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Maintenance & Repairs: Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here.

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Old 11-06-2011, 03:05 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #861 (permalink)
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clipto's Avatar
Registered: Oct 2011
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Check voltage, also I would recommend 10w-30 oil for winter and cold starts.

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Old 11-06-2011, 03:27 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #862 (permalink)
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yes its not the battery im positive. its brand new. im definitely gonna check that sensor though. that was one of my suspicions.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #863 (permalink)
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+1 for coolant temp sensor
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:02 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #864 (permalink)
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Quote:
the starter itself is actually spinning but the rod that pushes the teeth on the flywheel isn't engaging.
minus 30 celcius .. plenty damned cold. Put a trouble light with a 100w clear bulb in the thing and place the light under the oil pan to keep the oil warm at nights

Starter operation primer 101:

two wires runs to the starter: one from the battery and the other one from the key. The key closes the current to the selenoid to pull the plunger in to make contact with the two contacts inside the back of the seleniod - where one contact is connected to that battery wire and the other contact heads to the starter motor.

the plunger is also attached to the mechanism that pushes the starter pinion gear forward to mesh with the flywheel. Thus, when you hit the key, the selenoid pulls the plunger in to the contacts to engage the motor while the shaft pushes out the pinon gear .. it all works together.

Those contacts have a habit of getting worn down where that ring on the plunger won't make a circuit to the motor.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #865 (permalink)
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I was gona say coolant temp sensor to!
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:16 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #866 (permalink)
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If it's not that you'll need to start with the basics. Check for boost leaks, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel quality, O2 sensor, possible MAF issue, ect.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #867 (permalink)
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sounds like a fuel pump. I would put a new fuel pump and fiter. i dont think an ecu would cause a hard start then run fine.
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:38 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #868 (permalink)
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i dont think an ecu would cause a hard start then run fine
Guess again ... they can...
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #869 (permalink)
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These all sound like fuel pressure/fuel pump problems. Very cheap places to start.

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Old 11-08-2011, 03:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #870 (permalink)
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Question

Car wont start, Cas faulty??


hi there guys my problem here is my car wont start for nothing, in rare times it tries to start but to no avail. but i checked all over the spark,compression,coil and all but i have this problem with the cas that theres 4 wires there, the two ones with voltage are red with 12.0v and yellow with 4.8-5.2, the yellow one i connect it to the cas and the car with the ignition on and it only gives me 0.19v-0.20v all the time.if i disconnect it it gives me the 4.8v required. but once i connect it again it only gives 0.19v, the red one is always good. but don't know whats happening there! any ideas guys??? or suggestions??

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Old 11-08-2011, 05:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #871 (permalink)
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On a side note I'm almost certain it has to deal with my signal trip wire to the fuel pump because sometimes when it wouldn't start I never heard the fuel pump (even with the new relays) and I see all electrical tape from the relay connector wires.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #872 (permalink)
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no start- massive fuel leak


Two months ago I bought a 92 gsx with a blown head gasket. After I took it apart, got the machine work done, and reassembled the motor I got all new belts and gaskets.. When I tried to start the car it would NOT start. At this point I checked for leaks and found a massice puddle of gas, yes GAS, under the car leaking at cyl #1 tight by the turbo manifold.


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Old 11-08-2011, 07:27 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #873 (permalink)
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Check your injector seals, if it's really a massive puddle of gas are you sure your fuel return line is hooked up?

When I forgot to hook up my return line to the stock fpr the car still started just fine so that's why I'm thinking seals. Is your fuel rail leaking at the o-rings?


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Old 11-09-2011, 12:22 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #874 (permalink)
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I have double checked everything near the fuel rail and even went as far as to replace the return line. the leak is running down the exhaust side of the head.


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Old 11-09-2011, 07:29 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #875 (permalink)
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ok if any one can help i recorded the sound on my phone and trying to upload it on here but not to sure on how by i sent it to my email address. I think i have it but let me know if it works and what you think it is...

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send me an email and i can try to forward it to you and hopefully the sound works with it

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Old 11-09-2011, 10:16 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #876 (permalink)
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It didn't listen to the sound bit but it could be the starter or slipping belt or crank pulley.

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Old 11-09-2011, 10:37 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #877 (permalink)
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Sounds weird, like you're not getting spark and causing it to flood, and leaking out the headgasket? That badly though?

I am pretty lost on this one. We need a wiseman.


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Old 11-09-2011, 10:40 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #878 (permalink)
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The ECU's injector driver circuit could be bad and holding open the injectors, rather than pulsing them, which would flood the motor. Pull the fuel rail and rest a 5 gallon bucket on top the of the engine, have someone crank the motor while you watch the injectors. Make sure each and everyone of them is PULSING, not just dumping fuel.

Don't keep trying it, especially if its coming out of the exhaust side. That means you're filling the CC up with fuel and its coming back up through the exhaust valves and leaking out of the ex. manifold. You'll wash your cylinder walls and seize the motor up, you'll also want to change the oil once you fix the issue.



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Last edited by gofer; 11-09-2011 at 08:23 PM. Reason: spelling.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:41 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #879 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh90laser View Post
Just got the ngk you said. What about gap?
I gap 'em to .025 but I'm running some more boost.. you should try .028.

And use a feeler gauge, NOT a round spark plug gapper.


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Old 11-09-2011, 01:41 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #880 (permalink)
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I'm wondering about blockages or issues in your piping - if you had the SMIC disconnected, then the car was drawing air directly into the throttlebody and not pulling it in through the maf.

Also with everything hooked up you could try unplugging the MAF and seeing what happens - when I had issues with my MAF it would actually start and run without the MAF plugged in and would not run with the MAF plugged in.

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