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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 06-23-2010, 02:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #21 (permalink)
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sounds like your belt also i would upgrade to 3g lifters... if thats whats causing that ticking noise... unless its the exhaust manifols having a leak


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Old 06-23-2010, 02:38 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gieri002 View Post
Im telling you buddy go through exactly what I told you and your car will be perfect.
+1, especially check the recirc tubing for the BOV. IF it is leaking there, you will have the same issue. Mine did that when I was running a non-recirc BOV (it came with the car that way, I found a 1G BOV at a pull-a-part for 2 bucks to fix the issue).

Agree on the lifters and belt issue too. If this has been sitting for a while, the belts are an easy $20 fix for the squeak.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #23 (permalink)
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There are no sepentines in these motors. Its a bronze starter sleve bushing, or another worn belt that makes the noise. As i brought up the problem of the "ticking" it sounds like the good rod knock on a 7 bolt, as i said before check the crank for "play", oil levels, filters ect. Worse comes to worse if you dont know what your doing(not in a rude way) just have a trusted mechanic look it at so they dont get you putting parts in your car that you dont need. Also, to those who think its a lifter tick, ill send you a video of a lifter and a rod knock or a bearing . This most definitely sounds a little bit louder then a lifter or even a exaust leak wouldnt make that loud of a clicking that far in the back..

Dsmnoob- The exaust leak in your car could be making your car dieing. My old car has a hole in the headers and would die if rev'd to high, on a turbo car that runs off of exaust fumes might be more dependant on a closed exaust.
1. Boost leak check.
50-100-$Boost leak test how to with boostpro.net tester
5-10 at home depo-http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
2. Check all belts for cracks, tears, or the looseness of the belts(except the timing which is dependant on where the motor sits)
http://home.comcast.net/~tnunley/ple...ked%20belt.jpg
3.Replace the muffler(Get done for cheap at a shop)
4.Maintenance (Oil filter, fuel filter, oil, belts if needed, plugs, and wires)
5.Get your motor, compression tested(for free) and as i said before a good mechanic to check for crank walk and the ticking noise so people on here can get some peice of mind.

Hope that helps! Best of luck
Dan


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Old 06-23-2010, 11:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #24 (permalink)
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Your not going to hear crankwalk. If you hear anything while you have crank walk then its either rods knocking or the main bearings spinning. Not crankwalk. Now you could have crankwalk at the same time as a spun main or rod knock. They however are not the same thing. People need to stop throwing crankwalk out there as the first thing thats wrong. Very few of the issues diagnosed as "crankwalk" on this forum actually are.
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #25 (permalink)
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Not saying the problem is crank walk, just to check for it, common problem bud always good to check on them seven bolts.


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Old 06-23-2010, 11:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #26 (permalink)
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WOW, seriously sorry for calling it a serp belt its clearly a v-belt if you want to get technical...Alot of people refer to them as serp belts though as you will see if you start reading more. tenn-gsx I completely agree with you, crankwalk gets thrown out there way to much, there are very few actual cases compared to the number of 7 bolts and 6 bolts for that matter.

Dsm4lyfe12 you might want to check your numbers. $50-100 for a boost leak tester from boostpro.net, psh try $12-20.
The muffler may be annoying but there is no possible way that it is a cause of your dying problems.

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Old 06-24-2010, 01:10 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsm4lyfe12 View Post
There are no sepentines in these motors. Its a bronze starter sleve bushing, or another worn belt that makes the noise. As i brought up the problem of the "ticking" it sounds like the good rod knock on a 7 bolt, as i said before check the crank for "play", oil levels, filters ect. Worse comes to worse if you dont know what your doing(not in a rude way) just have a trusted mechanic look it at so they dont get you putting parts in your car that you dont need. Also, to those who think its a lifter tick, ill send you a video of a lifter and a rod knock or a bearing . This most definitely sounds a little bit louder then a lifter or even a exaust leak wouldnt make that loud of a clicking that far in the back..

Dsmnoob- The exaust leak in your car could be making your car dieing. My old car has a hole in the headers and would die if rev'd to high, on a turbo car that runs off of exaust fumes might be more dependant on a closed exaust.
1. Boost leak check.
50-100-$Boost leak test how to with boostpro.net tester
5-10 at home depo-http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
2. Check all belts for cracks, tears, or the looseness of the belts(except the timing which is dependant on where the motor sits)
http://home.comcast.net/~tnunley/ple...ked%20belt.jpg
3.Replace the muffler(Get done for cheap at a shop)
4.Maintenance (Oil filter, fuel filter, oil, belts if needed, plugs, and wires)
5.Get your motor, compression tested(for free) and as i said before a good mechanic to check for crank walk and the ticking noise so people on here can get some peice of mind.

