<![CDATA[DSM Forums - Articles: Parts Feedback & Reviews]]> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:25:00 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[DSM Forums - Articles: Parts Feedback & Reviews]]> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ Braille B3121 No-Weight Racing Battery, SMIM friendly! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353829-braille-b3121-no-weight-racing-battery-smim-friendly.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:19:39 GMT Sup guys, I purchased a Braille 3121 battery 2 days ago, as I had long been using (see: shoving) an oversize battery since I installed my Magnus some time ago. Well I weighed my options as far as another battery source, and decided that I did not want to relocate my battery to the hatch. I figure... Sup guys, I purchased a Braille 3121 battery 2 days ago, as I had long been using (see: shoving) an oversize battery since I installed my Magnus some time ago. Well I weighed my options as far as another battery source, and decided that I did not want to relocate my battery to the hatch. I figure cars that see street use often should not have a portion of their hatch compromised by an Optima or other huge ass battery.

So I began to look at different brands, to find something small enough to fit in the limited space left by the UICP. I considered the Odyssey PC680, but couldn't bring myself to trust a battery that small in all conditions. I looked at Hawker, Deka, the 51R series Optima, Kinetix, and finally Braille.

I obviously went with the Braille, as it offered twice the cold cranking amps at 0° F, then the PC680 or similarly sized rebadges. This battery offers 1380 cranking amps for the first five seconds, and over 1100 for 10 seconds, so on and so forth. It totally outclasses my old standard wet cell battery, despite it's small size. I searched extensively for reviews from people on various forums, and the consensus was that they all loved this battery. So I dropped the hammer. Let me say, this battery is light! You can place this battery wherever you need it with one hand. It is also compact, but not pocket sized like the PC680. It actually has the power the rival the Optima Red Top, despite it's size. It offers 75 minutes of reserve (15 mins less the the Red Top) and a 31 amp hour capacity. It offers 200 more pulse crank amps than the Red Top, and for it's size is quite the powerhouse. Finally, it is SMIM friendly, and comes with brass automotive terminals as well. Overall I am very satisfied with it.


Voltage:
12 Volts

Full Charge Voltage:
13.8 Volts

Short Circuit Current (Max Cranking Amps):
3000 est.

Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 5 sec @ 80F:
1380

Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 10 sec @ 80F:
1207

Pulse Cranking Amps 20 sec @ 80F:
1066

Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 80F:
892

Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 32F:
742

Cold Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 0F:
550

Reserve Capacity:
1hr 15mins

Capacity (C/20 rate):
31 amp hr

Internal Resistance:
4.0 milliohms (.004 ohms)

Life Cycle @ 10% DOD:
3100 cycles est.


Now for some pics.

Spec comparison:

Wet Cell:

Braille 3121:


Size comparison:



[


Installed with Magnus and UICP, no modification needed:

]]> manrightchea http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353829-braille-b3121-no-weight-racing-battery-smim-friendly.html Slowboy FMIC Monster Core http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353801-slowboy-fmic-monster-core.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 05:14:16 GMT I haven't been on the forums as much as I used to so the little I can contribute is feedback. I'm a college student and I know how hard it is to save up for these things so I hope these reviews aid you guys into buying from the right vendors. I've spent thousands of dollars since owning my DSM and I've nearly dealt with all of the vendors so I have a good feeling for what is considered acceptable customer service in this industry.

I saved up every penny I had for a long time and I purchased an SBR Monster core I remember it cost me 600+ shipping for the core alone. I received the core and the first thing I noticed were scratches, bent and crushed fins everywhere. Not just 1 or 2, but a whole lot of crushed fins and if you've ever dealt with a FMIC you know that crushed fins cannot be straightened. Not a big deal I thought to myself they should take care of me. So I gave them a call and they tell me to email them about it. I emailed them about it and they told me they needed better pictures. So I responded and never again heard from them even after two consecutive emails. Here is the thread I made about it with more info:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turb...on-vendor.html

Here are the pictures.









-Xtian ]]> fulanititoo8198 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353801-slowboy-fmic-monster-core.html eBay customledlights http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353687-ebay-customledlights.html Mon, 02 Nov 2009 20:37:49 GMT Customledlights on ebay they sent me the wrong bulbs the first time so I sent them back and had to wait 3 weeks for the right bulbs 8500k blue fog bulbs, After I installed them I went to turn them on and one of the new fog light bulbs blew up. I'll tell you what never again will I buy from them again. I installed the bulb the correct way I never touch the bulb and they blew up regardless. ]]> EDM95 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353687-ebay-customledlights.html ITM Timing Belts. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353419-itm-timing-belts.html Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:18:23 GMT My buddy talondave (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/members/talondave-99804.html) was recently in need of a timing belt for his daily driver 1G Laser AWD, so I willingly donated a brand new ITM belt that I recently picked up as part of a complete timing belt kit for my FWD. I bought the kit with... My buddy talondave was recently in need of a timing belt for his daily driver 1G Laser AWD, so I willingly donated a brand new ITM belt that I recently picked up as part of a complete timing belt kit for my FWD. I bought the kit with intention of using the pulleys on my engine in conjunction with a Power Enterprise timing belt.

