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05-10-2006, 05:19 PM
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#511 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Well the thing is i dont have the tools or the kowledge to do either the 6bolt swap or build the 7bolt, so a shop has to do it for me and I'll have $3000-3500 to work with so with that budget in mind what would be a better choice. I also plan in swaping to a bigger turbocharger in the future but don't want to run into problems when I do.
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05-10-2006, 06:44 PM
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#512 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: white hall, Arkansas
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2005
Posts: 375
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O.k.....on your first post, you said your engine did what exactly?
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05-10-2006, 07:21 PM
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#513 (permalink)
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New Member
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2006
Posts: 132
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I earlier said to go with a 6 bolt. If I was in your situation, thats still what I would do.
However, because you are on a budget the 7 bolt might be the better choice (for you). If your 7 bolt hasn't walked after 180,xxxx miles, you might as well stick with it. Generally, I would never suggest rebuilding a 7 bolt... especially if the reason for the rebuild is crank walk. But seeing as how your engine troubles are non-crank-walk related and you are on a budget, rebuilding the 7 bolt seems the most logical choice.
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05-10-2006, 07:22 PM
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#514 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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I don't know if it walked or just blew.Basicily as I was driving to work it felt like the clutch was starting to slip under a light load it did it in 2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th but i figured the clutch was starting to go out since it was a stock clutch, and i just babied it the rest of the way to work, no biggie. On my lunch break I went out to go to lunch and tried to start it and nothing, but while trying to turn it over I could here a faint buzzing noise(like an electric motor trying to turn but not being able to). I went to have it towed the next day and as I pushed it back there was a puddle of oil from underneith the car, and the area where the tranny connects to the block looked like it had been dripping oil and my d/p had caked on oil. When I got home and opened the garadge I noticed a puddle of oil on the floor where the car was sitting before I went to work, and it looked like as I had backed the car out the day before that it was leaking bad since there was a steady stream of oil that ran out the garadge and down the driveway from when I backed out the day before. (I have come to the conclusion that i locked the motor up because I'm not even able to rotate the crank with breaker bar.
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05-10-2006, 07:32 PM
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#515 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Moreno Valley, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Jan 2005
Posts: 266
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Yeah 7 bolts walk... so what. If you build it then most of the parts are aftermarket and its much less likely to walk. So build it. a built 7 bolt I would take over a stock 6 bolt anyday. #### it they are both 4G's and can produce power. IMO its a car. Build it, make it fast, smoke some people and call it a day. A friend of mine around town has a 500+ awhp eclipse and drives it like 150 miles a week and hasnt had a problem for 2 yearz. Do what suits you and you shouldnt be dissapointed. my .02 cents.
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05-10-2006, 08:22 PM
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#516 (permalink)
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New Member
From: Woodward, Iowa
Registered: Dec 2005
Posts: 31
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how many cases of 6-bolt crankwall have there been? many if any?
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05-10-2006, 08:49 PM
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#517 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Sep 2004
Posts: 409
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Very very few. Most are due to assembly error. I still stand by saying I'd never build a 7-bolt. Many engine builders won't even touch them anymore, especially if they usually offer warranties. I happen to be a victim of crankwalk, so I think I've got plenty of room to bitch about them.
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05-10-2006, 09:36 PM
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#518 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by knighteclipse1
O.k.....on your first post, you said your engine did what exactly?
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I posted the answer already but never got a clear answer so I'm asking it again.
I don't know if it walked or just blew.Basicily as I was driving to work it felt like the clutch was starting to slip under a light load it did it in 2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th but i figured the clutch was starting to go out since it was a stock clutch, and i just babied it the rest of the way to work, no biggie. On my lunch break I went out to go to lunch and tried to start it and nothing, but while trying to turn it over I could here a faint buzzing noise(like an electric motor trying to turn but not being able to). I went to have it towed the next day and as I pushed it back there was a puddle of oil from underneith the car, and the area where the tranny connects to the block looked like it had been dripping oil and my d/p had caked on oil. When I got home and opened the garadge I noticed a puddle of oil on the floor where the car was sitting before I went to work, and it looked like as I had backed the car out the day before that it was leaking bad since there was a steady stream of oil that ran out the garadge and down the driveway from when I backed out the day before. (I have come to the conclusion that i locked the motor up because I'm not even able to rotate the crank with breaker bar.
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05-10-2006, 10:19 PM
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#519 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Greenville, North Carolina
Region: Southeast
Registered: Nov 2005
Posts: 626
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by 98evoIIIpwr
Yeah 7 bolts walk... so what. If you build it then most of the parts are aftermarket and its much less likely to walk. So build it. a built 7 bolt I would take over a stock 6 bolt anyday. #### it they are both 4G's and can produce power. IMO its a car. Build it, make it fast, smoke some people and call it a day. A friend of mine around town has a 500+ awhp eclipse and drives it like 150 miles a week and hasnt had a problem for 2 yearz. Do what suits you and you shouldnt be dissapointed. my .02 cents.
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No. No one knows what causes crankwalk. Usually, when rebuilding a motor, you replace the oil pickup, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, pumps, lifters (with nonticking), and various other aftermarket products. The top theories in crankwalk deal nothing with these parts. Really, the only part to prevent (only somewhat at that) is the clutch saftey switch removal, which helps your throwing out bearing.
