DSM Forums - Custom Fabrication http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ TIG/MIG welding, jig-building, metal working, fiberglass, carbon fiber, and other custom fabrication projects. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:53:07 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg DSM Forums - Custom Fabrication http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ 1g color options http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/355157-1g-color-options.html Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:07:11 GMT Are there color statistics for 1g eclipse and talons? as in what color in what year and how many of each color they made every year. i've tried researching and havent found anything out. ]]> Custom Fabrication eclipse_16g http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/355157-1g-color-options.html Dsmlink laptop holder http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/355124-dsmlink-laptop-holder.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:28:50 GMT Hey has anyone ever fabricated something to hold a lap top in the car for a dsmlink? Got a few ideas wondering if anyone has done it thaniks! AND has or is it possable to put a manual boost controller in the interior? Hey has anyone ever fabricated something to hold a lap top in the car for a dsmlink? Got a few ideas wondering if anyone has done it thaniks!

AND

has or is it possable to put a manual boost controller in the interior? ]]> Custom Fabrication MMS40 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/355124-dsmlink-laptop-holder.html My Tube Framed Carbon Bodied Road Race Evo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354999-my-tube-framed-carbon-bodied-road-race-evo.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:29:43 GMT Hi guys, here is a link to my tube framed chassis carbon fiber bodied Road Race Evo. I built it in my garage.

Capt. Marck Carey's new ride ]]> Custom Fabrication marck_c http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354999-my-tube-framed-carbon-bodied-road-race-evo.html Semi-custom 16g manifold http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354906-semi-custom-16g-manifold.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:22:55 GMT Well i was looking up manifolds on several sites and all them seem to be quite on the high side, so i had a thought about buying an ebay mani and having it slapped on with my 16g. I had in mind purchasing one of these t3/t4 style manifolds : Image:... Well i was looking up manifolds on several sites and all them seem to be quite on the high side, so i had a thought about buying an ebay mani and having it slapped on with my 16g.
I had in mind purchasing one of these t3/t4 style manifolds :



and having the t3/t4 flange taken off and a dsm flange welded on by the shop:

Great thing i see about this is that not only is it much cheaper than buying a dnp piece but it also is already flanged and ready for an external.
Does anyone think it'll make a noticeable difference compared to my stock mani ? ]]> Custom Fabrication Dsmj89 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354906-semi-custom-16g-manifold.html 420A Downpipe ideas http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354335-downpipe-ideas.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:18:59 GMT Okay, so I was wanting to ask the community for some help. I came across a brand new T3 turbo, for basically nothing. A friend owed me some money, I had a set of rims w/bad tires. We traded rims+debt/brand new turbo. So anyways, it is an internally gated Garrett T3 with the weird 5 bolt exhaust... Okay, so I was wanting to ask the community for some help. I came across a brand new T3 turbo, for basically nothing. A friend owed me some money, I had a set of rims w/bad tires. We traded rims+debt/brand new turbo. So anyways, it is an internally gated Garrett T3 with the weird 5 bolt exhaust side. It has the housing that bolts up to the turbo and allows the WG/turbo to dump into one 3 bolt connection for the down pipe already attached. It just doesnt have an o2 housing like I want.

So heres where my question comes in. Isnt there an evo w/a T3? Does it have a 5 bolt o2 housing? I basically want to find an o2 housing that will bolt up to that particular bolt pattern.

here is a link to something really similar to what this turbo has, if not the same:

http://amsperformance.com/amsperform...%20800x600.jpg

So thats not the same turbo, but that is what the Hotside looks like. I want an o2 housing that fits that bolt pattern. I am sure there are OEM housings that will work, I just need some help.

I think a DP from ebay would work if I wanted to run an external gate. I want to use my internal gate though. Here is a link to the ebay DP I was talking about:

Google Image Result for http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e326/zu4sre54/HondaCivicTurbo0101.jpg

I know that one is for a honda, But I think it illustrates what Im saying. You can see it blocks the internal WG, and has the o2 spot too far away from the turbo..

