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Newbie Forum Beginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this section.

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Old 02-28-2008, 08:54 AM   #391 (permalink)
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daren_p, thanks a lot man, and all of you guys, i really appreciate the feedback.
I think I will be going with the ACT Xact flywheel, thats the streetlite one, right?
just under 13lbs. Also some people were saying some stuff about stepping and all that ? Do i need to do anything with a flywheel when i get it? machining or anything? I want to know it wont blow my tranny apart after. Also the ACT 2100 comes stepped for that flywheel? I am not sure of all that stepping stuff, I am a total newb. Let me know guys please. I'll be getting my tranny rebuild by jackstrans, and I dont want to ruin it by getting a shitty flywheel, or not checking that stepping.
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Old 02-28-2008, 08:59 AM   #392 (permalink)
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Yeah, the streetlite is the one you want. The step should be just fine right out of the box, but some people are anal and like to double check it anyway.


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Old 02-28-2008, 09:47 AM   #393 (permalink)
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i am kind of anal, so i would like to double check to make sure.
i just take it to a machinist right?
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:53 AM   #394 (permalink)
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Yes, if you don't have a depth gauge a machinist can check it. I think the step should fall between .609-.612, but do a search to verify that.


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Old 02-28-2008, 10:45 AM   #395 (permalink)
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ACT2600 + Fidanza flywheel. The abrupt engagement took a bit of getting used to but noticable improvement in revs. It easier to drop revs when starting with the lighter weight flywheel but you just need to learn to compensate. Now I don't mind it as a daily driver.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:52 AM   #396 (permalink)
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thanks guys. I will check the step. I think I made my final decision to go with ACT XACT flywheel, and probably ACT 2100 or stage 2 excedy, I am going to look further into the Excedy one. I guess the ACT xact flywheel being a bit heavier than fidanza one will be more of a better choice for me as a dd.

Thanks a lot for all the input guys, helped me a lot with making my final decision on these parts.
I'll post after once i get the parts installed, on how it worked out.
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:29 AM   #397 (permalink)
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oh by the way, forgot to ask. Do I need to get some special bolts or anyting else with my flywheel?
Or stock is fine?
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:35 AM   #398 (permalink)
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Stock bolts work fine with the ACT. It's the same thickness. Some people like to replace them each time they are removed with new ones.

Edit: Don't forget to use locktite when reinstalling the flywheel and pressure plate bolts.


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Old 02-28-2008, 11:43 AM   #399 (permalink)
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i wont be doing the work. I have a local shop. Magnus Motorsports, that will do all the work. What is locktite ?I am assuming they will know to use it though.
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Old 02-28-2008, 11:47 AM   #400 (permalink)
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Magnus should certainly know what they are doing. Locktite is just a liquid you put on the bolts to keep them from working loose.


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Old 02-28-2008, 11:59 AM   #401 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBoxx View Post
I have a Fidanza flywheel in my car and honestly never noticed a difference.
+1. Couldn't tell a difference what so ever. I guess it does rev up a little quicker though. Hardly noticeable


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Old 02-28-2008, 12:02 PM   #402 (permalink)
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It seems most recommend to change the flywheel bolts when they do the clutch. Just get some new flywheel bolts from the dealer. I like to change mine as well as I don't like having to pull the tranny anymore then I have to. As for some more step info look here:

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

The ACT (or XACT) streetlight should be stepped correctly from the factory but I have heard a couple say theirs wasn't correct, so its always good to get it checked first. Once again better to make sure its right the first time. Think the above link will give you the info your after but basically the step is exactly what it sounds like, a step. In that the clutch isn't mounted directly to the flywheel friction surface level, it actually sits up on a step. If the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the step (where the clutch pressure plate is mounted) isn't correct you can have engaugement issues or can burn the clutch disk out.

While your in there its always a good idea to replace the fork & pivot ball with OEM parts & do the rear main crank seal as well. Another cheep & easy upgrade (usually around $25) is to get a stainless steel clutch line to replace the factory rubber line to the slave & it also gets rid of the stupied factory resevoir thingy, giving you a quicker/more positive clutch release.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:09 PM   #403 (permalink)
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daren, Thanks. Do you guys know the part number or where I can get the "rear main crank seal" ? Can't seem to find it.

Also I will be getting these:
new oem tob, new clutch kit, new oem fulcrum ball (pivot ball), new oem tob clip, new oem clutch fork, new oem master, new oem slave, new SS clutch line, new fluid, symborski kit, underhood bushings, short shifter.
Dunno if i am missing anything else, besides the flywheel bolts. and the rear main crank seal?
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:18 PM   #404 (permalink)
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Rear main seal - MD359158
TOB - MD749998
Pivot ball - MD719602
TOB clip - MD706185
Clutch fork - MD770506
Master - MB910562
Slave - MD749823
Flywheel bolts (x7) - MD302074

OEM Mitsubishi Parts


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Old 02-28-2008, 02:20 PM   #405 (permalink)
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Awesome!. thats what i needed. I am getting most of the OEM stuff from Jack though, but thats really good info, i'll keep that with me.
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:39 PM   #406 (permalink)
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Pressure plate bolts if you want everything.
That list you have is good. I did all of that when I had to get my transmission rebuilt.


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Old 03-12-2008, 07:35 AM   #407 (permalink)
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Steel or Aluminum flywheel w/ clutch change

Hey, I am going to order a bunch of parts to change my clutch when I take my car out because its pretty bad parts include...
1) ACT 2100 clutch
2)SS clutch line
3) B&M shifter
4) symborski shift kit
5)Throw out bearing + clip
6) Pivot ball
7) protane motor mounts
also... do you guys think I would need to get something like BG synchroshift?

now the question: I was planning on getting the ACT flywheel which is chromoly and weighs ~ 11.5lbs or something... but my friend said I should get a lighter flywheel like the Fidanza Aluminum flywheel which weighs ~8.5lbs... He also says I should get that Fidanza one because it has the removable surface which is cheap that You can buy when it needs resrfacing so you dont have to buy a whole new flywheel or get one resurfaced. Now im not sure if that light of a flywheel would be good for our dsms... Anyone able to give me pointers on which one i should buy..... Thanks a lot
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:27 AM   #408 (permalink)
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The chromoly flywheel is slightly heavier but a lot stronger. I suggest you get the steel one, the strength also makes it a lot safer and will wear better.


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Old 03-12-2008, 09:29 AM   #409 (permalink)
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go aluminum it'll be less power loss engine will rev slightly faster. Chromoly are use to more abuse but i've always ran aluminum and never had an issue. <-- except for the clutch disc on a gsx breaking but that was due to ragging it out hard... =)
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:03 PM   #410 (permalink)
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Aluminum ftw.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:12 PM   #411 (permalink)
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Thats 2 Aluminum > 1 chromoly so far..

Also do you guys think I should get BG synchroshift gear lube? only $33 for 3 bottles, so if it will help its not like im breaking the bank for it....
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