Effects of lightweight flywheel? [merged] light weight lightened aluminum ACT fidanza - Page 9

dsmclipse97 · 09-21-2006, 01:21 PM

yea, screw the real LSD if your only going for 350hp, inserts are fine for anything less than 400hp. the 2600 is probably overkill as well for a FWD. good luck with the 16G and have fun

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 01:35 PM

Ok nevermind found a good place for the seals. Would i also need a rear main seal retainer? And for the axle seals, i am having someone do my clutch job for me, that would opened already for the clutch install anyways right? So most likely would not charge extra or much extra to install all those seals right? (rear main, and axle shaft seals) The axle shaft i would need left and right(sorry dumb question) but the store selling thme only list for front axle seals and doesn;t list for right and left for manual tranny axle seals. Assuming i would have to buy two of them i guess.

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 01:44 PM

The rear crank seal just "picks" out, no retainer required and they DON'T need to remove the housing. The output shaft (axle) seals are on the case where the axles go into the tranny. And both are the same...and of course you need 2 (one for each side). Also have the shop look at the retainer clip that holds the TOB on, if it's bent up or looks bad, replace it. It's cheap and you don't want to go back in because of a $3 part. Have them also check out the clutch fork and pivot ball, replace as needed. And also check the master and slave cylinders as well.

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FORMONTOYA

The rear crank seal just "picks" out, no retainer required and they DON'T need to remove the housing. The output shaft (axle) seals are on the case where the axles go into the tranny. And both are the same...and of course you need 2 (one for each side). Also have the shop look at the retainer clip that holds the TOB on, if it's bent up or looks bad, replace it. It's cheap and you don't want to go back in because of a $3 part. Have them also check out the clutch fork and pivot ball, replace as needed. And also check the master and slave cylinders as well.

Ok thanks alot. for the axle seals, are they both identical for each side? The store where i saw them being sold only list one for the manual car. So do i just need to purchase two of those? For auto they list left side and right side, but not for manual.
I also plan on just replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball regardless. Will have to check the master and slave cylinders also.

I also have a hard time getting into first gear so could that be from something with the cluth or more like a tranny fork problem?

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 02:06 PM

Yes, both sides of the manual are the same size. And yes, you need 2.

The hard time getting into 1st could be several things....the clutch. Synchros. Master and/or slave cylinders. Cables. Shifter. Or a combination of any of the above.

Although I would probably go with the "that's just how a lot of DSMs are" scenario. They come with a crappy shifter, IMO.

When I bought mine new it had to be put in 2nd then 1st for it to go into 1st with ease. Now that I have put in the shifter plate bushings and cable end bushings and gone to a B&M shifter I have a mechanism that is the way it should have been from the beginning. "Like butter" as the saying goes.

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 02:11 PM

Ok thanks i will order those parts now.

PUtting my car into got harder and harder over only 5 days that i drove it. Bought it and it was fine, got a little tougher and then so hard to get it in. Almost couldn;t get it in anymore. and then i heard a rattle which i beleive is a tob since it goes away when i push the clutch in. So i doubt that is just how the shifting is with this one, somehtin must have broken off. The owner before my installed some sort of short shifter, dont know which one. But this feels more like somehting in the tranny or clutch.

But anyways i will go ahead and order those seals for now. Would it be good to just replace the clutch master and slave cylinder no matter what?

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 02:14 PM

Ok sorry just to make sure this is what i need:

Mechanical Catalog - 1996 - Mitsubishi - Eclipse
Front drive axle, Drive axles, Differential, Axle seals, AXLE SEALS, Eclipse, 2.0L, w/Turbo, 2WD (2)----$8.40 for both

Mechanical Catalog - 1996 - Mitsubishi - Eclipse
Engine, Crankshaft and bearings, Rear main seal, REAR MAIN SEAL, Eclipse, w/Turbo - 2.0L - 2.0L ---$13.68

That should be good right? Just dont want to buy the wrong thing.

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 02:17 PM

Being that it's a 96 and you probably don't know if or when they were replaced....I would say yes, replace both.

Before you get to wound up on the clutch job, check your fluid levels. Check the carpet behind the clutch pedal. Especially behind the carpet as that's the first sign of the clutch master cylinder going out. And check for any fluid leaks at the front of the tranny around the front to rear cross member as that's the slave cylinder location. That might be your whole issue if it was fine and then over a few days or a week it started to take a dump and not go into gear.

