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Old 07-03-2008, 07:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Evo 3 16g runs 10s part 2



Engine: SM built 6 bolt, Eagle rods, Wisco pistons, HKS 264/272 cams, ARP everything, Stock intake and exhaust manifold, 680 injectors

Turbo setup: Mitsu Heavy Industries Evo 3 16g ported cold and hot sides, Evo 3 O2 housing ported, SM intercooler kit using a Evo bar and plate intercooler

Drive train: Shep stage 1 trans modified by SM for Spool center diff and Evo 3 shift forks, Cryo treated transfer case, DSS Aluminum drive shaft, DSS stage 3 rear axles.

Suspension: Prothane bushing kit, Kyb Agx shocks, Eibach prokit, Rota Slipstreem rims

Tuned with DSM link, AEM EMS is coming soon
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Old 07-03-2008, 08:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Damn, that's badass.

Those short times are REALLY awesome. Helping you out a lot too.


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Old 07-03-2008, 08:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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awsome run.i just moved from mundelein to tn, so im missin' great lakes dragaway pretty bad right now.that left lane has a pretty bad dip,there is a tenth or two in that right lane.bristol is my new home track.do you post on chitownracing?ever hang out @ the corners? i remember getting beat by a red 2nd gen w/ 6 bolt and 16g on it.the guy tore his aps sticker off the front. might have been you.lol
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Old 07-04-2008, 12:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Makes me proud to love a 16g! Nice runs man
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Old 07-04-2008, 03:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And you have guys on here with built motors and big turbos running high boost and cant even get out of the 12's.

Great runs man, cant wait to take my shit to the track once I get some more mods.


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Old 07-04-2008, 03:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Makes me want to buy a 16g
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Old 07-04-2008, 03:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice! On a 264/272 combo no less.

What's your race weight? The thing isn't gutted, is it? 'Cause it doesn't appear to be in the video.

Also, how much boost are you squeezing out of that thing?


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Old 07-04-2008, 07:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I never had any stickers on my car so I dont think so.


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awsome run.i just moved from mundelein to tn, so im missin' great lakes dragaway pretty bad right now.that left lane has a pretty bad dip,there is a tenth or two in that right lane.bristol is my new home track.do you post on chitownracing?ever hang out @ the corners? i remember getting beat by a red 2nd gen w/ 6 bolt and 16g on it.the guy tore his aps sticker off the front. might have been you.lol
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just weighed the car yesterday, its just over 2700 pounds. Ive doon some weight reduction since the first video. Im runnin around 30 psi.


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Nice! On a 264/272 combo no less.

What's your race weight? The thing isn't gutted, is it? 'Cause it doesn't appear to be in the video.

Also, how much boost are you squeezing out of that thing?
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Come check out the car in person guys @ Strictly Modified.

Strictly Modified
533 Morse Ave
Schaumburg,IL 60193

(847) 891-0702

-Cisco
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thats bad ass... 1.4 60 fts... Sick man.

How much did that DS Aluminum driveshaft help the car?


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Old 07-05-2008, 12:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Those are serious numbers for the Evo 3 turbo! Seems like you got just the right combination of parts.
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Old 07-05-2008, 01:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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that is sick man!


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Old 07-05-2008, 02:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The drive shaft makes the car feel alot smoother out of the hole, but the whole reason I bought it was because I kept breaking transfer cases.


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Thats bad ass... 1.4 60 fts... Sick man.

How much did that DS Aluminum driveshaft help the car?
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMboostinawd View Post
The drive shaft makes the car feel alot smoother out of the hole, but the whole reason I bought it was because I kept breaking transfer cases.
Yea with those 60ft times I can believe that.
So the driveshaft takes/absorbs shock off of the Tcase I take it?

Were you 60fts any lower after the installation of the driveshaft since you say it felt a lot smoother out of the hole... Did you accelerate any differently when just doing pulls or driving normally?

Just wondering, I dont here that many ppl using them except for all out drag guys.
I would love to put one on my car, since every little bit counts right.... There just so expensive,
200 dollars less would be more reasonable than the 700 I seen one for.


