Dynoed the 74mm - New Best 835AWHP @ 46psi!

[95tsiemad]

What was wrong with car. I saw you working on it at the shootout. And only making 10 sec passes.

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by 95tsiemad

What was wrong with car. I saw you working on it at the shootout. And only making 10 sec passes.

Just a tough day, nothing more than that. Popped a trans on the first pass, 2nd pass we had electrical gremlins due to potentially a faulty cam angle sensor harness plug causing the fuel pumps to sporadically shut off. 3rd pass, having misfire issues; replaced plugs, confirmed that I was low on fuel after 4th pass. Oh well, not my day.

[ed1380]

Originally Posted by ceedawg

Ok Tim like someone had pointed out to me b4 and I want to clarify,does this pertain only to the 7 bolt crank because I have a 6 bolt Butcher crank in my 2.0L motor and only plan to put out if at most 600awhp? Just want to clarify.

the 2.0 cranks are fine. the stock ones have handled 1000hp

the 2.4 is the weaker one

[woooop]

Boston Hatcher's 4-mount rear diff housing brackets where do I go to get me one ?

[GaryChios]

Only 10 sec passes? Thats fast.

[robertbaxley03]

Tim,

I am glad to see that you are doing well. Good to see a vendor out making some impressive results. Can not wait until you max out a 5 BAR MAP. Good luck and I will be following along.

Robert

[D's GS-T]

I noticed that you said use mitsu or ACL Bearings, and I currently have ACL aluglide bearings in my 2.3 which is what the machine shop gave me when doing the machining. I always wondered if I should have went with the race bearing, but I guess figured with my power level these would be fine. I don't plan on making any more than probably 500hp and wasn't sure if these would last, but if mitsu ones last, I'm sure these would. I run good oil, and It doesn't see high RPMs.

[dees75z]

Originally Posted by GaryChios

Only 10 sec passes? Thats fast.

Agreed

[Blurred Talon]

How's the EWP running on the street Tim?
I'm redoing the cooling system on my car and I'm eyeing one but my car sees quite a bit of street time (daily in the summer).

[twicks69]

The water pump has been doing absolutely awesome. I have been seeing around 170-185 degrees for an overall range depending on ambient temperature (60-85 degrees air temp range), a bit higher when I was at the track in 95-degree air temps (185-190 standing still with 200-202 at the end of a pass). The pump is silent, and trouble free. I am running it without a thermostat, and only one 11" SPAL thin puller fan on my custom radiator with no issues. When the car turns off, the pump still circulates the coolant until it reaches a specified temperature.

It was the best investment in the last several years that I should have done earlier along to save me from years of troubles maintaining a water pump belt at high rpm with an alternator relocate.

[Blurred Talon]

Awesome! Good to know.

Any details on the custom rad? I've dug through your posts and haven't seen much info on it or where you've got it located.

Great work with the car!

[twicks69]

The radiator design is in the "quarter master prototype clutch" thread on like page 5 or so. There is a .pdf of what I designed and had C&R Racing fabricate up for me.

[talont3t4]

Great numbers and congrats on the aluminum rods with the 2.3 Are you running a fillied or partial filled block? and with or without o-rings? Great info.

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by talont3t4

Great numbers and congrats on the aluminum rods with the 2.3 Are you running a fillied or partial filled block? and with or without o-rings? Great info.

It is a totally open block, full coolant passages. The block and head are not o-ringed at all. I am simply running 2G 97-99 block with 2G ARP L19 head studs, and a Mitsubishi MLS head gasket without copper spray. The ARP's are torqued to 115 ft/lbs with a 4-step torque sequence of 35/70/100/115 with ARP extreme lube on all fastener surfaces.

The block and head are just properly decked with a clean surface. The head was a virgin head that has around .004-.006" taken off of it and the block deck was just a .004" cut.

Pretty simple overall.

As well, if anyone questions the strength of the 7-bolt 2.3L combination with a Kia Optima crank, I am not the only one that runs it. One of my race buddies has a 7-bolt 2.3L steel rod methanol-burning setup with a Borg S480 in his Toyota Starlet who is local to me. IIRC, it is a high 7-second car running on a Jericho 4-speed dogbox. I would have to get any other details some other time from him.

[talont3t4]

I'm assumming your running a 2G head to?

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by talont3t4

I'm assumming your running a 2G head to?

1G head, unported everything MINUS slight port work around the backsides of the valves for flow with 1mm oversize valves. Ports and chambers are OEM, casting isn't even removed.

Updated mod list can be found here:
TMZ Performance

[Blurred Talon]

Originally Posted by twicks69

The radiator design is in the "quarter master prototype clutch" thread on like page 5 or so. There is a .pdf of what I designed and had C&R Racing fabricate up for me.

