Brain, I remember Drew talking about upgrading from a fwd to an awd master cylinder. The awd master cylinder is only an upgrade if the the fwd is not equipped with ABS. Is that the upgrade you are talking about, or is he trying a different MC altogether?
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-Erik
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Evo 8/9 master cylinder is definitely 1-1/16. Says 17/16th in CAP.
Brian, if the Evo bore is larger and the stroke is the same we know how much more fluid it moves. However, if the stroke is different than a DSM the MC could be moving more or less fluid per travel of the pushrod.
Hmm, I don't know. Maybe the bore size is all that matters. ...Unless you run out of stroke in the DSM master cylinder.
It's just trying to match up the master cylinders along with pedal leverage etc that is throwing me off. I think it's trial and error really. If it ends up working for everyone that seems to be upgrading now, great. If not, then it'd be nice to know our options.
Has someone done calculated the total piston areas of all the brake options, front and rear? (stock single and dual piston, Evo Brembos front and/or rear, CTSV, etc). Just because the brakes are larger and have more pistons doesn't necessarily mean the total piston area is larger. I'd love to see some type of comparison chart of all the options, in particular the front and rear piston area bias of various options, so as to get an idea of the brake force distribution change, and if there is a change, if it's small enough to be corrected by different brake pad mu, for instance... And if and when a master cylinder change is required, and by how much.
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2.3L GT30R, E85'ed GSX...road racing FTW!
-Beau
Also, something I notice on that post. Not all 2G proportioning valves are the same. Non-abs cars with the 6-port proportion valve send less pressure to the rear calipers than an abs car.
I'm abandoning the idea in favor or fitting the evo8 calipers with 14" rotors with an adapter bracket instead.
The remaining things to investigate were:
find the GXP brembo caliper piston diameter
do more research on the 6-piston cts-v offset and needed brake rotor
The Evo8 never came with 14" rotors, I don't see the point of doing it. Is there a reason? Gixxerdrew showed a while back that a good upgrade for the Evo8 calipers was getting the Performance Friction rotors. Last I heard Drew was upgrading to Alcon brakes, maybe he might be willing to part with those Performance Friction rotors.
Quickly bolted up the CTS-V caliper last night. It did not come loaded, like I thought it would!! UGH! So I'm going to have to locate pins and springs and pads. They do fit underneath a 17" rim. The only huge problem is how far they stick out the CTS-V caliper's are very wide, wider than EVO. My 38 offset wheel hits the caliper horribly when bolted up normally. Shaving down the caliper mounting tabs will bring the caliper in up to 10mm. I wouldn't shave more than that for strength reasons, The caliper will not line up with EVO rotor offset if shaved down at all. This project almost seems that your wheel setup will be entirely dependant on what rotor you can use. If you use an 18" rim with larger offset and wheel spacers this might work on EVO VIII rotor so you don't have to shave anything off the caliper itself. I want to keep the 17" at all cost.
So I have found a rotor that is 12.8" with an offset almost double the EVO with a thinkness of 1.20" also. I'm thinking about shaving the caliper mounting ears 10mm on the opposite side the guy on DSMtalk did and than mounting the Caliper on the opposite side of the knuckle mounting ears This will push the caliper inwards about 15-20mm. Allowing me to clear my wheel. I'll have to get some pictures this weekend to better illistrate what I mean.
I do not think a 14" rotor will be possible there is not enough room for the rotor it will hit the top of the caliper when mounted.
figured i would chime in and say im on the OEM AWD MC with evo brembos all around, and it stops like a dream. free play in minimal, brakes are strong, and couldnt ask for anything more. IMO the perfect Road Course brake setup. (besides the weight of the 13" front rotors)
figured i would chime in and say im on the OEM AWD MC with evo brembos all around, and it stops like a dream. free play in minimal, brakes are strong, and couldnt ask for anything more. IMO the perfect Road Course brake setup. (besides the weight of the 13" front rotors)
13" rotors still "weight" more then OEM solid 11" rotors... thus the comment about added weight. im by no means saying its not WORTH the added weight, any time you add more surface area to any rotating object, extending the distance from the center to the outer edge its going to add the effect of "mass", regardless of its actual weight. i suppose i should have worded it differently. perhaps as a direct result of torque on the object (in this case the rotor) the larger the diameter of the rotor, the higher torque will be applied not only by the caliper when stopping, but also by the axles during acceleration. this in turn means more force is needed to change the rotors rotational momentum. I.E. speeding up AND slowing down
No, I understand that. I was just saying that to offset some of that, there are 2 piece rotors available for a decent price. Not to mention the added benefit of better heat dissipation.
For my dedicated roadrace car I'm going with the Evo Brembos, 2 piece rotors, Ti shims (can get a discount on these for anybody who wants them), Motul RBF 600 and Hawk race pads.
No, I understand that. I was just saying that to offset some of that, there are 2 piece rotors available for a decent price. Not to mention the added benefit of better heat dissipation.
For my dedicated roadrace car I'm going with the Evo Brembos, 2 piece rotors, Ti shims (can get a discount on these for anybody who wants them), Motul RBF 600 and Hawk race pads.
The hat isn't designed for heat transfer, the fact it heats up is a side affect of being physically bolted to the iron rotor. Its for MOI reduction and putting the rotor weight where its needed most critically, directly beneath the brake pad.
For those of you wondering about the master cylinder, you can use the master cylinder from a Z32 (Nissan 300zx turbo). I'm running it with a larger 3g GT eclipse booster in my car. The cylinder is 1 1/16" depending on year. Lines are the same 10mmx1.0mm, they just need to be bent into place. You will also need to give the shock tower a little loving with a ball peen to clear part of the cylinder.
Be careful as there were 3 different sizes of cylinders in the z32: 15/16", 1", and 1 1/16". There were two suppliers as well--Tokiko and Nabco. Mine is a Nabco 1 1/16".
thus the comment about added weight. im by no means saying its not WORTH the added weight, any time you add more surface area to any rotating object, extending the distance from the center to the outer edge its going to add the effect of "mass", regardless of its actual weight. i suppose i should have worded it differently. perhaps as a direct result of torque on the object (in this case the rotor) the larger the diameter of the rotor, the higher torque will be applied not only by the caliper when stopping, but also by the axles during acceleration. this in turn means more force is needed to change the rotors rotational momentum. I.E. speeding up AND slowing down 