Yes, a built 7 bolt would own a stock 6...however a built 7 bolt with no crank will only give you a 3000 dollar bill for an engine swap anyways. Might as well have the 6 bolt swap and then build.
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05-10-2006, 11:22 PM
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#520 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ilikespeeding
No. No one knows what causes crankwalk. Usually, when rebuilding a motor, you replace the oil pickup, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, pumps, lifters (with nonticking), and various other aftermarket products. The top theories in crankwalk deal nothing with these parts. Really, the only part to prevent (only somewhat at that) is the clutch saftey switch removal, which helps your throwing out bearing.
Yes, a built 7 bolt would own a stock 6...however a built 7 bolt with no crank will only give you a 3000 dollar bill for an engine swap anyways. Might as well have the 6 bolt swap and then build.
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so as long as i dont have crank walk and get a new or reman crank with pistons and rods i should be ok with the 7bolt
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05-11-2006, 06:11 AM
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#521 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,037
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You can look at it this way as well if you wish. Both 6 and 7 bolt motors have been proven to make decent power on stock internals that debate is pretty well sqwashed. 99%of the guys on here will never need a built motor.
Secondly look at it like I did, there is a possibility of CW in any motor but the 7 bolt has had a larger failier rate. My 7 bolt did CW with an automatic transmission and also DsmJim's 7 bolt CWed but after a couple seasons of abuse at the track. We both basically blew our motors at the same time and both bought jdm 6bolts at the same time. He decided to build his motor for more abuse at the track and I just wanted a cheap daily driver engine to beat on.
I installed mine and started beating on it and his went out for rebuild we both paid 1500 bucks canadian for our motors drop in condition and running.
Now my question is to the guys debating if you don't need a built motor how can you turn down 1500 bucks for a motor? Its impossible to do. I since bought another 6 bolt and built it this one in running condition I have over 4000 into it now. My original 6 bolt is still running strong and I won't change it out unless it blows now. So really I could have a couple more 6bolts as dropins just for the cost of building the one engine. Doesn't make sense at all to me I would rather blow em up and drop in another one then spend money on a built motor ever again.
____________________________
~Jamie~
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05-11-2006, 12:57 PM
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#522 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: white hall, Arkansas
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2005
Posts: 375
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^^^Statements like that let us all know why your a wiseman! Well said!
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05-11-2006, 01:17 PM
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#523 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hellotbone
You can look at it this way as well if you wish. Both 6 and 7 bolt motors have been proven to make decent power on stock internals that debate is pretty well sqwashed. 99%of the guys on here will never need a built motor.
Secondly look at it like I did, there is a possibility of CW in any motor but the 7 bolt has had a larger failier rate. My 7 bolt did CW with an automatic transmission and also DsmJim's 7 bolt CWed but after a couple seasons of abuse at the track. We both basically blew our motors at the same time and both bought jdm 6bolts at the same time. He decided to build his motor for more abuse at the track and I just wanted a cheap daily driver engine to beat on.
I installed mine and started beating on it and his went out for rebuild we both paid 1500 bucks canadian for our motors drop in condition and running.
Now my question is to the guys debating if you don't need a built motor how can you turn down 1500 bucks for a motor? Its impossible to do. I since bought another 6 bolt and built it this one in running condition I have over 4000 into it now. My original 6 bolt is still running strong and I won't change it out unless it blows now. So really I could have a couple more 6bolts as dropins just for the cost of building the one engine. Doesn't make sense at all to me I would rather blow em up and drop in another one then spend money on a built motor ever again.
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So your saying to just get a stock 6bolt and be done with it
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05-11-2006, 02:13 PM
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#524 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,037
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Its ultimately your choice, I cannot make up your mind for you only give you my experiences with the different engines. Myself personally with my feelings is that I would never use a 7 bolt engine to do a build up. If its in the car and running beat the crap out of it for all its worth. If it blows I would be swapping in a 6bolt. That is exactly what I did had 7 bolts beat the crap out of it now I have 6 
____________________________
~Jamie~
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05-11-2006, 02:46 PM
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#525 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Ok I guess a 6 bolt it is then sinceI dont plan on having more than 400-450whp. A stock 6bolt will be fine.
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05-11-2006, 03:32 PM
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#526 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Sep 2004
Posts: 409
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Gee, I say basically the same thing as him, and get dismissed...wonderful place, this.
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05-11-2006, 07:42 PM
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#527 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by keymaster
Gee, I say basically the same thing as him, and get dismissed...wonderful place, this.
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I hope your not talking about my comment. If you are its nto his comment that enabled me to decide but everyones comments
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05-12-2006, 12:46 AM
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#528 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Region: Southwest
Registered: Sep 2004
Posts: 409
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No, I was talking about hellotbone's comment.
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05-12-2006, 01:06 AM
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#529 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: tulsa, Oklahoma
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
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Ok never min in that case.
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05-12-2006, 11:40 AM
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#530 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 37
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by guamspyder
i own a 2.4 spyder is my block good or is it better to swap the motor for a 4g63 or rebuild my motor with after market pistons,rods and swap the head for a twin cam???
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I have a 1997 2.4 spyder as well. Can someone answer this question?
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05-19-2006, 07:06 PM
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#531 (permalink)
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New Member
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Region: Midwest
Registered: Mar 2006
Posts: 6
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6 or 7 bolt?
Do I have a 6 or 7 bolt engine in my car? It was built in April of 92... or is there other way to tell besides pulling the tranny and clucth?
Thanks
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