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neutral safety switch bypass.

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Boostinsideways

Banned Member
1,644
13
Feb 4, 2011
Arab, Alabama
I have tryed jumpering the wires as you it tells you to do in many topics.

Its not working at all. No power to the starter. Does the Neutral safety switch actually have to be connected to the harness? I didn't pull it off the car I got this harness from.

I am trying to get this 96 auto harness to work in a 95 5-speed.
 
Really wish people wouldn't shit in my thread. There is no button to depress. I dont have a neutral saftey switch, I have a manual car, I am ####ing using a automatic harness in it. Due to the way the harness is wired you have to complete the NSS circuit for the starter to get power.

Can't figure out why its not.
 
The auto start relay works just the opposite of the manual one. Just remove that relay and jumper the black-red wire to the black-yellow (which is what the relay does). If that doesn't work, your problem is elsewhere (eg. bad wiring, ignition start switch, weak battery, or starter).
Does the starter relay click?
 
My question to you is, your 96 was automatic and you installed a 5spd. Now which Black and red did you jump. I am in the same situation, same car. I have 4 wires, Black red thick wire, black yellow thin, black yellow thick and red and black. Which ones get the bypass working, connecting the black red to thin black yellow or thick black yellow? Can someone advise me? would really appreciate the info!!!!!!!!
 
Last I checked if you are a 5 speed car just unplug the switch on the clutch pedal and your done with it.... automatics don't have a button because its auto....the 5 speed cars have a switch which is a button over the clutch pedal
 
My question to you is, your 96 was automatic and you installed a 5spd. Now which Black and red did you jump. I am in the same situation, same car. I have 4 wires, Black red thick wire, black yellow thin, black yellow thick and red and black. Which ones get the bypass working, connecting the black red to thin black yellow or thick black yellow? Can someone advise me? would really appreciate the info!!!!!!!!
It depends on whether you are using an AT harness (for your now MT) and whether that harness was for turbo or NT. From the colors it sounds like you have a NT AT harness. In that case, you must leave the relay in and connect the black-yellow thin wire to ground. The relay will then activate with key start position providing power to the starter solenoid.
 
I wanted to share this info and wake up this topic. I found wire diagrams on Mitsubishi automatic transmissions, witch will be perfect to know what wire is witch on the NSS.
http://www.atdsm.com/tech.html

The only thing is, what is the true way to bypass the NSS because, a lot of topics say different things. I have a 96 Eagle Talon awd tsi, that I did the AT to MT swap on. I found the way to wire the reverse lights to come on when I shift to reverse. I am having issues with starting my car it clicks and takes a few turns of the key to finally start the car. So any info will help, Thank you in advance.
 
Pin 91 on 2G ECU. From diagrams it looks like that one pin is "responsible" for not allowing the car to start in gear.

Measure TCU's output to that pin and see how it changes going in/out of N. Then trick ECU into thinking that tranny is always in N by either jumping power to that pin, or grounding it, depending on what TCU does.
 
Don't see why not. Shouldn't matter for ECU if there is another computer that works that pin, or a switch, or it's permanently grounded/powered.

Since neither of us knows how it's triggered, i'd suggest waiting for more replies before poking it with +12V and potentially burning something up.
 
This is what I got so far.
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The only thing I have not figure out what is 8,6, and 5 are. 7 is black so that must be ground. I still haven't messed with pin 91 on the ECU.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Part of the problem of switching from AT to MT is in the starter relay operation. The AT energizes the starter relay closing the relay contacts to the starter. The MT has the relay contacts already closed (completed circuit to starter) and only energizes (opens the contacts) to DISABLE the starter when either the alarm or clutch position switch is activated. The MT uses relay pin 4 for the contacts (to starter) while the AT uses pin 5. This (along with the clutch position switch vs the NSS wiring) is how the harnesses are different. The easiest thing to do is just remove the starter relay and jumper the black/red wire pin to the black/yellow pin (which is what the relay does) and be done with it (unless you really need the alarm and clutch position switch disabling the starter).

BTW, ECU pin 91 is harness grounded in the MT. In the AT, pin 91 is used to tell if its in P or N when not cranking (engine is running) so the ECU can control the IAC (when in P or N).
 
If you don't care about the factory alarm disabling the starter, just go with what I said.

If you want the factory alarm to disable the starter, then you'll have to wire it up the factory MT alarm way.

Aftermarket alarms are all different and wire things however they feel like. If they rely on factory wiring using the starter relay then wire it up the factory MT alarm way. If they bypass all factory wiring you can most likely still use my method.
 
K this is what I ran into.
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Last edited by a moderator:
It depends on whether you are using an AT harness (for your now MT) and whether that harness was for turbo or NT. From the colors it sounds like you have a NT AT harness. In that case, you must leave the relay in and connect the black-yellow thin wire to ground. The relay will then activate with key start position providing power to the starter solenoid.


I clipped the wires to close to the clip. Can I just directly connect the wires to each other and go without the relay? If I can which wires do I connect?
 
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