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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 02-28-2010, 03:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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how to get a turbo to spool faster


Ive been looking on the search and cant find anything on there. so im just wondering. besides getting bigger more free flow exhaust or a cold air intake. what else can you do to get your turbo to spool faster. Im fine with the PSI i get just want less lag lol. o btw I have an evo 3 big 16g turbo on my 92 talon with greddy BOV, apexi exhaust system 3 inch. cut the air box and Maf mod. thank you for any info...


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Old 02-28-2010, 03:30 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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No one complains about the E3's spool. If you have a manual maybe you should shift more.


.......That or throw some nawszzzz at it.

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Old 02-28-2010, 03:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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EVO3 has great spool time, if you want faster, I suggest going back to a t25

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Old 02-28-2010, 03:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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less lag than a e3?

want to try a supercharger?


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Old 02-28-2010, 03:41 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Check for boost leaks.

If you have any way to control your timing, you can increase the timing a bit to help spool time.


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Old 02-28-2010, 03:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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I've never heard someone with an Evo III 16G and stock cams complain about lag. Are you sure you don't have any boost leaks or pre-turbine exhaust leaks?


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Old 02-28-2010, 03:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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You can get adjustable cam gears and mess with the timing of the cams.

From: How to Tune Cam Gears on a 4g63t - My Pro Street
Quote:
This article assumes that you have a clear understanding of what cam gears are and that you have at least one of them installed. Keep in mind that your modifications (turbo, fuel setup, etc.) might yield different results for your application. Use the explanation below to experiment with your cam gear settings but we HIGHLY advise not exceeding 5 degrees in either direction, advance or retard. As with all of our tech tips and how tos, You should have a certified mechanic working on your car, or if you wish to do yourself, Pro Street Industries is not responsible for the modifications you perform on your own vehicle.

On the 4g63 DOHC engine you can dial-in intake and exhaust timing independently of each other to regulate overlap. As you'll start to see as you make changes, combined with the use of a chassis dyno (highly recommended) you can fine-tune your cam's entire operation by advancing or retarding its action, squeezing as much horsepower and torque from your state-of-tune as possible.

It's important to note that adjustable cam gears have no direct effect on the duration and lift of the valves, that's the job of the camshaft lobes (profile) as dictated by the cam manufacturer.

*TIP - Always make sure your cam gears are tightened correctly to combat cam gear slippage. Slippage refers to the bolts that hold your cam gear to the settings you desire loosening up and allowing the cam timing to advance or retard fully often with catastrophic results. DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU. And not to state the obvious, but... make sure your car is in tip-top working order before you adjust your cam gears.

Generally, advancing a cam gear opens a valve sooner, and closes it sooner... retarding the cam gear, opens the valve later, and closes it later... since all you've done is "move" the fixed event.

Advancing Intake and Exhaust : This will provide the car with more bottom end power, and will decrease top end. Advancing both cam gears will move overlap earlier but will not increase it.

Retarding Intake and Exhaust : This will increase the cars top end, but will decrease low end. Retarding both cam gears will move the overlap later and but will not change the amount of overlap.

Advance Exhaust Only : This will help the cars top end, and it reduces overlap.

Retard Exhaust only : This will help the cars mid range power, very useful for cars with big turbos / big cams. By increasing overlap, It decreases lag significantly. Doing this will bring the boost on all at once. Very common DSM modification.

Advance Intake only : This will increase overlap and helps the cars bottom end and mid range power. This mod will bring the turbo on all at once, although isnt a very common mod for DSMS.


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Old 02-28-2010, 03:56 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I am thinking i might have a boost leak then. and trust me its not the shifting or driving. it spools slow. I had one boost leak directly off the intake side of turbo but i fixed that. Idk where any other ones wud be. I didnt have any leacks on my old stock turbo a couple days ago so i guess it has to be a leak somewhere I dont know about

wait could it be that i still has stock TB elbow? my friend thinks thats y im getting slow spool. anyone else think that would restrict my spool?