Thanks for the help guys

-J ]]> Custom Fabrication 420a_turbo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354335-downpipe-ideas.html 2G effective bracing http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354217-effective-bracing.html Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:09:48 GMT Hey guys. This will be my first major project in the fabrication section so bare with me.:D I have been playing around with a welder for a few months now and i am loving it, just last weekend the boss man gave me the go ahead to raid his ridiculously excessive stock of tubing for personal... Hey guys. This will be my first major project in the fabrication section so bare with me.:D

I have been playing around with a welder for a few months now and i am loving it, just last weekend the boss man gave me the go ahead to raid his ridiculously excessive stock of tubing for personal weekend projects. :thumb: I now have access to all sizes and thickness of tube from chomolly to stainless to aluminum and bar stock.

My goal is to stop as much flex as i possibly can in my sloppy 2g. I have been reading all the threads i can find on chassis bracing and am branching out into the rest of the interwebs for more info on design but if anyone has any relevant links or anything interesting i would love to hear it.

I know for the front i am going to start with a three point strut tower brace. I have had a few of the factory spot welds crack apart in my engine bay, likely from heavy autox use. so i think thats a good place to start.

Can anyone make an argument for what style of end plate would be most effective?
should i be using a flat plate that most aftermarket bars come with or just create bolt holes on the individual bar ends? It seems, because of the wavy nature of the top of the strut tower that their would be no advantage of a large mounting plate as far as contact area.

What would be the recommended material for this sort of bracing. I dont know that chromolly would be necessary I am figuring that stainless steel would be effective enough, but in what diameter and wall thickness?

And finally where else does this chassis need improving? i know my sunroof creaks when i corner and i plan on doing a rear bracing set up too, but are their more effective ways/places to prevent flex?

I would love some discussion on this!
THANKS! ]]> Custom Fabrication endeffect0 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/354217-effective-bracing.html 2G 2g Evo X\9\8 Brembo without JDM knuckles http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353863-2g-evo-x-9-8-brembo-without-jdm-knuckles.html Thu, 05 Nov 2009 01:26:05 GMT I just like to share the solution for for jdm knuckles with the forums. This is how I got the evo X\8 calipers on my 2g knuckle. I was looking for jdm knuckles but there like $500. I had a few set of 2g knuckles and one evo X and 8 calipers lying around. Then I thought of this idea. First I machine... I just like to share the solution for for jdm knuckles with the forums. This is how I got the evo X\8 calipers on my 2g knuckle. I was looking for jdm knuckles but there like $500. I had a few set of 2g knuckles and one evo X and 8 calipers lying around. Then I thought of this idea. First I machine flat the back part of the knuckles. Now I have workable surface to make brackets. These brackets could be made out of 3\8" steel or 1\2" T6 aluminum on a CNC machine. The bracket I made will fit the evo X\9\8 Calipers with one exception that evo X calipers must be used with the X rotors and vice-versa with evo 9\8. These pictures are evo X calipers and big 14” rotors. The evo X brakes will require 18" rims minimum, i went with evo 8 calipers to save my 17” rims\tires. Here's the tech artical on how to shave the knuckles.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...-calipers.html
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]]> Custom Fabrication kmv http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353863-2g-evo-x-9-8-brembo-without-jdm-knuckles.html Pneumatic Nibbler vs. Shear http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353528-pneumatic-nibbler-vs-shear.html Sat, 31 Oct 2009 07:32:36 GMT I purchased a pneumatic nibbler a while back for doing small sheetmetal work. I like the fact that it doesn't warp the material (a problem I have when using manual shears) and makes cutting curves a piece of cake.

After using it only a couple of times, I found one major downside--all those tiny sharp crescent moon-shaped pieces of metal that are nibbled off seem to find their way into everything! Even months later, I keep finding them embedded in everything from my shoes and work clothes to the foam pads I use when crawling under the car. It drives me nuts, and they're SHARP! I typically cut non-magnetic material like SS and aluminum, so cleanup isn't super simple either.

This got me to thinking--would a pneumatic shear be a better general purpose sheetmetal tool? I haven't enjoyed using manual shears, but pneumatic shears seem like they might work better and be cleaner than using my nibbler. The potential downsides I see with shears are the somewhat limited cutting capacity and cutting radius as compared to the nibbler.

