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Maintenance & Repairs: Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here.

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Old 11-24-2011, 11:52 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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2G-specific

Clutch disengagement issues!!!!


So here is what i've done. (95 gsx)

Brand new act 2100 and light weight fly. I replaced the slave cylinder (It was leaking at a seal). I properly bleed the clutch with a friend. There wasnt any air in the lines at all. The fluid level is on the money.

Here's my issue.
After bleeeding the slave out with no air in the system the clutch engagement (You can feel it) is almost all the way to the floor. Its sloppy peddal (just enough pressure to return when pressed down) all the way through then it gets really stiff right near the floor and thats when you can feel the clutch engage. So I was thinking that there might still be air in the line... wrong!!!! It goes through the gears fine when its not started but when its running it will only go in when I am mashing the pedal to the floor and even then you cant drive it because when you try to ease the pedal out it just pops and stalls.

Am I looking at a master issue? Maybe a rebuild of the master?

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Old 11-25-2011, 12:25 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Have you tried to adjust the rod on the master cylinder yet?

Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube

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Old 11-25-2011, 07:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanwheat View Post
Have you tried to adjust the rod on the master cylinder yet?

Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube
Agreed! If bleeding is not fixing the problem then the next step would be master cylinder rod adjustment. It's a pretty easy fix.

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Old 11-26-2011, 03:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Yeah I alreeady watched that video like five times and believe I have it done correctly but I still am not having any luck.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:09 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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you may have to pull the Trans if youve bled and replaced the hydraulics.

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Old 11-27-2011, 11:47 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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I already pulled the trans and swapped out the clutch and p.p That was the first thing I did thinking that that was the problem! But after throwing it all together again the problem is still haunting me. The old clutch and p.p look really good too... when I bought the thing the previous owner said that he just replaced it and that looks to be the case. Anymore ideas?
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:18 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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You didn't replace the clutch fork and pivot ball though did you? That is a pretty common problem in these cars. I would pull the transmission and shim the pivot ball and see where you are.

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Old 11-28-2011, 12:57 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I had the same exact problem with my install. The only thing that fixed it was when I REDID the tranny job, I DID NOT bleed the clutch and it worked. Till this day I'm baffled at how that would of helped!


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Old 11-28-2011, 04:33 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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+ 1 for shift fork and pivot ball had same problem with mine now shift great!

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Old 11-29-2011, 12:55 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Is there any way of replacing the fork and pivot ball without pulling the entire trans again? I just got the thing baack together and it was kinda a long process with going to class every day and working thid shift mon-fri...
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:29 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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No, you are going to have to completely separate the transmission from the engine to get in there and change it.

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Old 11-29-2011, 02:42 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Ha ha did the same thing. Had to pull it out again. It goes much fastet with how to do it fresh in your head the 2nd time around

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Old 11-29-2011, 04:29 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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1 day process..take a Saturday or Sunday off, and do it. not too bad teh 2nd time around, hardest thing is taking all the thing around the trans, to get to the trans and drop it.. ..

Good Luck..


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Old 12-02-2011, 04:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Started tarring the thing apart last night because when I looked at the fork it was running into the bell housing everytime the clutch pedal was pressed in. Shim time!
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Sorry for hijacking but you guys mean to say that the transmission can be removedwhith engine left intact? I thought the whole mess had to come out engine/trans. Thanks!


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Old 12-05-2011, 12:44 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Trans can come out without the removal of the motor.
-Shane

BTW I just got done with this problem, my clutch setup needed to be replaced.

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Old 12-08-2011, 06:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine5TalonTSi View Post
Sorry for hijacking but you guys mean to say that the transmission can be removedwhith engine left intact? I thought the whole mess had to come out engine/trans. Thanks!
Trans can be removed without the engine. Engine can't be removed without the trans if its manual. Unless of course the trans is removed first. If its auto engine can be removed without trans leaving trans in car.

also act 2100 clutch setups are known to have engagement issues where an extended slave cylinder push rod is required. So after shimming is complete and you still have engagement issues make sure the clutch pedal is adjusted. If adjustment does't fix shifting problem ( Its sloppy peddal (just enough pressure to return when pressed down) all the way through then it gets really stiff right near the floor and thats when you can feel the clutch engage) then you may need an extended push rod. eBay lol


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Last edited by MJcanada; 12-08-2011 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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I would never shim the pivot ball, did it and pulled the tranny a 3rd time! just buy a new one it is like $12 on extremepsi.com. Me and a few buddies pulled my tranny about 2 weeks ago to replace mine. We had it out and back in, in 3 and a half hours. If you pump the pedal a few times before shifting does it help? If everything is bled good and the master cylinder rod is adjusted properly you SHOULDN'T need an extended push rod. Also if your slave was bad your master may be also or follow shortly. I would start with trying to adjust the rod and see where that gets you?


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Old 12-15-2011, 02:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Finally all put back together... the pivot ball shims worked like a charm. bled the lines and the clutch pedal feels like new again! thanks to all for the input on my issues! check this one off the list now.
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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I'm having the same issue as the o.p. and I have to ask how much are you guys having to shim the pivot ball. Cause I've pulled my trans 3 times replaced the clutch 3 times. Same problem again. So how far all you all shimming the pivot ball. Cause it seems like I need about a half of an inch of travel.
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