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Old 03-11-2009, 03:46 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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I pray this is "Only" Lifter tick [Video]


My cars been starting to have problems, It sounds alot like lifter tick so I am hoping it "is". Oh crap I hope I wont half to slice my pockets into half on this one.

YouTube - 1g lifter tick?

Please click HQ button so you can hear the sounds properly.


Here is my biggest question. Is my car "Safe" as a daily commuter? Any feedback/knowlege on the problems I am having it greatly appreciated, I really hope this is only lifter tick. Better yet It would be wonderfull If it is something that only requires me to tighten/loosen some pulleys.

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Old 03-11-2009, 04:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the T-Belt is rubbing.

Just my personal opinion.

Lifter tick *SHOULD* go away when you give it gas.

Rod knock will not.


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Old 03-11-2009, 04:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like the beginning stages of rod knock.

Rod knock normally starts by being more pronounced at a certain RPM (around 2k-3k) and will often be loudest upon engine deceleration, when the combustion cycle is actually working to slow down the spinning crankshaft and loading the rod bearing in the opposite manner in which it would under acceleration.


If I were you I'd drop the oil pan and change all the bearings now before it destroys the crank if it hasn't done so already. This job shouldn't take much more than an hour and requires only a few tools. If nothing else it will give you piece of mind knowing your engine has new rod and main bearings.

What does your oil pressure look like at idle? Any metal in the oil?


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Old 03-11-2009, 04:47 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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sounds like rod knock to me lifter goes away after a few min and has a different sound.


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Old 03-11-2009, 04:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jusmx141 View Post
Sounds to me like the beginning stages of rod knock.

Rod knock normally starts by being more pronounced at a certain RPM (around 2k-3k) and will often be loudest upon engine deceleration, when the combustion cycle is actually working to slow down the spinning crankshaft and loading the rod bearing in the opposite manner in which it would under acceleration.


If I were you I'd drop the oil pan and change all the bearings now before it destroys the crank if it hasn't done so already. This job shouldn't take much more than an hour and requires only a few tools. If nothing else it will give you piece of mind knowing your engine has new rod and main bearings.

What does your oil pressure look like at idle? Any metal in the oil?
If I leave it at idle for about 10 mins, the oil pressure is about bare minumum. Under hard acceleration and driving freeway/doing quick little pulls brings the oil pressure anywhere between a quarter way to 45%.

Also under hard acceleration in 2nd gear the PSI barely reaches 8 when almost to 7k rpm, then the PSI sputtles from 8psi to 6psi really fast, with a very distinct whistle/vaccuum, so I think I might also have boost leak

Could you possibly point me in the right direction to some good info on how to swap the rods, as I will probly be the most wet I will get my hands on this car since I baught it last year.
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:02 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Something in the general area of the timing belt doesn't sound right either, as mentioned above. I'd start pulling accessory belts and see if the grinding sound goes away, eliminating the water pump and alternator as possibilities. You may even want to remove your harmonic balancer and try running the car with it removed. I've seen cases where a junked harmonic balancer will sound EXACTLY like a rod bearing failure.


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Old 03-11-2009, 05:09 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Something in the general area of the timing belt doesn't sound right either, as mentioned above. I'd start pulling accessory belts and see if the grinding sound goes away, eliminating the water pump and alternator as possibilities. You may even want to remove your harmonic balancer and try running the car with it removed. I've seen cases where a junked harmonic balancer will sound EXACTLY like a rod bearing failure.
Oil pressure seems a bit low, which would make me think something is wrong internally in the motor.

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Old 03-11-2009, 05:10 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Comments = my experience .... may not = yours

Doesn't sound like rod knock, it's too intermittent, but something's wrong.

Check your water pump pulley for wobble. Pull your upper cam gear cover and check cam gears for wobble. Check that your harmonic balancer hasn't separated. (Common on 1Gs)

Please, please, please, don't rev an engine that sounds like that! Or any engine you think may have a catastophic problem. You'll only make it worse, or push it to failure. Find the problem first.

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Old 03-11-2009, 05:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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definitely not your lifters....

turn off car now.... dont do more damage by driving it...
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:06 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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You're really lucky I've never experience rod knock like that where the engine runs still.

That is rod knock for sure, your oil pressure is too low.


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Old 03-11-2009, 06:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Sounds like a balance shaft bearing to me. You also have a belt or pully issue. With the rubing noise when you did the p/s pump shot.

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Old 03-11-2009, 08:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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I have had my share of blowing rod bearings, and that is a spun rod bearing.
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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stop running it !!!!!


mine made the same exact sound right before a bolt on the U bend of the rod snapped and knocked a whole through my block

drain oil , drop pan and check for chunks of metal
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Drop that oil pan. That oil pressure is def. too low. Unless the gauge is shot.


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Old 03-11-2009, 11:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jusmx141 View Post
Something in the general area of the timing belt doesn't sound right either, as mentioned above. I'd start pulling accessory belts and see if the grinding sound goes away, eliminating the water pump and alternator as possibilities. You may even want to remove your harmonic balancer and try running the car with it removed. I've seen cases where a junked harmonic balancer will sound EXACTLY like a rod bearing failure.
Thats what I was going to ask him to do.

Are you going through belts?


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Old 03-11-2009, 11:31 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Yeah totally rod knock, like said before, don't bother starting it again in case it throws a rod.
How about those stroker kits?

edit~
That's why it's called lifter "tick" and rod "knock"... huge difference.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:38 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Drop that oil pan. That oil pressure is def. too low. Unless the gauge is shot.
So should I buy a new oil pan and replace it?
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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mine made the same exact sound right before a bolt on the U bend of the rod snapped and knocked a whole through my block

drain oil , drop pan and check for chunks of metal
I am really starting to wonder if this problem is all related to when I bought the car. The origional owner had mentioned to me when I made the purchase that the car had a small oil leak. The leak has seemed to get worse over the months. I litteraly wenth through an entire liter in 3 weeks. In which I only drive 9-15 miles a day.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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So should I buy a new oil pan and replace it?
Your old oil pan is fine as long as its hasnt looked like it went through a war.

Just get a new pan gasket.


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Old 03-11-2009, 11:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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I am really starting to wonder if this problem is all related to when I bought the car. The origional owner had mentioned to me when I made the purchase that the car had a small oil leak. The leak has seemed to get worse over the months. I litteraly wenth through an entire liter in 3 weeks. In which I only drive 9-15 miles a day.
If that's the story, then I'm going all-in on rod bearings. Somebody, SOMEWHERE has driven this car low on oil as a result of that leak.

My GS leaks oil profusely from the rear of cylinder head- it has for 5 years now....but I know that I need to add a quart every 2 weeks or so depending on how much it's driven. It's been like this a while....I'm just waiting for something major to happen so I can use it as an excuse to build the engine. It runs too good as a daily driver to tear it down. If someone who's not good on maintenance took my car, it would be dead in a month.


Good places to look for oil leaks on 4G63's with higher mileage are the cam seals and the rear main seal.


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