Would anyone with more sheetmetal experience care to chime in? ]]> Custom Fabrication Gonzo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353528-pneumatic-nibbler-vs-shear.html How to make a fiberglass mold and a carbon fiber part from it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353375-how-make-fiberglass-mold-carbon-fiber-part.html Thu, 29 Oct 2009 04:17:50 GMT I made a mold over the weekend and figured it would be a nice how to. It's for a 2010 camaro trunk insert. The factory one is carpeted. I didn't have pics of the begining so here is how I made the plug. I put resin down over the carpeted piece and sanded it smooth. The key here is your mold will only be as good as your plug is so spend as much time as needed to make it flat and as smooth as glass. I sand all my plugs up to 2000 grit and polish them before doing anything else. This is a very rough how to since it was just me in the mold shop on the weekend so had limited pics. If you want any other pics on how to do a step just ask and I am sure I will have one of a different mold we have done. So on with the pics.


In this pic it shows the plug all sanded down. The aluminum around it is called a flange an is used so you can have a edge to trim off the actual carbon part when you make it and for applying vacuum bag tape later on. It is just aluminum flashing purchased at home depot and it is attached with hot glue on the back.


Now to keep the gel coat from getting under the edge of the part causing it to lock the two parts together we use a non hardening clay. For most parts that need a nice rolled edge we use as little clay as possible but for this part the part just stopped and didn't need a rolled edge like on a hood or trunk so we made it so gel coat wouldn't get stuck. Nothing pretty but works just fine for this situation.


This is the tool we use to shape the clay. Got it from a arts and craft store for $15 or so.


After you put the clay around the edge you need to fill any holes that will be cut out later. I usually just use clay but you can use hvac tape as well. This is where the trunk latch goes through the insert.


Next we tape off all the seams where the aluminum flashing meets up so the gel coat once again doesn't get stuck between the two layers. It is just hvac tape.


Next step is to take wax and grease remover and go over the entire part and make sure everything is clean. After that you need to put on some sort of release agent to allow the plug to seperate from the mold when its dry. You can use mold release wax but on plugs I always use PVA. Some don't like it but I have had situations where plugs have gotten stuck to molds and it's tough to see both get destroyed after all the work spent on making a plug. I have had plugs take up to a month to make just right so it's a risk I wouldn't take. You can brush on pva but we spray it. 4 very thin coats letting each coat dry. The pva creates a thin film that is water soluble between the gel coat and the plug. I have never ever had a part stick with this stuff. This it what the bottle looks like.


Next we apply gel coat. This is tooling gel coat and it's a bit stronger then normal gel coat. It also sticks to vertical surfaces better. This stuff is pretty nasty smelling we always use gloves and proper breathers to be safe. You can brush it on or spray it. We usually spray it but the part was small enough that I didn't want to bother having to clean the gun after.


Now you let this cure till it is a B stage. You will know when it's there because you can leave a fingerprint but no gel coat comes off on your finger. We usually let it cure for about 2 hours at this point depending on temp.

Next step is to apply fiberglass or carbon fiber on top of the gel coat. There are alot of different types of fiberglass you can work with such as Chopped Strand Mat and woven. Most of our molds are made from woven glass or carbon fiber. For this mold I chose chopped strand mat since cost was a issue and there wasn't a need to have it made out of carbon fiber or woven glass. The method here is to lay down the fiberglass and soak it with a ester based resin. The binders in the chopped strand mat break down when they are soak in ester resin. Make sure there is NO trapped air in between the gel coat and the fiberglass this would cause voids that you will have to repair later on. Spend alot of time on the first few layers as they are very important to having a strong mold. This mold was made with 6 layers of fiberglass total but only applying 3 layers at a time. The reason you don't want to have to many layers on at once is because the chemical reaction that cures the resin creates heat. Enough heat can cause problems such as warping the mold. So we put 3 layers of fiberglass on let it cure for a day and put 3 more on the next day. Here is what the mold looks like after 6 layers are on it.


After the mold is cured this was about 24 hours we popped the mold from the plug by putting plastic wedges between the two. I take my time here and gently work my way around the part edges until it pops apart. Here is what the mold surface looks like when it comes out and is washed off with water to get the release agent off all the way.