Last edited by Kyromoto; 02-28-2010 at 04:00 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 02-28-2010, 04:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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A stock throttle body elbow would have nothing to do with it. Boost leak test your intake tract as suggested. You'd be surprised what you will find.


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Old 02-28-2010, 04:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Your WG flapper is partially hung open.

Do this.

1. Make a sharpie mark from the flapper arm to the turbine housing.
2. Take the small clevis pin out of the flapper arm and pull off the WG actuator arm.
3. See how much the flapper arm moves until is it fully shut by referencing the sharpie mark.

I had to shim my WG actuator off the compressor housing with about 1/8-3/16" worth of washers. This was on a brand new MHI Evo 3 16g. It didn't full boost until about 5k right out of the box. It went down to about 3200 after shimming the WG actuator.
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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ok. thanks

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Old 02-28-2010, 04:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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You may also have an exhaust leak. Just last night I was thinking how my car didn't have as much power as usual. Today I was checking the fluids when I noticed that 2 of the exhaust manifold bolts had backed off. I tightened those back up and all is well again.


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Old 02-28-2010, 05:13 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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ok ill give that a check as well. thanks

update. a couple nuts on exhaust mani were lose and one lose on the turbo to exhaust mani. fixed those. feels a little better but still slower then it should be. i dont hit max boost untill like 3500 ish

Last edited by Kyromoto; 02-28-2010 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 02-28-2010, 06:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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I'd put the stock turbo back on until you upgrade your fuel system. And get a wideband. And get a way to tune your car. And get a data logging setup. Until you do at least those upgrades there is no point in throwing on a bigger turbo. Your just going to hit fuel cut and run lean.

But, if you have your heart set on blowing up your engine, you can get the maifold ported, or an FP manifold, cams, head porting. Throwing nitrous might help spool it up too. But full boost at 3500 isn't bad.


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Old 02-28-2010, 07:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Are you running your stock exhaust manifold or O2 housing?
upgrading to the Evo3 manifold and O2 housing help out a good bit to decrease turbo lag, otherwise the idea of an aftermarket FPR probably wouldn't hurt your cause. if you go the route of getting a fuel pressure regulator then make sure you can get one thats rising rate as well as adjustable
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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I agree that 3500 full boost is pretty good. I had a 50 trim and got full boost at 3800 (20psi). Do a boost leak test. Mine leaked like crazy from the bov flange and the throttle body gaskets.


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Old 02-28-2010, 07:24 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyEclipse98 View Post
No one complains about the E3's spool. If you have a manual maybe you should shift more.


.......That or throw some nawszzzz at it.




Or you could always try a 14b, spools as soon as you hit the gas. But I wouldn't be too mad about the spool on an E3, the difference between a 14b and E3 would be huge. Your great where you are man.

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Old 02-28-2010, 07:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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If 3500 rpm full boost isn't for you, i suggest a v8.

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Old 02-28-2010, 07:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak View Post
If 3500 rpm full boost isn't for you, i suggest a v8.
There might also be an underlying problem.

The 2.4L stroker in the SRT4 spools the same sized turbo right around 3000rpm, move to a 2.3L stroker and you should see better spool time. Cams too.

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Old 02-28-2010, 07:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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a relatively easy way would be to get some evo 560's a 2g maf and a wally 190. wideband or logger would do some good and an safc.what type of boost controller are you using? and still... have you checked for boost leaks? are the only mods you have what are listed in your profile? and also what spark plugs you are running? and what type of E3 turbo is it??creating more tension on your wastegate flapper to keep closed longer will have its neg- effects but will help with spool time. if there is a step on your turbine housing of the turbo you can insert a ring... or port it for smooth transitioning. i know it is an oddball question... what clutch n flywheel do you have on your car? is your bov vented? and how much boost are you running?

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