for it to run pretty good, and idle good. It has still been throwing misfire codes occasionally and will do it everyonce in a while (a lot less often though). A new performance shop opened up near me and I decided to take it down today to have them look over it and what do you know. It starts backfiring today, I started it up and the tach jumped around for a few seconds, then it back fired in second gear, this happened twice on the trip there. Now it's at the shop and I'm having them go over everything, boost leak test, sensors, etc.

On a side note, where does the power transistor unit go on a 4g63 6 bolt? It's just dangling on top of the head with a bunch of wires in the harness, pretty sure that may be important!

 

[DogWhistle]

Brake and battery light means that the alternator is on its way out.

^+1 on this. Replace the alternator now, or you will be chasing electrical gremlins for a long time. Don't forget: sensors need the proper voltage to work correctly. If they are getting fluctuating voltage, their performance will not be consistent. You can't effectively tune an inconsistent engine.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Figured that was a huge part of it, ordering one tomorrow, putting it on Thursday when it comes out of the shop, maybe I'll have them do it if the don't charge too much, looks like a pain on these cars . I still feel like the power transistor unit just laying on top of the engine can't be good..

 

[DogWhistle]

Glad to hear you're doing the alternator.

No, it's not good to have the power transistor flopping on top of the engine. The PO probably lost the special screws that hold it to the intake manifold. These screws have a very fine thread.

If you have a friend who has the correct ones, pull one and match it up at the hardware store. If not, you'l most likely have to go to the dealer. I can't thick of another screw on the car that uses the same thread.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

It's currently in the shop, so far they have found 10+ boost leaks, and 5+ cracked vacuum lines. I'm amazed it's even been running.. I'm going to need a new J pipe (trying to look for one) and have ordered an alternator. Where on the intake manifold does the Power Transistor mount to?

 

[MitsuEclipse98]

i just got myself a 98 eclipse gs on 4/20/2014. I noticed when i put clutch in that my rpms drop pretty low but then pick back up to 700-900 rpms. Other than that the car is in great condition. my engine compressions are at 210. Clean rebuilt motor! i made myself a shopping list of performance parts, but have a few questions about the 420A motor, which i have. Question : Can i fit a 20g turbo on a 420A motor? i have read that people are doing it on this forum, but according to website i am ordering parts from it says it fits a 95-99' 2nd Gen. 4G63/ 4G63T motor?

 

[92awddsm]

It's currently in the shop, so far they have found 10+ boost leaks, and 5+ cracked vacuum lines. I'm amazed it's even been running.. I'm going to need a new J pipe (trying to look for one) and have ordered an alternator. Where on the intake manifold does the Power Transistor mount to?

The power transistor normally bolts to the front of the 2g intake manifold. It bolts to the driver side of the intake manifold on the 1g motor. Since you have a swap, you can either secure it in its current location with zip ties or extend the wiring to put it I the stock 1g location. The 6bolt intakeddoesn't have provisions to bolt it to the front in the stock 2g location.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

So it just needs to be grounded correct? Got a boost gauge put in while all of this work was being done. They started it up and took it for a drive to see how it's running and said it's perfect while out of boost now, when it spooled it got up to 30 psi. Damn I wouldn't think it would be set that high, so now we're on to the back firing at boost issue, which we all came to the agreement it is most likely the coil packs (so getting coil packs, an alternator, and a j pipe put on within the next week) In the mean time, turning down the boost, guessing you just turn the knob on the manual boost controller to the right?

i just got myself a 98 eclipse gs on 4/20/2014. I noticed when i put clutch in that my rpms drop pretty low but then pick back up to 700-900 rpms. Other than that the car is in great condition. my engine compressions are at 210. Clean rebuilt motor! i made myself a shopping list of performance parts, but have a few questions about the 420A motor, which i have. Question : Can i fit a 20g turbo on a 420A motor? i have read that people are doing it on this forum, but according to website i am ordering parts from it says it fits a 95-99' 2nd Gen. 4G63/ 4G63T motor?

Sorry man don't know too much about the 420A, barely know enough about the 4g63 I have in mine . I'd suggest doing some research and then opening up your own thread about it.