At this point you can do any repairs to the mold using more gel coat. If it's ready to go I polish it up again to be sure the mold surface is like a mirror. The surface of the part will only be as good as the surface of the mold.

Now it's time to apply more release agent to it so your carbon fiber part can pop out of the mold after its dry. We have used alot of different types of release here are a few examples. Mold release wax (you apply this just like car wax. On new molds its 6 coats letting each one haze up and buffing it out to a shine), pva just like we used before (I don't use it here because it can leave a weird finish on the carbon parts but it does work) and a Semi Perm release (this is my favorite stuff. We have never ever had a part stick to the mold before and the parts just pretty much fall out of the mold when done.) Here is the exact stuff we use applying three coats. The benifit to the semi perm stuff is they tend to allow up to 30 releases between coats so it saves time and money if you are doing decent production runs.


Now to make a part you just apply clear gel coat to the mold by spraying it. You can brush it on but I have never had success with doing it that way. Let the gel coat b stage and apply your carbon fiber to the mold. Here you spend lots of time making sure it is firmly pressed into all the corners and edges. If you don't you will end up with a hole between the fabric and the gel coat. next apply your choice of resin (If you are using epoxy make sure that it is compatable with your gel coat since some epoxys don't react well to polyester based gel coats. If you are using a ester based resin you will be fine) Apply as many layers as needed which will depend on what you are making. Most parts that are cosmetic will use 3 or 4 layers you can use one layer of carbon and a few layers of fiberglass. Most carbon products out there are made this way and is a huge reason why some hoods are $600 and the full carbon ones can be over $2500 (high quality hoods can consist of 10 layers of 3k carbon fiber and is why a high end hood can cost upwards of 2000 or more but they tend to weigh in at very little compared to the one layer carbon and rest fiberglass version). Let the resin cure and pop out your part.

I didn't get any pics of the part we made from this mold but I will take some tomorrow when the weather is better here.

There are a few different ways of making the part such as vacuum bagging or infusion and if anyone wants to see pics of it let me know and I will take some while we make a part and post them up. ]]> Custom Fabrication awdrst http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353375-how-make-fiberglass-mold-carbon-fiber-part.html 6G72TT into Sebring questions http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353070-6g72tt-into-sebring-questions.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 04:18:03 GMT My friend has a '97 Sebring and we are looking at putting a 6G72TT AWD swap in. Two questions.

1. Do you know if the rear axle off a 2g GSX/TSi would fit into the car?

2. Which axles would we have to use? from a 3000GT/Stealth or a DSM? If the DSM axles, would they hold the 320HP?

Thanks in advance. ]]> Custom Fabrication 1990AWD http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353070-6g72tt-into-sebring-questions.html Tial bov adapter for 1g bov http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353031-tial-bov-adapter-1g-bov.html Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:30:31 GMT Does anyone make or know if there is a adapter for tial flange adapter to 1g bov flange,basically I mean I have a uicp that has a tial flange on it,but I want to use my 1g bov Does anyone make or know if there is a adapter for tial flange adapter to 1g bov flange,basically I mean I have a uicp that has a tial flange on it,but I want to use my 1g bov ]]> Custom Fabrication 92_talonGsXt http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/353031-tial-bov-adapter-1g-bov.html Cleaner way to get a WG actuator to work on a Cyclone manifold http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352904-cleaner-way-get-wg-actuator-work-cyclone-manifold.html Sat, 24 Oct 2009 06:17:43 GMT I had a problem with the original cyclone actuator leaking pressure pretty much defeating the purpose. I noticed this after manually closing the butterfly valves, plugging the hole, and watching the reaction. If the actuator is bad the valves will open up. If its good the valves should hold pretty... I had a problem with the original cyclone actuator leaking pressure pretty much defeating the purpose. I noticed this after manually closing the butterfly valves, plugging the hole, and watching the reaction. If the actuator is bad the valves will open up. If its good the valves should hold pretty much indefinitely.

Since theirs no available replacement I started going through the research of finding other options. I saw a thread about using the stock wastegate solenoid, but really didn't like the mounting solution.

