Driver's Side Front Caliper Locking Up...

[Psycron]

...So I bought a new, fully built dual piston caliper to replace it. I searched extensively but was unable to find the information I was looking for. What I need to know is this - What is the proper method for replacing just this caliper? Can I just take the caliper off and replace a single caliper then bleed until there is no air or do I have to bleed the other 3 as well? I've never done this before, but I bought a mitey-vac pump to assist me in this one-man job.

I will need jack stands in the front, correct? From the research I've done I can disconnect the caliper, reassemble then bleed and test drive. I'm not sure how I use the vacuum pump, either. Would it be a good idea to flush at this time? I know it will take much longer, but if it's a worthwhile necessity then I'll do it.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

-Alan

 

[steve]

Did your car have the dual piston calipers and larger rotors on it already? (Normally a '92 wouldn't unless it's been upgraded)
Did you get a new caliper to match your style of brake hose. (sometime around '94/'95 the brake hoses switched from a pipe thread to a banjo bolt.)

The Big Brake VFAQ covers the install part pretty well. Unless your brake system has been flushed in the past few years I'd recommend flushing by bleeding all the lines until you start seeing clean fresh brake fluid.

I haven't used a mitey-vac but I believe you attach it to the bleeder nipple, pump it to create a vacuum, open the bleeder valve and continue pumping, close the bleeder, check the level at the master cyl and top off. repeat until no air bubbles are seen in line.

Steve

 

[Psycron]

Car came off the line May, 1992. I specified the year/make/model info when ordering the caliper from my local import parts place, I'm sure they gave me the correct caliper and there's only one piston. Guess I thought it was just 2 pistons.

How do I make sure there's no bubbles left? the bleeder comes out the side of the caliper, right? I would use the right size plug attached to the clear silicone tube and open up the bleeder valve and pump so all the air goes up the line and out of the reservoir? If this sounds right, I'll go ahead and do it.

 

[steve]

Originally posted by Psycron
How do I make sure there's no bubbles left? the bleeder comes out the side of the caliper, right? I would use the right size plug attached to the clear silicone tube and open up the bleeder valve and pump so all the air goes up the line and out of the reservoir? If this sounds right, I'll go ahead and do it.

Sounds about right. You watch for bubbles in the tubing from the bleeder nipple. Once they stop your done.
I'd really take the time to bleed all four wheel and flush all the old fluid out.
Correction According to the manual you start with pass rear, then driver front, then driver rear, and pass front last. Keep a close watch on the fluid level at the master cyl so you don't suck air into the system.

Steve

 

[Psycron]

Okay, great! Thanks for the help. Note to self: bubbles will go DOWN since I'm SUCKING the fluid into the pump? Then I replace the fluid in the reservoir when there's no more bubbles in the system...test drive and it's all good! Thanks for all the help, Steve.

 

[steve]

Originally posted by Psycron
Then I replace the fluid in the reservoir when there's no more bubbles in the system..

No, you replace the fluid in the reservoir as needed to keep it from running dry and sucking air.
Since you could be sitting in the wheel well bleeding the system like crazy you need to keeps an eye on it so you don't drain all the brake fluid in the reservoir.

Steve

 

[Psycron]

Alright, noted. Should be a piece of cake. Thanks again...

Al