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Alternator disassembly and cleaning

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Calan

DSM Wiseman
7,251
363
Jan 16, 2007
OKC, Oklahoma
My alternator has had PS fluid and oil leaking on and into it for who knows how long. While cleaning parts for my big reassembly, I decided to tackle it. (it seemed to be working fine... just nasty).

I pulled it apart per the factory manual, up to the point of unsoldering the leads in the stator/rear cover.

With it apart, do you think it would hurt to clean the rotor and stator assemblies with simple green and water, as long as I dried it out real well with compressed air? I'd probably spray it down with some contact cleaner afterwards to help prevent corrosion.

I'm mainly worried about the rotor assembly, as I can't really tell if it's sealed, solid, or what.

Also, the manual shows two seals, which weren't in mine WTF

I really don't wanna fork out for an alty if I don't have to, but I just can't put this POS back on my ride looking like this :)
 
The stator is completly sealed. So you can spray it with simple green, rinse with water, then blow dry. As for the rotor assembly it is not "sealed" but each wire has a varnish over it to keep it from contacting the other wires. The triangle looking pieces are also varnished(they are just made of iron). Use the same simplegreen/water/air for that. You could spray down the entire thing if you wanted, maybe take out the volatge regulator though. Other than that you can clean it all. Just make sure you put the plastic washers back in the same place when you re-assemble, or else you will have yourself a non working alternator.
 
Well... I tore it apart, cleaned the crap out of it, and re-assembled. The only potential problem I see is that the big triangular shapes on the rotor are no longer varnished, and as I said the thing didn't have the seals that are shown in the manual. The simple green and some cleaning with a paint brush took them to shiny metal. :D (will the rotor arc to the stator now?)

I'll take it to Autozone and have it tested; If it's hosed, I'll just get a new alternator and will have learned what the inside of these look like. ;)

I also noticed a very slight wobble in the pulley. It's hardly noticable, but it is there. Do you think that will wear the belt out faster, or is this common?
 
You already cleaned it and I hope all goes well. Just some imput though as my day job is as an Electronic Tech.


Anytime you mess with refurbing generators/alternators or anything of the sort... It's really important to watch what kind of cleaning/lubrication solution you are using. I can tell you from my learning days, WD-40 is not something you want to be spraying around there! :p Point is, you want to be using an alcohol based product... actually, anytime you clean any type of electronic components, it's all you should use. Water based, although can be done, need a long time to dry... probably 48 hours longer then when you think it's dry, and oil based stuff is just a horrible thing.


Rubbing alcohol is good, but best is Denatured Alcohol. It's a bit more expensive, but is pure, contains no water base at all. If not, a can of contact cleaner works great too.



If it does arc, your not in trouble..... Radio Shack or a decent electronic store should have whats called Conform-a-coat. Just spray it on, and give it an hour to dry, and it forms a rubber electrical tight seal. Just watch to only get the exposed surface, as the stuff will stick moving parts together like glue
 
Just be aware that it's well documented that PS Leaks kill the Voltage Regulator in the Alt - Which often then fails to a HIGH Voltage output - Which then COOKS your ECU... been there, done that - A good Viton O Ring assortment comes in handy on the PS Pump, especially the teeny ass O Ring on the ECU Pressure Switch Pin - Personally I went ahead & Flushed the PS System & switched to Synthetic PS Fluid.
 
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