I also thought about using an electric solenoid. I found a few on McMaster-Carr, like this one, McMaster-Carr. The problem is the maximum force is pretty low. I'm just not sure if it'll be enough to over come a return spring while maintaining a fast response speed. Also, reliability was a concern.

Since we know the wastegate actuator (WGA) cant handle the rigors of under-hood high temp use, I decided to figure out what I could do about the mounting solution. With the manifold on the car I could position the WGA in a suitable location, all I needed to do was make a bracket and get everything mounted up.

I started with some angle iron I had sitting around. I trimmed both edges to get it to fit between the timing belt cover and manifold. Then I used the stock actuator to get the hole pattern in the bracket.



Holding the WGA up to the bracket, I found the distance I wanted to mount it and market the bracket where to cut.


Here's the bracket bent with a hole drilled in it for the shaft from the WGA.


Next I cut and bent one of the tabs that looked like a good mounting solution, drilled a hole between the 2 brackets and bolted it together. The other tab just got cut off and ground down for a cleaner look.



Here it is showing everything fits. The fuel line sits just right above it with the AN fuel line tilted just slightly upwards.



I still have to make an adapter to fit the shaft to the butterfly, but I have a pretty good idea for that. I threaded the WGA shaft and Im going to drill one of the flat sides and use a long set screw. This will give me ajustment without much possibility of slipping.

Ill post up more pictures when I get the adapter from shaft to butterfly made.

-Dallas J ]]> Custom Fabrication Dallas J http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352904-cleaner-way-get-wg-actuator-work-cyclone-manifold.html Cutting,welding the caliper bracket for 2g awd http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352820-cutting-welding-caliper-bracket-2g-awd.html Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:03:21 GMT Just wondering if the front knuckle's on the 2g dsm's are weldable for a MiG welder? I know they are weldable, but will it be strong.

This is what id like to do? I picked up some 03 svt cobra brakes, and the caliper bracket is about1/2 inch further away from the factory bracket location. I want to cut the bracket off my 2g awd front knuckle, bolt each one on the caliper bracket and align them so the brake pads are where they need to be on the 13 inch rotors. Tac them in place, use 3/8 flat steel and make some gussets for supports on each side of the brackets and in the center between bolting points. Then take off the caliper, wheel bearing etc and mig each side of the gussets and brackets.

Does that sound like she'd be strong enough?

I made an adapter plate to mate the cobra brakes on my talon, but I don't like the location of the caliper. Because when i got the mounting points to where there was enough material to be strong it will be sitting at a 11 o-clock position. I want it at about 9 o-clock, like factory.

I have a few sets of knuckles to spare, so today ill mock up the drivers side to show better what I mean, and post pictures. Remember, this is just in the air, but i want to know if there is a better way of doing this?

This was just a few minutes in photo shop, ignore the red caliper. The purple line is where I would cut the bracket off the knuckle and in the green is where the mounting bracket will be sectioned out 1/2 inch. And obviously the blue would be the gussets for added strenght.lol, Im sure it was all to obviouse??;)
Attachment 101889

In my mind, that should be plenty strong and then some. What do you master fabbers think?
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]]> Custom Fabrication duwackerTSi69 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352820-cutting-welding-caliper-bracket-2g-awd.html Catch cans that work. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352769-catch-cans-work.html Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:47:31 GMT After 1000+ miles on my rebuild, my new catch can design seems to be working VERY well. The VC breather can has collected about 3/4 cup of oil, with no trace of oil at all in the intake snorkel (even after swabbing it with a q-tip). Attachment 101874... After 1000+ miles on my rebuild, my new catch can design seems to be working VERY well. The VC breather can has collected about 3/4 cup of oil, with no trace of oil at all in the intake snorkel (even after swabbing it with a q-tip).

Attachment 101874

Attachment 101872Attachment 101873

There is a lot more information on why and how I got here with them on this page.

Although it's still a bit early in the testing, I may build up a few of these. They aren't dirt cheap (due to quality weld bungs, the sight glass, and the filter material), but I could probably let a few go for right around cost plus shipping if anyone wants to help put them through some real-world testing.

If anyone is interested, PM me. Based on how it goes, we'll take it from there and I'll get with Chris on what I need to do here. ;)
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]]> Custom Fabrication calan http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/352769-catch-cans-work.html