I see it now. I think it's a bit more then I need now for my cooling set up, I'll make do with an AFCO rad. Now to figure out how to plumb in the cooling lines for my MHI turbo with the EWP.

Very nice set up Tim!

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by Blurred Talon

I see it now. I think it's a bit more then I need now for my cooling set up, I'll make do with an AFCO rad. Now to figure out how to plumb in the cooling lines for my MHI turbo with the EWP.

Very nice set up Tim!

Thanks man! I have alot of time into trial/error with this car and this setup has been rock solid for the duration of time I have used it.

[coltboostin]

Sorry to bring back the dead horse-but

Originally Posted by 96awd

An upgraded TB isn't really needed. It would do him good but many people use stock TB's and run lhigh 8's with them.

?

Name ONE. I hate researching info and seeing misinformation. If I am incorrect-I woudl like to sees some facts to base my next set up on. Find me one, maybe 2 DSM's in the 8's on a 60mm TB and 2.5 inch plumbing. PLEASE! This will save me some time this winter.

All of the mathmatical information I have lends to going 3inch when you are getting over the 900CFM area.

[JusMX141]

Originally Posted by coltboostin

Find me one, maybe 2 DSM's in the 8's on a 60mm TB and 2.5 inch plumbing. PLEASE! This will save me some time this winter.

Hopefully TalonDave this coming season. His 9.67 @ 151 pass was done with a non-turbo throttle body and 2.5" piping along with a heavy chassis and a poor 60ft using an intercooler that was designed for a 16G.

Now with the caged chassis and an ETS 5" core hung on the car, he still has 2.5" piping and the same unmodded non-turbo throttle body that was on the car in 2011. The weight savings alone over the previous chassis should put the car a few MPH faster...enough to get in 8-second pass if the launch is worthy.

I guess if you want to get technical a non-turbo throttle body is a tiny bit of a size upgrade over a 1G turbo throttle body, but still considered an OEM part. No sense using a giant throttle body if the turbo's only 60mm, right?

[danielsl1999gsx]

^^ I was wondering what ever happen to him, glad the car is still around.

[RWD4G63]

Out of curiosity, what oil are you running?

Why no porting? Just because?

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by coltboostin

Sorry to bring back the dead horse-but




Name ONE. I hate researching info and seeing misinformation. If I am incorrect-I woudl like to sees some facts to base my next set up on. Find me one, maybe 2 DSM's in the 8's on a 60mm TB and 2.5 inch plumbing. PLEASE! This will save me some time this winter.

All of the mathmatical information I have lends to going 3inch when you are getting over the 900CFM area.

I haven't gotten the elusive 8-second pass yet, but I did have a few 130-132mph 1/8th mile trap speeds on 50-55psi range. I was doing 9.4's with 123mph 1/8th mph on 40psi this year also. Highest mph complete pass this year was only 154mph, I had wrecked the cylinder head and was lifting it severely for the entire 2012 season. I was also seeing these issues in 2011 and didn't realise that I completely shifted the cylinder head casting and stretched out the 7-bolt L19 head studs, and elongated the head stud holes and crushed the head stud washer seating surfaces.

Overall, still damn good considering the problems I was having, especially on top of the other breakage of stuff this year at the track.

Still on 1g 60mm throttle body and 2.5" ic pipes.

It is doable, but I don't know more than a handful of people who hit low 9's/high 8's on this.

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by RWD4G63

Out of curiosity, what oil are you running?

Why no porting? Just because?

Valvoline racing synthetic 20w50 (blue stuff with high zinc).

The only porting that is really a major benefit with 1mm oversized valves is the bowl work and allowing more air to go around the backside of the valve. The runners are completely stock ports.

[killercolt]

Great result twicks69. Keep up the good work. Thank for posting your timing table and experience with us.


I have been dying to do tests to see if 2.5" pipe make less power than 3". My guess is no since most turbo outlet is only 2.5" on the outside diameter. A turbo like your might have an inside diameter of 2.5" at the turbo outlet. I don't see how 3" pipe can make much different when you have a restriction at the turbo outlet. We will see.

[JusMX141]

Tim's car is insane- one of my favorite 2G's for sure. All that power and torque and the car looks 100% stock on street tires despite a FMIC peeking out at you. Love it!

Huge props to Tim to still have the drive and motivation to keep this car on the road and track despite all the driveline issues due to the weight of the car and the torque the stroker produces.

[coltboostin]

Originally Posted by killercolt

A turbo like your might have an inside diameter of 2.5" at the turbo outlet. I don't see how 3" pipe can make much different when you have a restriction at the turbo outlet. We will see.

