1G: more problems

[nasty_4g63]

So I fixed my intake manifold and now my check engine light is on. As soon as my car gets to about 4.5k it bogs out, back fires, and smells like it is running rich. I am so confused I feel like it is my O2 sensor the wires are really jacked up any ideas?

[bryanwheat]

Well the first thing to do when the check engine light comes on is to check for codes. There is no need to speculate anything until you figure out what code it is throwing.

[nasty_4g63]

this might be done but how do i figure that out on an obd1 car sorry this is my first dsm and all of my other cars were obd2

[steve]

1g Code Reader - CEL CODE READER

[nasty_4g63]

Thanks Steve I tryed to do a search last night but I was unable to find anything.

[Colt4G63 also]

So what code did you get?

[nasty_4g63]

Well i tryed to get it but when i turn my car on there is cel. i am almost positive it is on for an o2 because the wires on mine are beat on the car harness side. Am i able to solder them or should i but connect them. I hear that I shouldn't solder o2 wires. I made a video of what it is doing.
1990 eclipse gsx driving problem - YouTube

[TrevorS]

If there is a CEL, you need to read the code. There is a table in the shop manual and Haynes describing the meter behavior with an analog volt meter connected to the ECU read out port at the left underside of the dash, also points out the necessary connections to get the display.

The ECU reported code doesn't necessarily track it down to the specific failure, but it helps identify a functional region and then you can examine it further. Step one is to retrieve the supplied code.

[nasty_4g63]

I know that but the light only comes on ten mins after driving so should and when i turn the car off and start it again the light is gone for until i drive it for ten mins.

[pauleyman]

Check it anyway. Starting to sound like an ECU problem. CE lights generally don't just go away after a few min.

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by nasty_4g63

I know that but the light only comes on ten mins after driving so should and when i turn the car off and start it again the light is gone for until i drive it for ten mins.

Regardless to whether the light is on the code will be stored in the ecu. Check for codes. That is why the diagnostic system is there. Stop assuming that it is this or that. You will waste tons of money assuming and throwing parts at it. It is also perfectly fine to solder wires for the o2 sensor.

[nasty_4g63]

Ok the code is an 02 code

[GalantStroker]

Well, you have an o2 code, a sensor harness that is shot, and the symptoms of crappy driving in closed loop mode (which the car will only enter once it warms up a bit). I'd say you've found the culprit. I haven't had the opportunity to verify this yet, but most cars which use o2 sensors dont reference the sensor until they enter closed loop. This would in theory explain why the car runs fine until it warms up.

In the past, i had a car where the o2 sensor harness had melted a bit and two of the wires would occasionally short each other out which caused a similar condition to the one you are experiencing.

To add to what one of the other guys said, yes, it's fine to repair a burned o2 harness, just make sure the wire is as close to the same gauge as you can get it because going too far in one direction or the other could alter the resistance of the harness and affect the reading of the sensor.

Once you repair the harness you should be good to go.

[nasty_4g63]

I pulled a sensor clip from a 1g at the junk yard today

[iugrad92turbo]

glad you find the code i have several connectors for my dsms, most are shot over the many years.

[nasty_4g63]

Yeah the wires were not my whole problem but i an feeling like it might be my transistor pack because it is miss firing it actually sounds like a subaru. I just replaced my coil with a 91 coil so I feel like the transistor pack went out.