wonderful rod knock

[Kirkamus]

So I am posting today in response of which route I may need to go about with my car repair before I sell it. Car created Rod knock and nothing is known yet on the crank but it for sure is the rod. Taking crank to machine shop tomorrow to check it out as well. This would be the 3rd crank I will purchase for the car within 3000miles. ACL bearings ripped the 2nd one apart. Crankwalk from turbo failure took the first 1. Any way of finding a oem or unmolested crank anywhere without it being forged?

 

[donniekak]

Oem cranks are forged.

You need to start over. If the block crank walked i would not reuse The block. Also get a new crank, rods, lash adjusters, oil pump, oil squirters, and oil cooler. Have all galley plugs removed from the head, and cleaned with gun brushes.

 

[BogusSVO]

I want to know how ACL bearings ripped the crank apart.

Also How did a turbo fail cause your crank endplay to increase?

Donniekak is correct, the whole engine needs to come out and be cleaned thoroughly.

I will sort of agree with the block needs replaced, but it needs to be checked over and make sure the crank never got into the block.

 

[Kirkamus]

The block had been completely replaced with another after the first initial walk the turbo shot chunks of metal back into the engine which lead to crankwalk was what I was originally told and it had about 1/4th inch of crank play which he showed me by gently sliding it with a crow bar. We replaced that crank with a used one which we had to have turned and the acl main bearings he used failed on the thrust side within 800 miles. So we tore it down again had it all checked had to get a different crank Yet again. Got another for $125 from millerimports and had it balanced which took .020 over. Now the acl rod bearings failed.

 

[BogusSVO]

Wow.

First, I would say the turbo blowing chunks back into the engine had nothing to do with the crankwalk.

Most crank fails can be traced back to heavy clutches, wrong oil, or mis-alignment of the girdle.

I doubt you had a quarter inch of crank play, after about .060-.080 the thrust surface will be into the block main webbing.

Now, for crank #2 that failed in 800 miles, that sounds like girdle mis alignment.

For crank 3 that failed on the rods, Doubt the bearings are to blame, but a improperly cleaned crank. I would say you had the machine shop clean and grind the crank, but they did not pull the oil galley balls from the rod throws, and you washed the slag out into the bearings.

The 7 bolts have a finicky bottom end to assemble. If you really do not know the tricks to it the odds of it failing again are better than even.

 

[arrowhead]

I would change my machine shop.

Was there an oil cooler replaced.

Why would he use the block again and again, I agree with Bogus, no 1/4 end play,

No turbo doing the damage

No bearings doing the damage

Find somebody else to do your work.

 

[keltalon]

Wow.

Most crank fails can be traced back to heavy clutches, wrong oil, or mis-alignment of the girdle.

Dale what would be your recommendation on a good oil choice for our engines your opinions are held in high esteem! Thanks in advance.

 

[horizontalkev]

I don't know about bogus, but personally I only use Mobil 1 10W-30 in the summer, and 5W-30 in the winter on both my gsx and gs and 5W-30 year round in the 05 Tiburon GT.

 

[BogusSVO]

A 5w whatever is just too thin for most all 4g engines, that oil was not even out on the market when the 4g was being designed.

Keep to the 10w something oils on most 4g that see mainly DD, In the 400hp and lower.

Mobile 1 is not a bad oil for the engine, but FP says not to use it with the journal bearing turbos.

 

[JusMX141]

Crankwalk from turbo failure took the first 1.

Try again....only in reverse this time.

Keep in mind the turbo gets it's oil supply from the engine...not the other way around.

the first initial walk the turbo shot chunks of metal back into the engine which lead to crankwalk was what I was originally told

Nope.



Also, without turning this into an oil thread since we already have a couple thousand....Mobil 1 of today is not the Mobil 1 that existed 10 years ago. It's crap that has been ruined by the Government's strict emissions requirements for gasoline oils.

 

[DSM1G90]

but FP says not to use it with the journal bearing turbos.

How did they come up with this conclusion since 10w30 plus synth oils have been recommended for turbo vehicle usage? I've been using Mobile 1, 75k Mileage oil for quite the time with not problems- course, I'm a DD driver and all stock.

Are all of the TDO5H turbos, the journal bearing type?

 

[BogusSVO]

How did they come up with this conclusion since 10w30 plus synth oils have been recommended for turbo vehicle usage? I've been using Mobile 1, 75k Mileage oil for quite the time with not problems- course, I'm a DD driver and all stock.

Are all of the TDO5H turbos, the journal bearing type?

FP has the write up on there website.

The installed a new out the box FP turbo, did some tests. Then posted what they found.

 

[donniekak]

How did they come up with this conclusion since 10w30 plus synth oils have been recommended for turbo vehicle usage? I've been using Mobile 1, 75k Mileage oil for quite the time with not problems- course, I'm a DD driver and all stock.

Are all of the TDO5H turbos, the journal bearing type?

It's not so much the viscosity rating that is the issue. It's that all the non racing 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils have most of the zddp taken out of them to preserve catalytic converters. It's a high pressure additive that stops metal on metal contact. Without enough zddp thrust plates in journal bearing turbos eat themselves when the boost is turned up.
For what it's worth I run valvoline racing vr1 20w-50 and have never had an oil related failure.

 

[paack]

I am running 20W-50 Mobil in my 4g and that's the only way it wont use too much oil, should I switch to Valvoline VR1?

 

[NHerron]

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com
"Modern API certified oils have reduced zinc/phosphorus levels, and that now absent quantity of zinc/phosphorus has been replaced with alternate anti-wear components that are equal to, or better than zinc/phosphorus."

 

[keltalon]

How did they come up with this conclusion since 10w30 plus synth oils have been recommended for turbo vehicle usage? I've been using Mobile 1, 75k Mileage oil for quite the time with not problems- course, I'm a DD driver and all stock.

Are all of the TDO5H turbos, the journal bearing type?

The answer to your question is highlighted in red above! Modified high horsepower dsm needs zinc to withstand the turmoil that's exerted on an engine with the power levels we shoot for!

 

[DSM1G90]

^^^ Okey, looks like a concrete reason to follow.

Be the same with my tranny having over 198K miles on it and still shifts smooth, plus using Redline MT-90.