http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:01:59 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/354211-how-r-r-press-fit-pistons-balace-rods-6bolt-1g-4g63.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:53:34 GMT How to R&R pistons and Balance Rods
1G 6 Bolt 4G63T

The used rods and pistons, the pistons are being replaced due to cracked and broken ring lands.



I start off by marking the front of the rod with a center punch



Next is to find the proper sized press pieces to press out the wrist pins.



Due to the pressures used to press out the wrist pin, care must be used, the piston itself can bust sending pieces of it flying that can and will cause injury.


After the pistons have been pressed off, and the small end inspected for scoring, the rods need to be numbered on both the rod and end cap.



Now the rod and caps can be split and cleaned, I use a glass beader to remove all the grime



Once that is done I spray them down with a good brake cleaner and blow them dry


Chase the rod bolt threads with a nut to remove any dust left from the glass beading.

Now to match the rods back with the caps


Install the rod nuts.


Now the rods are clean and assembled, they can be balanced. Start off by weighing all the small ends

The weight will be matched to the lightest one.

Once the small ends are matched, weigh the overall weight of each rod, and match the overall weight by removing material from the bottom of the rod.

Now that is done, it is time to match the weights of the pistons WITH OUT the wrist pin installed.

Then weight match the wrist pins.

Now that all the weights are with in 1/10 a gram the pistons can be hung back on the connecting rods. The small ends must be heated so the wrist pin can slip through it.

This must be done very quickly so the wrist pin is fully in place before the small end of the rod contracts around the wrist pin holding it in place.
]]> BogusSVO http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/354211-how-r-r-press-fit-pistons-balace-rods-6bolt-1g-4g63.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/352812-cooling-101-stainless-steel-coolant-overflow-tank.html Fri, 23 Oct 2009 05:35:33 GMT This can be done on either a 1g or 2g, I'm sure. I did this mod on my 91 TSi AWD.

I have an aluminum radiator (have had it a while now) and have only been running the main fan (passengers side). Since I did my Supra sidemount and intercooler piping, the air filter was moved more toward the front of the car, so my stock overflow tank wouldn't fit in it's usual spot.

I moved the stock tank over to the right side of the fan, ziptied it there until I could think of something better. Well, that was a bad idea, as it flew off while I was driving. So I bought a stainless steel overflow tank. This will guide you through the mounting procedure and hookup.


First off, here is what the coolant tank looks like. The one I bought is 15" long and has a 2" diameter. Holts 1.5 pints or fluid. At the bottom, there are 2 nipples. The coolant hose to the thermostat housing is the shorter of the two. The longer one is the discharge/overflow. It extends almost all the way to the top of the tank.


(Sorry, picture is upside down)





So let's go out to the car and see where we can put the coolant tank. There are 2 holes at the top of the radiator to hold the stock A/C fan on. So let's just see if it will fit over on the hole farthest to the right.







The tank fits...it is a little bit taller than the radiator itself with the cap on, but it clears the hood just fine. The bottom of the tank rests against the "lip" on the bottom endtank of the radiator. It's as if the tank were made to go here.

To mount it, I decided to make a bracket out of aluminum bar. I went down to Ace Hardware and picked up a 3 or 4 foot long piece of aluminum. It's a good width and thickness, works very well. (I don't remember the exact dimensions but if you want them just PM me).

You have to bend the bottom of the aluminum so it can rest on the subframe. Mark the holes where they are on the overflow tank and the mounting hole at the top and go drill away.





Now that you have the holes drilled, cut the metal down to length. I cut it about an inch or so above the top hole (that will mount to the radiator). After you have it cut to length, bolt the coolant tank to the newly made bracket.






(Again, sorry this is upside down...I was taking pictures with my phone and they look correct on their...)



Now you're going to bolt it up to the radiator itself. Once you have that done, you have to drill a hole in the subframe. After I drilled the hole, I used a sheet metal screw (1 inch length) to secure the bracket to the subframe.







I ran into a small problem once everything was bolted up. The tank was too close to the radiator and the cap would not come off of the tank...it hit the radiator. I solved this by adding 2 shims behind the top bolt connected to the radiator.









Now just run your coolant line from the bottom of the tank to the thermostat housing and voila, you have a badass looking bling under your hood. ]]> tsi1991awd http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/352812-cooling-101-stainless-steel-coolant-overflow-tank.html