Hope that helps! Best of luck
Dan
perhaps i could be rod knocking, but on the other side , when my rods where knocking the ticking sound was alot faster


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Old 06-24-2010, 01:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #28 (permalink)
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starters on its way out, you have a bad lifter and/or a broken valve spring.

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Old 06-24-2010, 12:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #29 (permalink)
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I dont understand why my starter is going out again, it was just replaced.. I'm starting to concider doing the 3g lifters and springs to the head besides the belts... any thoughts on this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyboula View Post
dude, check your spark wires
IF ITS IN THE CORRECT POSISTION TOO.

I hope im right

Good luck !

im sure they are in the correct position but I might have it wrong, anyone got any pics or can tell me the right position for spark wires?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gieri002 View Post
WOW, seriously sorry for calling it a serp belt its clearly a v-belt if you want to get technical...Alot of people refer to them as serp belts though as you will see if you start reading more. tenn-gsx I completely agree with you, crankwalk gets thrown out there way to much, there are very few actual cases compared to the number of 7 bolts and 6 bolts for that matter.

Dsm4lyfe12 you might want to check your numbers. $50-100 for a boost leak tester from boostpro.net, psh try $12-20.
The muffler may be annoying but there is no possible way that it is a cause of your dying problems.

I went to boostpro.net, looks great but witch option would work best for me? send me the link and I'm buy it asap!! thanks

Last edited by DSMnOOb00; 06-24-2010 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #30 (permalink)
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If you have an aftermarket boost gauge either will work, the gauge is a little more convenient but it will read the same as your aftermarket boost gauge will. If you just have the stock boost gauge your going to want to buy the one with the gauge. Good luck, let us know how it goes!

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Old 06-24-2010, 11:08 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMnOOb00 View Post
I dont understand why my starter is going out again, it was just replaced.. I'm starting to concider doing the 3g lifters and springs to the head besides the belts... any thoughts on this?




im sure they are in the correct position but I might have it wrong, anyone got any pics or can tell me the right position for spark wires?




I went to boostpro.net, looks great but witch option would work best for me? send me the link and I'm buy it asap!! thanks
The order is at the botton of the ignition coil

its 4 - 1 - 2 - 3

hope it helps

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Old 06-25-2010, 10:33 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #32 (permalink)
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Starter ain't going out, but just doesn't like being used too much ...
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:47 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #33 (permalink)
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Check your timing belt for slack, it could be loose and be hitting something.
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #34 (permalink)
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So I just decided to replace all my cuplers and clamps with tclamps and silicone cuplers... I have the Dejon tool jpip with the dejon tool upper and lower piping to my stock smic with greddy bov.

what size cuplers do i need as well as clamps?

my cars at home and I want to order right now lol

thanks guys
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:05 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #35 (permalink)
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nice car looks like mine lol. My car would die when i would rev it up like that, Fixed that by plugging off all the vacuum leaks. But that's no lifter ticking, I swear i think your motor is knocking.
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:28 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #36 (permalink)
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I did check for slack in the timing belt, I couldn't turn the gears when I pulled it but there was give when I pushed down on the belt inbetween the gears... Is that slack normal?

And now I'm having questions about my spark plug order... Someone said it was 4123 but is that from left to right going to the valve cover? I got mine 1342
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:57 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #37 (permalink)
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1 is closest to the timing cover


Last edited by colbyc; 06-26-2010 at 08:03 AM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:32 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #38 (permalink)
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On the valve cover I'm going 1432 to the coil pack

1234 - coil pack
1432 - valve cover

I'm using the order from the coil pack above the fuel rail as the order refreance.
so the first spark plug on the cover is going to the first position on the coil pack
and the last spark plug wire is going to the 2nd position on the coil pack


Idk if that makes sense?
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #39 (permalink)
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The pic i posted is exactly how it is, 1 goes to 1 2 goes to 2 3 goes to 3 and 4 goes to 4
ok simpler, 4 goes to very left on the coil pack, 3 goes to very right does that help any? lol

valve cover left to right --4321
coil pack left to right-- 4123
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:58 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #40 (permalink)
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Got it, car fires up! Thanks, I was checking to make sure the order was right...
But the car still has that squeek and idle issue. I think I'm just going to get my mechanic buddy to stop by.. Some people say it's the lifters, others say its eaither rod knock or crankwalk... I was hoping it was just the plugs lol
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