The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support ExtremePSI

battery relocation (not to trunk)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rahdigga8188

15+ Year Contributor
97
1
May 18, 2006
Savannah, Georgia
Ok I been searching all over and all I see is relocations to the trunk. What I want to do is just keep it in the same area, but lower it to where the evap canister is. My friend has this done but he bought the car like this so I am just wondering if any one has done this what kinda tray did you use , or is there a tech article out there somewhere? thanks :thumb:
 
Ok, heres what I did. I used a larger than OEM sized Optima Red Top dual post battery also.

I removed the carb canister, and the OEM battery hold down tray and bracket. I ran my big wiring loom a bit out of the way, its easy to see once your down there.

I bought a steel battery tray and hold down bracket, and I wanted to bolt it directly to the frame peice of the car that houses the power steering rack. The tray was a bit too big and I had to trim off 2 or so inches on each side of the tray to fit, and also trimmed the front of the tray at an angle to give plently of clearance to the tranny and close wires. I then positioned the tray perfectly where I wanted it and attached it with a few self tapping screws and washers. I then proceeded to bolt the battery to the tray with the hold down and trim the hold down bolts.

For the ground there are 2 stock wires. The one comming from the wiring harness bolted right up but for the other wire on the firewall you will need to relocate it or replace it like I did with a longer cable.

For the poisitive there are 2 large wires and the "pack" of wires with the fuse block. One wire goes to the starter, one to the alternator, and the other is the pack of wires. I ran the starter wire directly to the top post, but I decided I wanted the pack of fuses still easily accesable so I ran a 2 guage jumper cable from the top post the hole on the pack of fuses, and mounted the fuses by the shock tower. I just zip tied it to the clutch line but it does not move at all. I also ran the alternator line to the fuse block connector. After it was all done I taped up the positive top post althought it really wasn't needed. I have about 1.5" of clearance from the top of the battery to the bottom of the throttle body elbow.

Here's some pics.
 

Attachments

  • GSX 158 (Custom).jpg
    GSX 158 (Custom).jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 1,182
  • GSX 174 (Custom).jpg
    GSX 174 (Custom).jpg
    71.8 KB · Views: 1,161
  • GSX 173 (Custom).jpg
    GSX 173 (Custom).jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 1,138
  • GSX 164 (Custom).jpg
    GSX 164 (Custom).jpg
    88.7 KB · Views: 1,211
i bought my 92 gsx with the battery lowered. It was an optima red top and the previous owner removed all emissions and took the bracket off then he just lowered the battery straight down, not strapped to anything at all, it just sat there on top of the back of the engine bay/transmission kinda.

I was fine with it i didnt care too much i liked the easy access to the back of the intake, made it easy to get to the starter if you need to but one day my ignition fuse blew and left me sitting on the side of the road, i moved my radiator fan fuse over and turned the car on and drove it off then it blew while i was in the middle of the street, i was confused as hell. I had nothing else to do so i just grabbed the first blown fuse, spliced a couple of 16 gauge wires and stuck it in there to keep it connected and drove it home. It never gave me anymore problems until last week and while lifting the wire off the battery i noticed that the ignition wire was stripped right below the fuse box and everytime the car moved the battery it rubbed up agaist my motor mount to the point it eventually stripped the wire and grounding this power wire/blowing it.

just make sure you strap the battery down from moving
 
DGajre777 said:
Why not just get the 1G battery relocation kit from JM Fabrications??

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


With battery - http://www.jmfabrications.com/catal...id/67?osCsid=ebf3cc791b73477fbccc5c181a3518e2 or
Without battery - http://www.jmfabrications.com/catal...id/68?osCsid=ebf3cc791b73477fbccc5c181a3518e2


Now this I like, even though the pic uptop looks really good for custom.
 
hey guys well i relocated mine to the trunk, because my Magnus manifold. but i also bought the Braille small battery. its very small like the jbm kit. But the down falls in my experience is that it would go dead if i didn't drive the car everyday. i have and alarm on my car and that should be the only thing robbing power when its off. but after like 2 days of not driving it it would be dead. and i have dsmlink so thats a pain in the ass. i didn't just have to jump it but i would have to load my tune from my laptop so...... just my 2 cents
 
To those who moved the battery down where the charcoal canister was, how protected is it from water splashing up from underneath the car? I plan to do this but am worried from having it sit so low.
 
I have mine located down lower on the k member just like project TSI did. I drilled and taped new holes in the K member and in the frame rail for the hold down. I have not had 1 issue in the past 2 years and my car is a daily driver.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top