 

[92awddsm]

No, the transistor doesn't need to be grounde. It has its own iinternal ground circuit.
As for the backfiring, are you sure it's not fuel cut? Lower the boost and see how it runs. It don't know what boost controller you have but most of them lower boost when you turn the knob counter clockwise.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Just an update, got the car back this afternoon. Whole different car, I can't believe the difference, it revs fine now, no bucking, stuttering, backfiring etc. It sounds great, and runs great now, ordered a J pipe and getting an alternator.

They tried turning the manual boost controller down but it did nothing, they took a look at the waste-gate and believe that's the culprit now. The car will run fine all the way up to about 10-12 psi then it just shoots up to 30 and stutters (probably not enough spark at the point), so looks like I'll be replacing the coil packs and then the waste-gate, anyone know anything about the waste gates on the 16g?

 

[92awddsm]

Did they take the MBC off all together and try that?

Disconnect the actuator from the arm and make sure the wg itself moves freely

 

[bryanwheat]

Did they actually test the wastegate? It is very simple to do. Add pressure, does the arm move, if it moves than it is good. Why in the world did they give it back to you if it is spiking to 30 psi? Remove the manual boost controller and connect the boost source line directly to the wastegate. Don't touch the coil pack at this point. From what you have stated it doesn't apprear that anything is wrong with it. What it sounds like is that you are spiking and overrunning the maf which is causing fuel cut.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Yes and they applied pressure to it and it barely moved. In the mean time I'll do like you said and remove the mbc and attach the line to the wastegate, I'm not pushing it over 10psi anyways and haven't seen anywhere above that since I left the shop. It's running a ton better though it's crazy, didn't know these cars could feel like this haha

 

[92awddsm]

Do like I said and disconnect the actuator from the wg arm. See if the wg itself is binding up or if the problem is the actuator.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Followed your advice and removed the manual boost controller, attached the vacuum line from the j pipe directly to the waste-gate now. I moved the actuator arm with my hand and it was pretty difficult to move, a lot more difficult than I would imagine..? Car also bucked and backfired on the way to my parents house today (first time since getting it back from the shop) this was before removing the mbc. I wasn't in boost or at least very low boost when this happened, seems to happen before 2.5-3k rpms no way that could be fuel cut? It seems to buck for 2 seconds, then it will sound like it stalled for a split second then bam backfire and go one it's way.

Also regapped the spark plugs to the correct gap, they were off a good bit. No bucking or stalling on the way home, can't say if I'm good or it was just a lucky run. Long way to go with this car.. also while poking around today saw I had two radiators...? one against the fan and one in between that radiator and the intercooler? Maybe that's normal and I'm still getting used to boosted cars .

Also threw P1150 today fuel pressure solenoid, could I be getting irregular fuel pressure, guy I bought it from said there's a walbro 255 in it. Sorry for the essay and multiple questions.

 

[Firsts tuner]

Hey man congrats on joining the dsm world. I haven't been on here in forever but I think I can answer a couple of your questions. First thing is that "second radiator". It's your condenser for the air conditioning. Secondly I see you said you have a wally225. If you know this for sure, do you have an afpr? Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If not you may be overrunning the stock system. now about the fuel pressure solenoid code. The only way that solenoid throws a code is if its unplugged or has suffered an internal failure. Did you check your wastegate with the actuator disconnected? If not then yes it will be hard to move. If you did disconnect the arm and its still hard to move then it may be just carboned up. One last thing, if the e3 16g you have is an eBay turbo then most likely the wastegate hole is too small and allowing the boost to climb uncontrolled. I'm dealing with that issue myself. I used an eBay hotside on my 14b without thinking. The hole on it is actually smaller than the original 14b. There's some good videos on YouTube addressing this issue. Good luck with it man, sounds like you're on the right path.

 

[DJ Robu5t]

Thanks! and I feel so stupid... I should have known that, wasn't even thinking about the ac, since it's not hooked up, no pulley. Wow.. I do have an afpr that the guy gave me, getting that put on when I go back to the shop for the J pipe they ordered. Guessing that might have a bit to do with it with such a big pump, that would make sense about the code too. Also, it's a real evo iii I've checked the serials and part numbers etc, that was my first concern