Pushbutton Starter Setup

[2GeNTSi]

Alright so after finding no exact clue as to why I have issues with starting my car, I decided I'm going to bypass the ignition switch and starter relay with a pushbutton setup. I'm not really familiar with electrical so it usually takes me a while to doing anything that requires some electrical work, but I'm not completely lost when it comes to it.

I have purchased a pushbutton switch (SPST - Momentary) and a SPDT relay and was planning to wire it to the ACC wire on the igntion switch to still require the key. I was looking at this page for reference as to how to set it up to an extent:

crxMPG - Gas mileage never looked so good DIY Push Button Start

I have some direction as to how this will work but am not completely sure. Anyone of you DSMers have any experience with this and what suggestions you have (inline fuse perhaps as well?). Any help would be appreciated.

Also here is the diagram of the relay.

 

[99gst_racer]

Hmm.... This was me last month. I have a problem with a starter relay, ignition switch, or something related, and my car would not start. After 3 days, I grew tired of popping the hood and jumping the starter solenoid, so I too bought a button to make life more simple.

K.I.S.
"Keep It Simple"

Just run a wire from your battery to the switch, and then to the starter solenoid. You'll still need to have the key in the ignition to activate the fuel pump, etc, but all starter control will be through the button. It would also be smart to fuse the wire coming off the battery. This has been working beautifully for me for the past month.

 

[gixrman]

Here is a relay wiring diagram is that what your looking for?
Relay Wiring

 

[2GeNTSi]

Here is a relay wiring diagram is that what your looking for?
Relay Wiring

This definitely helps, so I was thinking in that diagram to use 86 for the switched 12v from the ign switch, 30 going to the starter "s" terminal, 85 ground, and 87 from the pushbutton with the button grounded as well.

 

[luv2rallye]

This definitely helps, so I was thinking in that diagram to use 86 for the switched 12v from the ign switch, 30 going to the starter "s" terminal, 85 ground, and 87 from the pushbutton with the button grounded as well.

No, No. Connect your push button where it says "Switch" on pin 86. 85 is ground. 30 goes to postive battery post through a fuse. 87 goes to the starter "s" terminal.

Or you can eliminate the wire to the battery post by:
Connect your push button where it says "Switch" and wire it to both pin 86 and 30 (nothing else on 30). If that circuit isn't already fused, put a 15A fuse between the ignition switch power source and the push button. 85 is ground. 87 goes to the starter "s" terminal.

 

[2GeNTSi]

No, No. Connect your push button where it says "Switch" on pin 86. 85 is ground. 30 goes to postive battery post through a fuse. 87 goes to the starter "s" terminal.

Or you can eliminate the wire to the battery post by:
Connect your push button where it says "Switch" and wire it to both pin 86 and 30 (nothing else on 30). If that circuit isn't already fused, put a 15A fuse between the ignition switch power source and the push button. 85 is ground. 87 goes to the starter "s" terminal.

I understand what the diagram meant but it wouldn't be possible to wire it like in my previous post? I was thinking of using 86 only for the 12v switched from the ignition, then 87 or 30 w/ the switch, 85 ground, and the remainder to go to the "S" terminal. Wouldn't that work?

Also so for your 2nd suggestion, am I going to be grounding the switch (by splicing) at all or one side goes to 86 and one goes to 30?

 

[beating4g63s]

you guys make it easy for me, I've been thinking of this for a few days and didn't even get a chance to search about it, welp off to work I go. thanks for the info by the way.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Thanks for everyones help it works!!

I did it just as you said luv2rallye on your 2nd suggestion by just putting a jumper between 86 and 30. I think used some quick disconnects to hook it up to a 20amp fuse and finally to the switched 12v at the ignition. It works great and it never sounded better starting it up. It doesn't crank super slow anymore.

If you guys have any questions about it just let know and I'll try to help you out the best I can. Thanks again!

Now to move on to the smaller issues...

 

[90laserRSfwd]

post some detailed pic's of the relay to to where each wire goes

 

[Detective Coating]

Can you post some pictures of the wiring and what not?

EDIT: Ah, he ^ beat me too it!

 

[2GeNTSi]

Well I didn't really have time to take pics but next weekend when I come back here I'll try to snap some photos if you really need it.

But just for a little info I used 16ga wiring and quick disconnect ends for all the connections other then the inline splicers (inline connectors on the diagram). I originally was going to solder but didn't really know how and couldn't get it to look right haha. The push button I got from Radioshack, it's a monetary pushbutton so it only works while it is pushed down, once you let go it immediately goes into an "off" state. You CAN use one of those flip switches but they require you to flip them in the opposite direction to turn off rather than just simply letting go. Finding the 12v source from the ignition switch was fairly easy on my car. The turbo timer only turns on in the keys "ON" position, so I simply used the solid blue wire (on the harness) and spliced into it using an inline splicer.