My first impression of the ITM belt was that it appeared to be of OEM quality. As Dave would soon find out, this is not the case.

With no more than 300 miles and one week of driving on it, here's how the ITM belt held up:
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]]> jusmx141 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353419-itm-timing-belts.html RRE front/rear upper strut bar install. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353222-rre-front-rear-upper-strut-bar-install.html Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:56:00 GMT I have searched all over for a good tech article on RRE strut bars and could't find one so I decided i would create this one.


Tools needed:
-Dremel w/ cutoff wheel (optional)
-Phillips screwdriver
-Marker
-Measuring tape
-Electrical tape
-Ratchet extension
-14mm socket
-14mm wrench


Rear strut bar install
I started with the rear since there is more to do back there.

1. Remove the (2) screws holding the strut covers on both left and right side. Once those are off you will see where the struts are located.


2. Remove the black dust covers over the center of both struts.



3.Remove (1) 14mm nut on each side closest to the rear of the car.

4.Loosen the locknut on the strut bar and adjust it to the right length. Place strut bar over both nuts and push down gently till it sits flush on both sides.



5. Tighten the locknut on the strut bar.

6. Start with one side and get the bolt snug but not tight. Go to the other side and snug it as well, making sure the bar sits flush

If you dont plan on putting the dust covers or plastic trim back on then your done with the rear. IF not I'll explain how to get them to fit.

the plastic trim needs to be cut to slide over the strut bar. Make sure you know which piece is the left & right. Click on the pic to see the measurements.


(NOTE: make sure before trimming the pieces that you cut it out on the side facing the rear of the car)

Once that is measured use your dremel and cut out the piece.

The dustboots need to be cut as well. I cut a 1in by 1in section.
.

place the dustboots and the trim back on.

Now your done with the rear bar.

This bar does work with the hatch cover.


Front strut bar install

1.Open your hood. Loosen the 14mms strut nuts closest to front of car on both sides. (Not the bigger nuts by themselves in the bay)

2. Place the strut bar over the studs. The flat part of the bar goes on the passenger side of the car.

3. If your bar seems too short measure it. DO not force it on. It should measure little over 42 inches. Thanks to JLJ for getting this info in this thread RRE strut bar problem

4. Start with one side and get the bolt snug but not tight. Go to the other side and snug it as well, making sure the bar sits flush. Now tighten them both down and your done.

5. Your positive battery terminal may come close to this bar like mine so I wrapped a small section in electrical tape in case they do ever touch.






I also have the RRE front lower bar, but do not have that installed yet.


I suggest taking the car for a quick drive around the block and come back and make sure that the bars are still tight. If not tighten them back down. I havent gotten to test the bars fully yet but i can definitely tell turning seems more fluid. Ill edit once i test them out. ]]> 2GturboTALON http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353222-rre-front-rear-upper-strut-bar-install.html <![CDATA[CXRacing 3" SS Flex Section (3" x 8" x 12")]]> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353134-cxracing-3-ss-flex-section-3-x-8-x-12-a.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 21:25:54 GMT This is a quick review of a CXRacing flex section. I bought a "full" SS 3" exhaust used off someone on here who had is custom made. It appears that one part of my exhaust wasn't SS, and it rusted through. My flex section is shot, so I turned to eBay for what should be a relatively cheap, non-critical, non-moving part.

My search lead me to buying this:
Attachment 102037

$31.00 shipped to my door.
Build quality is not bad at all.

Attachment 102038
Attachment 102039
Braided SS inside and out.

3" all the way through
Attachment 102040

The weld quality isn't too bad. Not the greatest but could be worse.
I'll be welding this into my exhaust. My welds won't be any better. So I'm not worried.
Attachment 102041

If you wanted to, you may be able to slip fit a 3" OD pipe inside this. The ends are flared so it should, but it will be very tight.
Attachment 102042

Overall, this seems like a good way to go for a new flex section. I'll have to see just how long it lasts, but being SS, it should hold up for a while. My downpipe and o2 housing don't put any stress on the flex, so that should help longevity.

-Wes
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]]> knochgoon24 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/353134-cxracing-3-ss-flex-section-3-x-8-x-12-a.html STM 6-bolt oil cooler kit large push-lock style http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/352719-stm-6-bolt-oil-cooler-kit-large-push-lock-style.html Thu, 22 Oct 2009 19:06:14 GMT I ordered from STM a 6-bolt oil cooler kit large push-lock style for $200 shipped. It came with a B&M tranny or engine oil cooler the size is 18x11x1.5, 5 feet of Mr. Gasket High Pressure hose 250psi, a OEM oil filter housing gasket, and Mr. Gasket assorted pushlock fittings to install the kit. Also there was a STM sticker in the box as well. The shipping was fast and the product came well packaged and in good shape with everything. I will be installing it soon right in front of the driver side fender well for good air flow. How to coming soon.
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]]> pur97tsifwd http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/352719-stm-6-bolt-oil-cooler-kit-large-push-lock-style.html