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96gstdsm

Ok sorry just to make sure this is what i need:

Mechanical Catalog - 1996 - Mitsubishi - Eclipse
Front drive axle, Drive axles, Differential, Axle seals, AXLE SEALS, Eclipse, 2.0L, w/Turbo, 2WD (2)----$8.40 for both

Mechanical Catalog - 1996 - Mitsubishi - Eclipse
Engine, Crankshaft and bearings, Rear main seal, REAR MAIN SEAL, Eclipse, w/Turbo - 2.0L - 2.0L ---$13.68

That should be good right? Just dont want to buy the wrong thing.

Yes and yes. Those are the 3 seals needed.

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 02:23 PM

Ok thanks alot i will check that, but need to replace tob so i want to get a good clutch and flywheel no matter what.

Do you by chance know if it's true with the fadanza or maybe all lightweight flywheels if at slow creeping speeds the car tends to stall out? I have heard that from a few people.

And also would the act 2600 be over kill for daily driving? I want some resistance when i to push the clutch in but not alot. I dont like the super soft feel clutch's. Thats what i have now.

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 02:36 PM

Yes, that's why in post #4 I mentioned that for a DD it'll take a little getting used to. The lightened flywheel doesn't have enough mass and stalls easier, I personally don't care for it myself, but you can get used to it over time if you just have to have it.

A better choice if you're concerned might be the ACT streetlight flywheel. It's not quite as light as the Fidanza (8-9lbs), but at roughly 12 lbs it works nicely, plus it's not aluminum and not as easy to stall in traffic.

I run the ACT 2100, ACT streetlight FW, SBR LSD inserts in mine and think it's a great combination (for me).

The 2100 is really no difference to stock as far as "feel" goes. The 2600 is not much more expensive than the 2100, and you will "feel" the difference. Either way, I would recommend removing the "clutch safety start" wire so you don't have to have the clutch depressed to start the car. It's not proven, but some claim that having the clutch depressed during starting accelerates thrust bearing wear as there's no oil pressure during startup. Your call.

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 02:42 PM

Ok thanks alot think i will probably go with the act streetlight then. That is still light enough to notice a good difference in revs climbing i'm assuming? Never used a lightweight flywheel before so dont know what to expect.

FORMONTOYA · 09-21-2006, 02:46 PM

Yes, the throttle response is noticeable as the OEM flywheel is around 23ish LBS. You'll blow through 1st and 2nd gear in a heartbeat.

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 02:49 PM

Ok great thats just what i want! Thanks alot for your help i really appreciate it. Hopefully this will fix everything and i will be able to drive my car again(been a month and a half since i have and only drove it 5 days!) I'll post back about it after getting the clutch job.

99gst_racer · 09-21-2006, 03:46 PM

Yeah, I've been running the Fidanza flywheel/ACT 2100 combo for the past three years. It's been a great little set-up. And it recently held 400HP and 350 ft/lbs on the dyno for me, after three years of abuse.

I just pulled the clutch and flywheel off two days ago, and all is well. The clutch still has life left, and will be going in my buddy's 1G.

gsxpj6428 · 09-21-2006, 04:22 PM

i have a fidanza aluminum lightweight flywheel with a act 2100, works very well for street driving.

nightspeed87 · 09-21-2006, 04:31 PM

i have a fidanza 8lbs aluminum flywheel but its not installed yet, will let you know how it turns out because its going in nxt week with my new engine. By the way how much power/torque/ abuse can a 2600 take. I was thinking of that or a 2900 but I thought a 29 might be overkill ( I only have a fwd ) and I planned on getting upgraded racing tranny with lsd in the future. But my goal was like 400whp so I dont know if I will need something so drastic. ( But I like having extra insurance to that it will hold to everything I through at it and I wont have to ever go back in there again )

Oh and another quick random question by the way, how much power/ torque does the stock clutch hold up to ? ? ?

96gstdsm · 09-21-2006, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxpj6428

i have a fidanza aluminum lightweight flywheel with a act 2100, works very well for street driving.

Do you have any problems with the car wanting to stall out with due to such a light flywheel? Is it hard to drive it in stop and go traffic for you? I am not ever taking it to the track or anything so only dd. Was gonna get the fadanza but seems like it might be too light for daily driving. You experience any problems with it?

playitlouddsm · 09-21-2006, 06:39 PM

I run that combo and sometimes it seems to give me troubles in traffic. If i throw the car in neutral from high rpms it will want to stall everyonce in a while. Like stated before it really just takes a little getting used to.