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Old 12-11-2010, 11:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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CASITE "Motor Honey"


Ok, so, as some of you who have read my previous thread know, I am wanting to do a 16g upgrade due to my stock T-25 having a slight oil leak, and am on a tight budget. I went down to the local parts store and talked to a couple of guys there about my problem, and they said that they have had the same issue before and had luck using this stuff called "motor honey", so I decided what the hell, might as well give it a try for 4$ as a last ditch effort to fix the problem for the mean time. They did however say that they have heard of some issues with this stuff about when the engine is cold in the winter, it puts a lot more strain on the engine, which I dont think I have to worry about too much, as the weather has never reached a temperature lower than 30 degrees in the 22 years I have been living here (I live in the bay area of CA) So, anyways I scooped this stuff in my engine and fired her up, and gave it a whirl, and my GSX stopped smoking almost immediately!!! I was amazed that this snake oil actually helped the problem, granted that I understand that this stuff is not a permanent fix, but will hopefully hold me over the winter until I can get the money for a true 16G and supporting mods and do the job correctly the first time. I was seriously puzzled on how this helped, I'm guessing that the seal wasn't leaking enormously for how quickly it stopped the issue. Has anyone else ever tried this stuff?


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Old 12-11-2010, 11:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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You could have just tried a heavier weight oil. That's all that "motor honey" did. It just made your oil thicker.


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Old 12-11-2010, 11:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knochgoon24 View Post
You could have just tried a heavier weight oil. That's all that "motor honey" did. It just made your oil thicker.
I know, but I just did an oil change less than 500 miles ago, using Royal Purple, and did not want to throw it out.

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Old 12-11-2010, 11:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Well you don't exactly have Royal Purple in it anymore...


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Old 12-11-2010, 11:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Well you don't exactly have Royal Purple in it anymore...
true, but I didnt want to throw away 50$ motor oil is my point, the way I see it is less-than royal purple is still better than car that leaks and burns up a lot of royal purple.

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Old 12-12-2010, 12:49 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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The issue with motor honey in cold weather is because it has such a high viscosity it congeals like glue and sinks to the lowest point in the oil pan where the oil pump pickup is. So when you cold start the engine there is a congealed lump of motor honey surrounding the pickup preventing oil from flowing into the pump.

San Fran may not get super cold but the high viscosity of motor honey is going to affect oil delivery when the engine is cold. So you may want to go easy on the engine for the first few minutes until it has warmed up and the oil is flowing properly.

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Old 12-12-2010, 06:30 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Another thing to note is those oil thickeners like Lucas are best not used on turbo motors as the oil thickness is too high and will not drain out properly.

Does it say it's safe for a turbo application? Thing I'm trying to understand is you say you have an oil leak at the turbo. Where exactly is it leaking out from? Feed, drain or past shaft seals (burning)?


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Old 12-12-2010, 08:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Ok your acting like using Royal Purple oil is a mod or something. Its just expensive. Go change your oil dude.
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Ok your acting like using Royal Purple oil is a mod or something. Its just expensive. Go change your oil dude.
I am not acting like it was a mod, I am saying I bought expensive oil, and do not feel like wasting the money on more oil when I have barely put 500 miles on it, Damn, does everybody have something bad to say about everyone on here??? I was posting that this product works pretty well, I am not saying that it is a bad ass mod, and I am not saying it is the greatest thing in the world, I was just stating a good experience I had with this product.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LiQUiDx View Post
Another thing to note is those oil thickeners like Lucas are best not used on turbo motors as the oil thickness is too high and will not drain out properly.

Does it say it's safe for a turbo application? Thing I'm trying to understand is you say you have an oil leak at the turbo. Where exactly is it leaking out from? Feed, drain or past shaft seals (burning)?
It says it is safe with all gasoline or diesel application, there were some products that say not recommended for oil fed turbocharged engines, but I steered clear of those.

it has been blowing grayish-blue smoke at high RPM and high boost, and there is a little bit of oil in the inter-cooler lines, so I would assume that that is the past shaft seals. Also I do let the engine warm up completely before driving it. I always let my car warm up for 10 minutes for 10 minutes when starting it cold and let it idle for three minutes when shutting it off.

Last edited by ThomasGSX; 12-12-2010 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 12-12-2010, 04:08 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasGSX View Post
It says it is safe with all gasoline or diesel application, there were some products that say not recommended for oil fed turbocharged engines, but I steered clear of those.

it has been blowing grayish-blue smoke at high RPM and high boost, and there is a little bit of oil in the inter-cooler lines, so I would assume that that is the past shaft seals. Also I do let the engine warm up completely before driving it. I always let my car warm up for 10 minutes for 10 minutes when starting it cold and let it idle for three minutes when shutting it off.
So it didn't specifically say for use with turbo applications?

So the turbo was eating oil prior to the honey? The only way for oil to get in the IC lines would be from the VC vent line that is attached to the intake pipe.

There isn't a need to sit and idle unless you didn't take it easy before you got to your parking destination. I drive easy for the last min or two before parking and when I just had my turbo apart I had no coking. Also it's not a water cooled turbo like the stocker.


