The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Won’t align after drop, Help!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wrcruz

20+ Year Contributor
47
0
Nov 5, 2002
Just drop my car today. But one problem came up, the front end won’t align. The caster and camber are max out and still is like 1.5 degrees off. I have Eibach sport line springs on it. My ? is, if I get the caster/camber adjustable plate, will it solve the problem. Just want to get some feed back because they are like $299.00 for the pair. If anyone has them, please let me know how they work out.
Thanks, William
 
This is my first time here and thought i'd put in my .02 in
Have you oblonged the lower strut bolt hole so you can make
your camber adjustment +/- ?

Also as far as your Caster all it has to be is with in .5 from
eachother ... Say your l/f caster is + 2.1 and your r/f is +1.8
they are withing the .5 . this is called cross caster .....

What are your reading as of right now ? please include weather
it's +/- ..... i'm a "A" Tech and a Master Alignment tech through
Hunter .....Also tell me the Spec's i think i might be able to help
you out in this area ......

Frank
 
These are the values that I got from firestone.

Front Right
Camber -1.51
Caster +2.67

Front Left
Camber +0.32
Caster +3.42

Am thinking about installing the eccentric bolts that adjust +/-1.
Do you think these will fix the problem.
 
ok i'm back again , damn this place is like an addiction ...LOL
,
but anyway yes the bolt's will work but you still will have to oblong
the lower strut bolt hold , depending on what bolt you go with ...
you want the value's to be as close to zero as possible and then you can make your adjustment's on how you like your car to perform to your driving style .... But first you need to make sure you have enough
adjustment to achieve this ....

By oblonging the lower bolt hole on the strut that will allow you
make both +/- adjustment's with ease ....
how to do this is by removing the lower bolt and pushing on the top of the wheel in so the bottom of the strut is far enough away from the spindle as not to damage it ...
Now when you look at the bolt hole what you wanna do is start grinding
from the inside of the bolt hole to the left and then to the right side
making an ovol slot to adjust your camber ... But when doing this try not to make the hole larger in diameter than the bolt it self , because when you tighten the bolt it will just slide through the strut and not secure the strut to the spindle .......
 
and for as far as the caster you can do one of my trick's :shhh:
you take the the nut holding the upper strut into the strut tower
and lowering the strut down so that the bolt hole's are now open
and free using a small grinder oblong the hole's from fromt to
back so when the strut is in place and in the alignment shop all
they have to do is loosen the upper strut mount bolt's and slide
the top of the strut to make the adjustment ....But one thing you
should tell them when you bring the car in is that you oblonged
lower strut bolt hole's on both side's for the camber and the upper
hole's for the caster so they can make the adjustment's .....

The only reason for telling them this is because if they don't know
this ahead of time they will pull the car off the lift and say you
need to get some B/S kit to allow your car to be aligned

if any question's my yahoo ID is fegan67 message me and i can give you my number and i could be able to answer your question's !

Frank
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top