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How hot does your engine get???

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shallowshowcase

15+ Year Contributor
147
1
Jun 29, 2005
Arab, Alabama
This being my first turbo car, it just stood out at me. But i bought a car that was hiding alot of problems (broken harmonic balancer, oil coming out of valve cover, fuel pump not mounted with the bolts, alot of stripped bolts)

after fixing what seems to be alot of the problems, ive always noticed how hot the car gets. my friends love it and ill drive down the road and back and we will throw ice on the exhaust manifold and watch it skip liquid and goto steam... this dont require much driving, either.. but its like after i get home from work i cant work on my car for HOURS or maybe even the next day.. well my question is

how hot is too hot???
 
there are alot more parts working in turbo cars, and a lot more fluids/air flowing. It doesnt take much for the motor to get hot quite quicky.
My GSX usually heats up pretty good in about 10 blocks with not even getting on it.
Even though its a different motor....my buddys B18C1 gets so hot after starting it and revving it a couple times that you have to let it sit for about 30 min.
hope this helps some bro. good luck.
 
OK well buddy your manifold gets hot(duh), :rolleyes: But how is the engine temp? Another thing is you can put you finger on the manifold and see if its really hot!!(kidding don't do that).
The turbo will heat that manifold fast, All I have to do is start mine and its hot.
 
My car does the same thing i was beginning to wonder is the coolant parts were gone out. I can actually cook a steak on my engine. :dsm:
 
Since the Turbo is under your hood, your goign to see some higher temps, and Stock thermostats dump at 190, You may concider a lower Temperature Thermostat if High Temps worry you. My 1g has a 160 and It averages a temp of around 185.
 
Is the low temp t-stat something i can go to autozone and get? I always work on my car after coming back from a drive to set stuff differently and i cant keep getting water blisters in my palm...LOL
 
do you remember about how much it costs? I am lookin to get one also...I cant take the burns much longer I have no finger prints now.
 
dunno how hot the engine gets, but my valvecover is definitely hot enough to flake 500 degree paint off of it because that's what it is doing to my once-cool anodized red paint.

as far as the "thermostat" mod, you all better do some searching. I've come across some discussions about it in the past. I don't remember what the outcome is, but it may be worth your while.
 
and see thats funny because the guy i got my car from spray painted the valve cover gold and i cant get that off to save my life. It gets so hot but that spray paint won't peel...
 
95-DSM-RS said:
do you remember about how much it costs? I am lookin to get one also...I cant take the burns much longer I have no finger prints now.

Mine was 20 bucks from a store locally here in Lincoln.

Good luck fellas! :thumb:
 
The general concensus in most all cars is running a lower temp thermostat usually wears out your water pump quicker. And being that it takes so much time to change a wp in our cars, id probably just get another stocker. Then again this is coming from someone that has yet to put his thermostat back in :notgood: , i usually have a max cruising temp of about 169+/- a few degrees.
 
94Jettameowpsst said:
The general concensus in most all cars is running a lower temp thermostat usually wears out your water pump quicker. And being that it takes so much time to change a wp in our cars, id probably just get another stocker. Then again this is coming from someone that has yet to put his thermostat back in :notgood: , i usually have a max cruising temp of about 169+/- a few degrees.

cough cough bull sh*t, ummm no it don't man. ROFL
OK tell me this how is a thermostat harder on a water pump, its after it so whats the deal with changing it. ROFL
 
my coolent hose was leaking and i can tell you from experience, like some have said already, these cars get hot almost immedietly. be careful not to crack your block.
 
Ya my car ran at around 203 till i put a fmic on it. Now it sits at like 210-213. I put a slim line fan on while still using the stocker and that helped quite a bit.
 
My EGTs are usually between 1000 and 1400 degress. Alot depends on how long I've been driving. My car gets up to operating temperature really fast and it takes like half a day for it to cool off enough to work on it. That's the disadvantage to cast iron.
 
94Jettameowpsst said:
The general concensus in most all cars is running a lower temp thermostat usually wears out your water pump quicker.
If something is general consenus, that would mean most people have heard about this concept. Using a lower tStat has no bearing on water pump longetivity as far as I know. The pump is belt driven. What does the tStat have to do with water pump longetivity? If you're right, you need to explain why.

Using a lower temp tStat is a common modification on these cars. I've never, in almost a decade of owning a DSM, heard anyone say you shouldn't use a lower temp thermostat.
 
dsmlink showed me that with the fmic i was running around 225*. i flushed the system, new coolant(50/50 premix), can of water wetter, 180* tstat, and new cap, and temps went down to 210ish. then with the fmic off, i was seeing only 190*.

and thermostats have NO effect on the longevity of a water pump. thermostat or not, the pump still pumps the same amount of fluid. you could have a 190 or a 170 and it will make no difference on the amount of water the pump flows. driving agressively and lots of redlines will wear out the bearings quicker.
 
I've heard that a hotter engine runs more efficiently, but that could be wrong.

My valve cover doesn't get that hot. I can put my hand on it for a little bit. The exhaust manifold on the other hand gets really hot. I find that it usually takes a while for the car to warm up while driving, but if I just drive a little bit and shut it off, the temps will continue to rise. That exhaust manifold gets hot and spreads the heat to the rest of the engine. When I need my car to cool quick so I can work on it, I cool the exhaust manifold with water until it stops steaming (I don't mean just dump a bucket on it, that could crack it) and that helps the car cool down quite a bit. That's just a little tip.
 
wow my engine (Non-Turbo) used to get up to about 220 F. in summer and about 200F winter. It usually takes my engine (idling) about 20-30 minutes to get too hot to touch!
 
http://dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1632876#post1632876

Post number 5. This isnt the only time i have been given such authority when it comes to running w/out a thermostat or having a low temp thermostat. I personally dont understand how it could be that bad but if you think about it, it would actually make the waterpump work overtime. Im sorry if i spread misinformation, not just in this post, but thats just what i've been told. Now the car i have now i took the thermostat out to rule out a few problems and have yet to put it back in. Now, maybe its just irony, but one of my belts (which are all new) are seizing up on the middle pulley....the water pump, and its squealing. So...idk ill stick with the stock temp thermostat.
 
94Jettameowpsst said:
http://dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1632876#post1632876

Post number 5. This isnt the only time i have been given such authority when it comes to running w/out a thermostat or having a low temp thermostat. I personally dont understand how it could be that bad but if you think about it, it would actually make the waterpump work overtime. Im sorry if i spread misinformation, not just in this post, but thats just what i've been told. Now the car i have now i took the thermostat out to rule out a few problems and have yet to put it back in. Now, maybe its just irony, but one of my belts (which are all new) are seizing up on the middle pulley....the water pump, and its squealing. So...idk ill stick with the stock temp thermostat.

Your water pump runs off your belts so therefore it doesn't spin or rotate any faster the the belts make it.
 
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