spc arms problem need help?

2gdanny · 06-25-2008, 11:57 PM

Hey guys, so after having the spc arms in my room for well over 2 months I got them on today, the installation was very easy I only ran in to one problem, witch I think I “fixed” but I just want to know if it will be ok the way I did it or if I need to really fix it.

The probe was that I unwrapped the arms from the wrap and went to work, for some reason when getting them on the ring that holds the ball joints rubber to the ball joint/ arm came out on the arms, I didn’t see a problem because the rubber still holds on to it good and when tightened doesn’t move. My fixing it was getting a zip tie on the same grove that the rings where on just to have something there.

Will this be ok or should I get the rings back on no matter what.

Thanks guys, Danny.

twicks69 · 06-26-2008, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2gdanny

Hey guys, so after having the spc arms in my room for well over 2 months I got them on today, the installation was very easy I only ran in to one problem, witch I think I “fixed” but I just want to know if it will be ok the way I did it or if I need to really fix it.

The probe was that I unwrapped the arms from the wrap and went to work, for some reason when getting them on the ring that holds the ball joints rubber to the ball joint/ arm came out on the arms, I didn’t see a problem because the rubber still holds on to it good and when tightened doesn’t move. My fixing it was getting a zip tie on the same grove that the rings where on just to have something there.

Will this be ok or should I get the rings back on no matter what.

Thanks guys, Danny.

Danny,

I had the same issue with the upper ball joint dust boot spring popping off the first second I installed them. I ended up wasting around an hour or two getting the springs properly back on them. Your zip tie will likely work just fine, but I would reccomend getting some sort of spring retainer back onto it.

As well, one word of caution...when you get your alignment done, be sure to use a bit of red locktite on the threads for the big 27mm nut for the upper ball joint. It really sucks to have it loosen up and change your camber or caster while driving. Be sure to get that nut tight -- you don't need to crank on it too hard though.

As well, if you are going to be taking off your suspension regularly, where you have to replace the castellated nut for the connection at the spindle to the upper ball joint, I would reccomend getting replacement nuts -- the ones that they sell with their control arms are pretty cheap, and the threads tear off easily when reused.

I hope that these little details save you from alot of headaches down the road.

Tim

Dallas J · 06-26-2008, 08:55 AM

I think everyone who's installed a set has had that damn boot come off. I would either work at getting it back on or just get some safety wire to tie it on.

You wouldnt want it to virbrate off and get dirt in there.

PieEyedPiper · 06-26-2008, 09:20 AM

Yeah the spring clip thingey came off mine too within 5min of opening the box. I've always thought it was a weak system, but it holds up to driving pretty well so far.

The problem I see with a zip tie is that its edges are somewhat sharp and you could prematurely crack or puncture the boot. Just a thought.

And thanks for the heads up about that castle nut, Tim.

twicks69 · 06-26-2008, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PieEyedPiper

Yeah the spring clip thingey came off mine too within 5min of opening the box. I've always thought it was a weak system, but it holds up to driving pretty well so far.

The problem I see with a zip tie is that its edges are somewhat sharp and you could prematurely crack or puncture the boot. Just a thought.

And thanks for the heads up about that castle nut, Tim.

No problem, I have gone through several sets of castellated nuts -- they just don't like impact wrenches when removing/installing them too much.

2gdanny · 06-26-2008, 10:18 PM

thanks very much for all your help i took them off today and i did get locktight on it and as for the castel nuts i used a washer and a regular nut.

and i learned that castel nuts dotn like inpactguns when i had to do my sway bars end links more then 3 times till a guy tolled me not to use the castel nuts given and just use regualr nuts and i have replaced every castel i have found so far.

as far as clearance have you or any one found any problems? i just ask becouse i have the tein ssp and its droped not kissing the ground but about 4fingers off the floor with the carbon lip on it. and i have seen here that people have problems with the arms hitting the strut tower mount when cars are droped.

PieEyedPiper · 06-26-2008, 11:00 PM

Yeah, you're running too low in my opinion. Might take some trial and error to find the best balance.

But just something else that came to me about the castle nuts, was that they snugged up much past the hole that drilled through the balljoint stem. You know, where you're supposed to put the pin that the you use with castle nuts. So I just put the stock ones on behind it. You can see it in a few of the pics from the write up, I think. I'd link it, but I think its kind of vain to go around linking your own articles.

2gdanny · 06-26-2008, 11:13 PM

well what i do/did is i put on the castel bolt till it was on tight, marked it where it was at, i got a bolt like the ones from the struts" im not sure what they are called or anything but they have like a ruber oring at the end" and i just tightend it to the line where the castel nut did i made sure i got the same size nut as the castel nut. and i was done