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Handling Tech Suspension, steering, brakes, tires, lightweight wheels, bushings, etc.

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Old 07-24-2008, 02:14 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by marcmsj View Post
I've also heard of some people using a Mini's pump which has the added bonus of having a built in reservoir. Maybe we should look into that as well.
Try those and the NSX pump as well. Anyone know how a fiero was configured? If they had electric power steering, the system is probably really easy given that it is a GM product and all


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Old 07-24-2008, 02:17 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Thanks for all that info gixxerdrew. Unfortnately I don't have AEM (yet!) so i'd be relying on the good old toggle on/off switch in case I decided to do this. Which doesn't really bother me really.

I guess you have the added advantage of having a shop do it that's already done it and knows what to come across. Did you already have the pump or you're waiting on it? When do you think you'll have it done? Some pics would also be nice
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:21 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Anyone know how a fiero was configured?
They all had manual steering. NSX pumps would probably be very hard to come by.

I think some older cavaliers had electric power steering though.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks for all that info gixxerdrew. Unfortnately I don't have AEM (yet!) so i'd be relying on the good old toggle on/off switch in case I decided to do this. Which doesn't really bother me really.

I guess you have the added advantage of having a shop do it that's already done it and knows what to come across. Did you already have the pump or you're waiting on it? When do you think you'll have it done? Some pics would also be nice
Mechanically its very simple and I would have done it myself if I could. You just run the line to high pressure side and the other line to low pressure side since this pump came with the reservoir its even simpler. Next make up some hoses and thats about it, although having a hydraulic shop make the lines is easy/cheap and if I was doing it myself here I would have done it that way. The fab shop is great for making the mount brackets and stuff so it was much easier to have him do it all. For the wiring I am just having him take the power lead right off the alternator as it wont be on when the engine is cold or cranking anyway.

I already have the pump, it's at the shop now. You can email him and ask him if he'll make a DSM kit for use with MR2 pump?


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Old 07-24-2008, 03:05 PM   #35 (permalink)
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You can email him and ask him if he'll make a DSM kit for use with MR2 pump?
That's not a bad idea.

But yeah I knew it wasn't that involved, just a matter of fabricating the mount and some lines. I'll definitely keep that as an option though.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:22 PM   #36 (permalink)
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If you read into it more, there is concern about how the pump is running. Because he isn't using the 2 smaller wires, the pump is running at full capacity all of the time vs the controller that is based off of a few sensors from the MR2. The only concern there is longevity of the pump life. Someone else posted a link to a guy who made the stock MR2 controller work in his s10 or something like that.

I still think if you have the right standalone, you can easily run the pump off of that, I could be wrong though.
No standalone in this lifetime. I'll have to do a bit of brainstorming and maybe find out what makes the MR2 controller click.


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Old 07-24-2008, 04:33 PM   #37 (permalink)
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No standalone in this lifetime. I'll have to do a bit of brainstorming and maybe find out what makes the MR2 controller click. Since the car only sees a couple thousand miles per year at the very most, I could throw the dice and let it run wild.
Same theory that the honda guy had.


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Old 08-28-2008, 08:54 AM   #38 (permalink)
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My system came out great. Just as I hoped this huge pump actually is very quiet and does not pull very much juice. Way less than my radiator fans even.

This is where I had him install it, in the drivers fender, you can see the cooler, 100 amp relay and part of the duct work which I need to finish


view from above: in this pic you can see where he welded a -6 fitting to the stock pressure line and normal rubber hose for the low pres side.

The filler is poking through the hole in the stock fender so it can be filled from above per my design.



On a side note the standard AN Fitting separated from the hose and I'll be having it redone by the hydraulic shop with pressed crimped fitting. My guess is that pressure was too high 1200+PSI for a 'standard' type AN fitting
View from the top where the fill is:


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Old 08-28-2008, 09:10 AM   #39 (permalink)
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was this your pump? Looks like a mini cooper

http://www.minicarparts.net/product/...6.778.425K.jpg
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:05 AM   #40 (permalink)
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definately not, that pump looks quite a bit different.


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Old 08-28-2008, 11:19 AM   #41 (permalink)
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definately not, that pump looks quite a bit different.
With how often you are using it, do you think that it matters if you have a ps cooler? Most loop their lines when they do a front mount install, but that is with a mechanical pump.


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Old 08-28-2008, 11:22 AM   #42 (permalink)
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With how often you are using it, do you think that it matters if you have a ps cooler? Most loop their lines when they do a front mount install, but that is with a mechanical pump.
I am drawing on my experience with road course (SCCA and Time Attack) cars that a power steering cooler is necessary. My cooler is probably much bigger than needed though.

My power steering will be switching between two modes high and low depending on vehicle speed.


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Old 08-28-2008, 11:28 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I am drawing on my experience with road course (SCCA and Time Attack) cars that a power steering cooler is necessary. My cooler is probably much bigger than needed though.

My power steering will be switching between two modes high and low depending on vehicle speed.
voltage regulator I assume? Thanks for the info. I was considering putting the pump on the cross member that the rack goes under. I am just worried about it getting too hot if I do decide to run it on a road course. I would probably just leave it off for that though.


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Old 08-28-2008, 11:38 AM   #44 (permalink)
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voltage regulator I assume? Thanks for the info. I was considering putting the pump on the cross member that the rack goes under. I am just worried about it getting too hot if I do decide to run it on a road course. I would probably just leave it off for that though.
I havent been able to find a PWM to control that heavy of power requirement yet.

In my experience you definitely need a power steering cooler for road course.


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Old 08-28-2008, 12:01 PM   #45 (permalink)
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JUST GO WITH OUT it our cars are light enough you dont even need that its for ####ies anyway.


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Old 08-28-2008, 12:10 PM   #46 (permalink)
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JUST GO WITH OUT it our cars are light enough you dont even need that its for ####ies anyway.
I take it you have never driven a car with a welded center diff, wide tires, caster plates, and no powersteering. You would become the so called ####y if you had to do it. I can tell you from my experience that my elbow felt like it was starting to get a little slop in the joint. It was sore all of the time and I didn't enjoy driving my car without powersteering.


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Old 08-28-2008, 01:17 PM   #47 (permalink)
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for a 1g you can just get a manual rack. But I'm building a road course car anyway. Driver fatigue is real.


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Old 09-05-2008, 09:32 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update gixxerdrew!!

For some reason I wasn't alerted to updates on this thread. I appreciate the pics. How's it holding up?
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:28 PM   #49 (permalink)
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one i have a FWD and i dont have a welded center diff but i do have a lsd in my tranny and i have wide tires
285 to be exact

and i have no clue what caster plates are


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