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Maintenance & Repairs: Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here.

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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1G-specific

My car is hard to start sometimes and idle changes with outside temperatures change.


Sometimes when i go start my car up it will crank over n over n over but wont turn on then i will stop for a few seconds and try again and it takes a couple cranks and turns on but takes a few seconds to get the idle where it should be this only seems to happen when the temps outside are 50f and above on coldstarts.

I know its not these parts because i just put them in:
Spark plugs have 2000 miles
Ignition wires have 2300 miles
Brand new alternator n belt just installed 1000miles
Battery Tested and putting out excellent volts.
New oem pcv valve 2300 miles

This been goin on even before i changed these parts it does it only once in a while and but most of the time it will fire right up in one crank no matter what the temp is outside.

The fuel pressure solenoid and purge control solenoid valve has been deleted can this be why my car is hard to start in warmer temps?

Also noticed my idle is lower in warmer outside temperatures then in colder can it be my mafs goin bad or this coolant temp sensor? Like today it was 70f and the idle wasnt as high as it would be in 30f.


Last edited by talontsiboy24; 04-04-2011 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:11 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Have you checked the coolant temp sensor? If it's reading wrong it'll cause that.


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Old 03-15-2011, 11:14 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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If it cranks and cranks and cranks like you said it does sometimes, I highly doubt it's your starter. I think it's passed the starter test.

Maybe you need to check your coolant temp sensor as they like to cause hard starting problems. Good luck!


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Old 03-15-2011, 11:16 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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1. Hmm, the hard start could be the FPR not holding fuel pressure and taking extra cranks to make the pressure needed to start.

2. As for the idle, does it idle really low at first(500-600rpm) then slowly build up? And is it worse on warm starts when the car has been sitting for like 20-30 minutes?

My car does number 2. and i'm stumped.


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Old 03-15-2011, 11:19 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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also check your battery connection

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:22 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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+3 on the Coolant Temp Sensor. Check the connection. Over time the wires around the thermostat housing tend to get very brittle and break. The sensor is the one towards the bottom with two wires. The one with one wire is for the temp gauge. and the one towards the top is for the A/C.

The ECU adjusts the Air/Fuel ratio depending on the temperature of the coolant. If the wire is broke, the ECU thinks it's -79 degrees(don;t quote me) and it will take forever to start.

This tread has some decent pictures.

93 talon coolant temp sensor

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Old 03-15-2011, 12:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MQTalon92 View Post
+3 on the Coolant Temp Sensor. Check the connection. Over time the wires around the thermostat housing tend to get very brittle and break. The sensor is the one towards the bottom with two wires. The one with one wire is for the temp gauge. and the one towards the top is for the A/C.

The ECU adjusts the Air/Fuel ratio depending on the temperature of the coolant. If the wire is broke, the ECU thinks it's -79 degrees(don;t quote me) and it will take forever to start.

This tread has some decent pictures.

93 talon coolant temp sensor
i pulled the connectors off the sensors and found them to be very dirty so i wiped them clean and put the connectors back so will see if that helped any.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talontsiboy24 View Post
i pulled the connectors off the sensors and found them to be very dirty so i wiped them clean and put the connectors back so will see if that helped any.
Keep us posted, not only that but the sensor itself might be causing the issue. Let' see how that goes, let us know.
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Keep us posted, not only that but the sensor itself might be causing the issue. Let' see how that goes, let us know.
Yea cleaning the connectors did nothing still was hard to cold start the car so should i just go by a new coolant temp sensor its $17.99 at autozone or does it have to be oem? Also heard if its bad it will throw a cel but i have no cel lights on?

Last edited by talontsiboy24; 03-17-2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:58 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Mines doing the same thing...last time it was fixed by tightening the alt belt.Idk why but that fixed it.

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Old 03-19-2011, 10:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Mines doing the same thing...last time it was fixed by tightening the alt belt.Idk why but that fixed it.

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Def not my alternator belt it has a brand new alternator and belt and its on tight.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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you got the vacuum lines that runs to that thermal valve closed off, for if not, you got major vacuum leaks.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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you got the vacuum lines that runs to that thermal valve closed off, for if not, you got major vacuum leaks.
where do those lines connect to from the thermal valve?
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:37 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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You had your EGR system eliminated somehow, for the two lines runs to the two connections of the EGR and intake manifold.

It runs in a loop system that operates both sides of the EGR diaphram - it's a "push and pull" type of EGR valve.

There should be two connections by the throttle plate that should be closed off if the vacuum lines to the EGR and this thermal valve are missing.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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I had that kind of problem when I first swap my new motor in my 1990 talon awd. try to mess around with the wiper relay by the battery on the firewall. I was messing with that and that solve my problem.

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Old 03-25-2011, 02:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Now that the temps are down in the 30s my car fires up right away i think it starts doin this when its warmer out so should i just get a new coolant temp sensor and see what happens i mean its only $17 and i can always return it what do guys think? bwd or duralast coolant temp sensor or has to be oem?

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Old 03-25-2011, 05:02 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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replace fuel filter but it sounds like is temperature sensor
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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I think if you have the option of returning to the store, get one and see if it will work but as far as the

best brand I would stay with the OEM because it is made for your specific car. I know it is pricey but in

my opinion its the best solution. I had the same issue but it was not the temp sensor, it was the one of

the two solenoid that sits on top of the brake fluid reservoir. My Fuel pressure control solenoid valve

was toast. The shop that I went to did bypass it and the car did start a lot faster.

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Old 03-27-2011, 10:15 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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I had that kind of problem when I first swap my new motor in my 1990 talon awd. try to mess around with the wiper relay by the battery on the firewall. I was messing with that and that solve my problem.
What do you mean you "messed around with it"? Was it loose or did you replace it? I am having a similar issue: Trouble starting when cold.. Let me know, thanks!


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Old 03-27-2011, 11:25 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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If the car has been driven and fully warmed up when i shut it down couldnt i remove the connector on the coolant temp sensor and hook up a multimeter to it and see if its working i mean wouldnt the sensor still be hot when i turn the car off? What should i set my multimeter to when checking it 0hms?
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