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Old 12-12-2010, 04:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
blowing grayish-blue smoke at high RPM and high boost
..ever thought about the high oil pressure that you're developing with a motor all wound up as tight as a pissed off goat?

If your doing blue on a high RPM setup, better think on doing a rebuild for the oil rings are getting tired and that high oil pressure is blowing past the oil rings.

..and leave all of those oil additives alone - just cheap fixes for poor souls.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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ive used it before in a n/a eclipse i had as it was smoking from the oil rings being bad. So i put it in and the motor hesitated instantly as it was running when i put it in. As you said its just temporary and thats all motor honey is.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:17 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM1G90 View Post
..ever thought about the high oil pressure that you're developing with a motor all wound up as tight as a pissed off goat?

If your doing blue on a high RPM setup, better think on doing a rebuild for the oil rings are getting tired and that high oil pressure is blowing past the oil rings.

..and leave all of those oil additives alone - just cheap fixes for poor souls.
I'm still not 100% sure, it just does it only when its high RPMS and high boost, it does not smoke when the boost is down and the RPMs are high, and also when the RPMs are lower but the boost is full it doesn't smoke at all, its only when you have both up high. And I did the 9$ catch can so its not from the VC line, the lower inter-cooler line is coated with oil. But I have almost no shaft play, (very minimal, within the normal limits). so you think its oil seals? like which ones, I just had a rebuild on it not even 50,000 miles ago, so I doubt its my piston rings, but I can run a compression check as well as a leak down check.

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Old 12-13-2010, 10:32 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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kinda answered your own question there: no smoke on the low RPM thing.

How many miles is on the motor, would be the next question, for if it's high, then I would tag it as tired rings...why the smoking stopped with you threw in that "Motor Honey" (which is the same stuff as STP Oil Treatment ..) oil treatment.


If you're going through oil that bad, I wouldn't be shoving that expensive Royal Purple stuff in a tired motor. For that expensive stuff will not save a tired motor by itself. Save a few bucks and use regular dino 10w 30 (like Vavoline or Castrol) until the rebuild comes around.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:41 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DSM1G90 View Post
kinda answered your own question there: no smoke on the low RPM thing.

How many miles is on the motor, would be the next question, for if it's high, then I would tag it as tired rings...why the smoking stopped with you threw in that "Motor Honey" (which is the same stuff as STP Oil Treatment ..) oil treatment.


If you're going through oil that bad, I wouldn't be shoving that expensive Royal Purple stuff in a tired motor for that expensive stuff will not save a tired motor by itself. Save a few bucks and use regular dino 10w 30 until the rebuild comes around.
.
good luck-DSM
I have less than 50,000 miles on this motor. pistons and rings were replaced when the rebuild was done. do you think I am alright as long as I check my oil and top it off regularly? It really isnt going through oil severley, it just was the smoking, that I was worried about, and the fact I have to smog it soon, I am hoping that it does not affect the outcome of my smog test. ####ing California.

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Old 12-13-2010, 10:59 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Heavier oil will not repair a turbine seal leak in a turbocharger. If anything it would make the turbo leak worse as heavier oil would raise the pressure entering the cartridge and drain slower as well.

If your car was smoking before and it stopped when you added Motor Honey or switched to a thicker oil, your valve seals are leaking. Peer into the head when you have the manifold removed while doing the turbo swap to verify this...the stems should not be wet at all if the valve seals are OK.

For normal driving, do not use anything thinner than 10W30 in our cars.


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Old 12-13-2010, 11:25 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Heavier oil will not repair a turbine seal leak in a turbocharger. If anything it would make the turbo leak worse as heavier oil would raise the pressure entering the cartridge and drain slower as well.

If your car was smoking before and it stopped when you added Motor Honey or switched to a thicker oil, your valve seals are leaking. Peer into the head when you have the manifold removed while doing the turbo swap to verify this...the stems should not be wet at all if the valve seals are OK.

For normal driving, do not use anything thinner than 10W30 in our cars.
Good to know, thank you for your help, it does still smoke when I Run the RPMs high, but once driven for the first few miles, it clears up. So valve stem seals? I have heard this is not a major problem, just more of an annoyance, as long as I keep it topped off, I should be OK, is this correct?

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Old 12-13-2010, 11:45 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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If the smoke clears up while driving, I'd point toward the engine being the cause of the smoke.

Generally-speaking, valve seals will smoke after extended idling or low-RPM operation and will normally clear up while driving at speed, piston rings will smoke all of the time, and a blown turbo or leaking turbine seal will begin to smoke during deceleration after a hard pull, followed by smoke during a hard pull, and will eventually smoke all of the time if ignored.


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Old 12-13-2010, 04:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Oh agree on valve seals. Have a 1.8 that I did valve seals on it at 139k. Now, getting ready to do 200k on the block, it smokes a bit on the startup... getting ready for valve seals again in the near future..
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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yeah, still not sure.

It does smoke when you are in high RPMs but only if you go full boost.

It does not smoke when it is lower RPMs even if you go full boost.

Motor Honey seems to help.

There is motor oil lined in the lower inter-cooler hoses.

....That is all I know at this time, what does this sound like?

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