I was really diligent in wiring it all up, after ever connection I tested for continuity on a voltmeter. Before firing her up I took the voltmeter to make sure that pin 87 was putting out 12v when I pushed the button, then I simply wired it directly to the starter "s" terminal on the solenoid (quick disconnects as well).

Also on a last note, I used insulated quick disconnects on most of my connections. It's probably safer to use them on ALL connections to make sure nothing touches somehow. The only connections I didn't use them on were the relay side connections because the pins are fairly spread apart.

Anywho, here is the diagram on how I wired it up. Again I'll try to take photos next weekend but this should give you a good idea before you get started. I really recommend going this route for any of you who cannot solve their "no-start" issue with just the solenoid clicking. If you read a lot of the forums regarding starter issues I've replied to many of them starting I think more than 2 years ago. So it's really been an on going issue until today. I've replaced all the cables, battery, cleaned grounds, replaced ign switch, starter relay, starter COUNTLESS times, and nothing has resolved the problem till now. Also if you just want some "cool factor" without buying that Ignited $80 S2000 switch then I say go this route as well. Thanks again to luv2rallye and everyone for the help again.

Oh yeah, the pin in the middle is not used so you can just ignore it.

 

[luv2rallye]

Good job and nice looking diagram.

 

[Detective Coating]

Thanks a lot man, I would definitely like to see pics if its no bother. I am going to do it on my friends 1g because he is having the same problems you were having and I have changed absolutely everything on there and cannot get it to start. I just needed a good diagram to start with, I think everything should be pretty close to the same. Thanks again!

 

[2GeNTSi]

Good job and nice looking diagram.

Thanks, haha yeah I did what I could since I have no pics right now.

Thanks a lot man, I would definitely like to see pics if its no bother. I am going to do it on my friends 1g because he is having the same problems you were having and I have changed absolutely everything on there and cannot get it to start. I just needed a good diagram to start with, I think everything should be pretty close to the same. Thanks again!

Sure I'll put a reminder for myself. I'm gonna also replace the ECT and some coolant lines while I'm back home next weekend. If I have enough money I'll try to get a FIAV bypass plate so I can put in my rebuilt TB.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Alright as promised, some pics of the actually install (with my phones camera. sorry!). Also, don't mind the messy wiring, that is Best Buys work from when they installed my alarm back in the day. If you actually have removed the lower dash then you know where the button is mounted, I just placed it there since I already had a drilled out hole from the previous owner.

In the last image, it's difficult to tell where the wiring is going but if you refer back to my diagram then it'll make sense.

 

[Defiant]

Using red for ground.

You will be hunted down and smacked.

 

[selmerguy]

So do you still use the keys to go to the ACC position? I saw somewhere a switch you pressed and it went to the acc position. And if you held it it started the car. Anyone know anything about that? Link or something????

 

[99gst_racer]

Forgive my ignorance, but why is a relay needed to momentarily activate the starter solenoid?

 

[luv2rallye]

Actually it's not but even the solenoid can draw enough current (especially the initial spike) to wear down button contacts with repeated use. It's also safer and you don't then have to find a 10 amp or more button rated at 15000 operations (like the key start switch). But yes a button could be used. I didn't mention it because he was already convinced to go down the relay path which is also ok.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Using red for ground.

You will be hunted down and smacked.

Haha yeah I didn't even realize that I did so, but now I remember that when I was about to start that I didn't have any black wiring for some reason and I didn't want to make a run to the store. I can always go back and fix that some other time.

So do you still use the keys to go to the ACC position? I saw somewhere a switch you pressed and it went to the acc position. And if you held it it started the car. Anyone know anything about that? Link or something????

Yes you still need the key to start the car. It is wired to the blue wire coming from the ign that receives +12v when the key is in the ON position, if the key is in ACC, the pushbutton will not work. If you were to turn the key to START you will simply hear the starter relay clicking but nothing actually happening.

Forgive my ignorance, but why is a relay needed to momentarily activate the starter solenoid?

I'm sure it wasn't entirely necessary, but that's just the route I decided to go in.

 

[99gst_racer]

Actually it's not but even the solenoid can draw enough current (especially the initial spike) to wear down button contacts with repeated use. It's also safer and you don't then have to find a 10 amp or more button rated at 15000 operations (like the key start switch). But yes a button could be used. I didn't mention it because he was already convinced to go down the relay path which is also ok.

Understood. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Just an update on the status of the setup, it has been almost a year and the switch has worked every time. It has not failed me yet.

I also figured out my idle problem by simply giving some slack on my tb cable.