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Old 07-05-2008, 07:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ya it twists about 4 times more than the stock drive shaft, 60' were about the same. The one thing I did notice is my solid mounted rear end makes alot less noise. 10lb off the rotational mass of the drivetrain, Im sure translates into a little more whp.


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Yea with those 60ft times I can believe that.
So the driveshaft takes/absorbs shock off of the Tcase I take it?

Were you 60fts any lower after the installation of the driveshaft since you say it felt a lot smoother out of the hole... Did you accelerate any differently when just doing pulls or driving normally?

Just wondering, I dont here that many ppl using them except for all out drag guys.
I would love to put one on my car, since every little bit counts right.... There just so expensive,
200 dollars less would be more reasonable than the 700 I seen one for.
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Old 07-06-2008, 03:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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10s on a 16g!!!

How can you hold 30 lbs? I cant hold 30 lbs. I can stay spiked at 29-30 lbs but it will not hold 30lb . Oh and what kind of timing are you running? Im soo stoked to see this man this is very motivating.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Get an FP Race manifold on there... You might see some gains

I went from 116mph to 118mph on the same tune with a manifold swap, and throttlebody (rebuilt, old one didn't really leak though).


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Old 07-06-2008, 11:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The trick is lots of washers in between the compressor housing and the actuator. This makes the tension the actuator puts on the flapper door higher witch in turn allows you to run and hold more boost. Mine is shimmed so that it can only open the wastegate flapper 1/8". This is a trick I started using 9 years ago when i had A 89 DODGE DAYTONA TURBO. My Ignition timming is conservative because the TDO5H turbine creates alot of back pressure, every car is different just use good gas and watch your knock.



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How can you hold 30 lbs? I cant hold 30 lbs. I can stay spiked at 29-30 lbs but it will not hold 30lb . Oh and what kind of timing are you running? Im soo stoked to see this man this is very motivating.
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Get an FP Race manifold on there... You might see some gains

I went from 116mph to 118mph on the same tune with a manifold swap, and throttlebody (rebuilt, old one didn't really leak though).
Yea man thats nice, I need to get to the track and see what gains I got from the Fp mani; 3in Gm maft w/ CAI, and bc272s... The most this car has ever trapped on straight pump gas was like 110 before I put all that stuff, with a bit of a softer tune than I run now.
Im hopeing I can get my pump gas numbers on par with my 'past' race gas traps/ET's...
Basically high 11sec pump gas 16g car like you have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMboostinawd View Post
The trick is lots of washers in between the compressor housing and the actuator. This makes the tension the actuator puts on the flapper door higher witch in turn allows you to run and hold more boost. Mine is shimmed so that it can only open the wastegate flapper 1/8". This is a trick I started using 9 years ago when i had A 89 DODGE DAYTONA TURBO. My Ignition timming is conservative because the TDO5H turbine creates alot of back pressure, every car is different just use good gas and watch your knock.
What kind of ign timing are you seeing through boost, and what AFR, if you dont mind me asking...

I put 1 shim on each of my bolts on my actuator to shim it a little bit.
I couldnt really put any more washers because the bolts are too short, and I didnt feel like finding longer bolts, plus it just makes the boost spike a little worse.
I did get noticeably quicker spool from doing that though, but my car falls off in boost up top all the same.
These cams really suck the breath out of this little turbo in the higher rpms; and my leaking tb shaft seals and forge bov arent helping the matter.

My current plan of attack is external gated 16g setup with stiff springs in the gate to have minimum boost as close as possible to desired boost ( 24-25psi) therefore the external gate wont open up too soon and start bleeding off pressure throughout the pull, ( since it slowly opens the more boost you build) and thus allowing me to maybe pick up another 1 or 2lb/min of air flow by the turbo holding a few psi a tad longer up top were it counts; and not to mention even quicker spool...
I already have my 38mm gate, going to get punishment racing recir o2 housing next pay check and Ill post my results to let you guys know how it goes as to whether my 16g holds boost better or not.


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Old 07-06-2008, 01:00 PM   #21 (permalink)