Your thinking is flawed-for example the actual ID of the turbo outlet of a standard s cover is about 1.7 inches. In my research-I had a spare I cut up to measure. Where I took the measurement was at the end of the compressor discharge surface- highlighted here here as area and shown here


with that line of thinking-you could run a 43mm TB on a 6766(S) and see no gain from going larger on the TB. That is obviously not the case, and simply not how fluid dynamics works. I hope that highlights where I am coming from.

Originally Posted by JusMX141

Hopefully TalonDave this coming season. His 9.67 @ 151 pass was done with a non-turbo throttle body and 2.5" piping along with a heavy chassis and a poor 60ft using an intercooler that was designed for a 16G.

Now with the caged chassis and an ETS 5" core hung on the car, he still has 2.5" piping and the same unmodded non-turbo throttle body that was on the car in 2011. The weight savings alone over the previous chassis should put the car a few MPH faster...enough to get in 8-second pass if the launch is worthy.

I guess if you want to get technical a non-turbo throttle body is a tiny bit of a size upgrade over a 1G turbo throttle body, but still considered an OEM part. No sense using a giant throttle body if the turbo's only 60mm, right?

So, that answer is NO. Again, not trying to stir the pot, and I was not questioning that good power could be made on a 60mm TB-I juts did not like that someone said "a few cars have ran 8's" when that is 100% false. This is a ongoing debate, and there is no room for misinformation.

As for TalonDave-the 7 tenths of a second is a HUGE gap when talking about going from the 9's to the 8's, but I wish him luck!

Originally Posted by twicks69

I haven't gotten the elusive 8-second pass yet, but I did have a few 130-132mph 1/8th mile trap speeds on 50-55psi range. I was doing 9.4's with 123mph 1/8th mph on 40psi this year also. Highest mph complete pass this year was only 154mph, I had wrecked the cylinder head and was lifting it severely for the entire 2012 season. I was also seeing these issues in 2011 and didn't realise that I completely shifted the cylinder head casting and stretched out the 7-bolt L19 head studs, and elongated the head stud holes and crushed the head stud washer seating surfaces.
Overall, still damn good considering the problems I was having, especially on top of the other breakage of stuff this year at the track.
Still on 1g 60mm throttle body and 2.5" ic pipes.
It is doable, but I don't know more than a handful of people who hit low 9's/high 8's on this.

You car runs great- but I think you would also agree that going 8's in not a matter of make x HP, cut Y 60 foot, net Z time.

The reason I am looking into this is for the new Colt-goals for this year are 9.xx and to trap 160mph. On a budget setup-you have to look at every avenue for cutting corners to save money-one of which is the benefit of an upgraded TB, and what intercooler to run. Its an issue due to limited space up front, I have several intercoolers to choose from, but the lager units will require a ton of work-its set up with 2.5 in and out now, but at this point I am 100% convinced over 700whp (in terms of airflow-over 950cfm area-obviously whp numbers may vary), you will see a benefit in 3inch Cold side plumbing and TB. Mathematically speaking using equations designed for fluid dynamics.

I think at this point, I will try it with 2.5 cold side plumbing/stock TB since thats what on the car now- and see hwp and see how far that takes me. I am confident though once I am nearing 800whp that I will see a gain when I bump the size on the cold side.

[945liter]

Originally Posted by JusMX141

Hopefully TalonDave this coming season. His 9.67 @ 151 pass was done with a non-turbo throttle body and 2.5" piping along with a heavy chassis and a poor 60ft using an intercooler that was designed for a 16G.

What do you consider a "heavy chassis" ? I'd imagine that car was 26xxlbs before cutting the front end.

Maybe heavy compared to Jeff or shep but i don't think heavy chassis is correct lol.

Curious on what it weighed.



Coltboostin I can't give any insight because my car is slow and doesn't run 8s. I was on 33psi with issues, but i run a 6266 with a 2.5 hotside into a 3inch cold side with a s90 TB.

[coltboostin]

Originally Posted by 945liter

Coltboostin I can't give any insight because my car is slow and doesn't run 8s. I was on 33psi with issues, but i run a 6266 with a 2.5 hotside into a 3inch cold side with a s90 TB.

Your funny.

Did you ever run it on a 2.5 and stock TB with that set up?

[crash89]

Originally Posted by coltboostin

Name ONE. I hate researching info and seeing misinformation. If I am incorrect-I woudl like to sees some facts to base my next set up on. Find me one, maybe 2 DSM's in the 8's on a 60mm TB and 2.5 inch plumbing. PLEASE! This will save me some time this winter.

A close buddy of mine went 5.91 @ 119 in the 1/8 this year on a stock tb and 2.5 IC piping. Never got a full pass in due to some small issues. Definitely good for 8s..