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Old 05-27-2012, 04:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #61 (permalink)
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From: Rocky Hill, Connecticut
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Awesome build man. Love how the ratchet install came out! Seems like you've spent plenty of cash so I have to wonder why you want to toy around with that 20g? Nostalgia!! Seriously those dinosaurs are laggy turds




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Old 05-28-2012, 11:23 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #62 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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The Buschur 20G isn't bad, and the reason behind it is my buddy and me wanted to prove a point to some guys locally that you don't need a big Turbo to go fast, just the right setup. After I finish the suspension, the plan is to send the head off to get ported and a magnus cast intake manifold, shearer exhaust manifold, and a FP 3794 will go on along with other mods to support the larger setup (bigger cams, head studs, so on). Next on the list for now is a welded center differential.

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Old 05-31-2012, 08:34 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #63 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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Got my rear subframe & mustache bar bushings in the mail today!



I've got everything back together on the car and installed the Avid motor mounts (trans and driver side), it was a PITA to get these things all bolted up but I got it. I had received a call a couple weeks ago from extremepsi asking me if I'd had any issues with them since I was one of the only people who had purchased them that hadn't called back complaining about fitment. They told me others have had issues stating the mounts were off. I was relieved when I got them on and everything went together after a little work.

Now I'm having issues trying to reset base timing with the COP. I don't have the old factory coil any more so I can't install spark plug wires to set it. I've tried hovering and placing the pickup on the #1 coil but couldn't get a signal. I've seen a wire for sale online that is used for adapting a coil on plug for this I just need to find it, it basically plugs into the coil and gives you a wire so you can place the trigger over it for a signal. I need to reset the base timing because it got off when I was swapping the CAS out trying to figure out the tach issue.

Next on the list is to get this rig retuned and take it back to the track finally. Also still need to install the staging brake.

After a couple trips to the track next is installing a welded center diff and dropping the subframes to install new suspension bushings and get the subframes powdercoated.

Also got some parts from my ole buddy Chuck who parted out his 1G and sold the chasis.

Jays Racing Alternator relocation kit, Toe Eliminators, and a copper gasket for the turbo manifold for when I upgrade the ported 2G one.


Last edited by J_HEATH; 05-31-2012 at 03:57 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 05-31-2012, 08:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #64 (permalink)
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From: Somonauk, Illinois
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Looking at selling the dash, steering wheel and center console from the wrecked 8?

Nice build, SD all the way.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:20 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #65 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92AWDTalonTSI View Post
Looking at selling the dash, steering wheel and center console from the wrecked 8?

Nice build, SD all the way.
Call or text the owner.

Chuck Bethea
251-232-2668

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Old 06-01-2012, 09:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #66 (permalink)
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From: penscola, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_HEATH View Post
The Buschur 20G isn't bad, and the reason behind it is my buddy and me wanted to prove a point to some guys locally that you don't need a big Turbo to go fast, just the right setup. After I finish the suspension, the plan is to send the head off to get ported and a magnus cast intake manifold, shearer exhaust manifold, and a FP 3794 will go on along with other mods to support the larger setup (bigger cams, head studs, so on). Next on the list for now is a welded center differential.

20g's are fun and can make plenty power,i made 350 on 18 pounds
but plan on going bigger whenever i go 6 bolt.
the shop is awsome,we will have to meet up sometime man,love the build and where its going,keep up the good work.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #67 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmtwins2g View Post
20g's are fun and can make plenty power,i made 350 on 18 pounds
but plan on going bigger whenever i go 6 bolt.
the shop is awsome,we will have to meet up sometime man,love the build and where its going,keep up the good work.

I'm running 28psi and a 100shot of nitrous on Q16. Hopefully I'm making more than 350awhp

No doubt, maybe at the next big car meet or something.

Import Showdown is on the 23rd on June in Montgomery, AL.

I'm going to try my hardest to get this thing retuned and make it to this event and see what it will do in the 1/4th!


Last edited by J_HEATH; 06-05-2012 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 06-07-2012, 08:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #68 (permalink)
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From: Youngstown, AB, Canada
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cost??


so in total how much has this car put you out? you have done a lot to it, and I am wanting to do the same thing to my car. how much was it all? and do you have any advice for me as I do my car

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Old 06-07-2012, 07:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #69 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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I have $8k, maybe $9k total in it so far. I have a 3 ring binder with all receipts for everything I've bought for it, or machine work, and such. I'll probably put another $7-10k in it before I'm done.

Advice? Not real sure, if you have any questions I'd be glad to help. I have yet to put up any numbers (track/quarter mile) so I don't know how much worth my advice is on building a DSM. Just 1/8th mile which I only made 4 passes in this car.

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Old 06-08-2012, 09:21 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #70 (permalink)
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Very nice build man. I never usually read these, but love it when I stumble upon a nice one like this.

Are you using, a direct port, or a single fogger I didnt catch that?

I would love to see the results on 100 shot. Should get down the 1320 in a very fast matter lol.


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Old 06-08-2012, 11:06 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #71 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastlaser View Post
Very nice build man. I never usually read these, but love it when I stumble upon a nice one like this.

Are you using, a direct port, or a single fogger I didnt catch that?

I would love to see the results on 100 shot. Should get down the 1320 in a very fast matter lol.
Thanks!

It's a wet kit with the nozzel located in the 2G throttle body elbow.

Before I was shifting at 7.8-8k rpms, with the nitrous I'm going to go up to 8.5-9k rpms.

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Old 06-09-2012, 03:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #72 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9 View Post
Awesome build man. Love how the ratchet install came out! Seems like you've spent plenty of cash so I have to wonder why you want to toy around with that 20g? Nostalgia!! Seriously those dinosaurs are laggy turds
Also I'd like to say,

I've seen time and time again people build their car around a huge turbo. They go out and buy a 35-42R size turbo, running a GM maf, stock port head, pump gas, no suspension mods besides shocks and springs or coilovers, and so on.
Not really flowing enough air or running enough boost to make an efficient amount of power to support the large turbo. As well as having crappy 60fts, just making hot air with the turbo that is too large for the power they are wanting to make.

I don't build cars around a turbo, I prefer to get the chasis and motor done and ready so when I do upgrade the turbo it will be ready and able to handle the change.

Like stated earlier I'm sure I can get a 10 out of the lil old 20G before it gets retired and put on the shelf. Then I'll upgrade everything needed at once to support the larger turbo. Probably going to go with the FP3794 HTA, I'm hoping with that turbo I could be able to squeeze an 8 second pass out of it eventually. If not then it would be back to the drawing board and going with one of FP's 42R frame turbos.

That of course is months away. Until then I'm just focusing on finishing it with the 20G and giving it hell at the track.

Small update

I got my valve cover and chromoly mustache bar powdercoated gloss black





Also, resetting the timing with a COP setup is a PITA!

Last edited by J_HEATH; 06-09-2012 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 06-28-2012, 08:50 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #73 (permalink)
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So I wasn't able to make it to Import Showdown. I went out Friday night and tried to retune the Talon but we couldn't get the injectors to cooperate. Fusterated, I came home and snatched them out and sold them, ordered a set of ID 1000cc High Z injectors with plug and play adapters and a resistor box delete plug.



Looking to go retune next week, hopefully with successful results this time.

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Old 06-29-2012, 05:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #74 (permalink)
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Last of my suspension bushings came in today.

Front lower control arms, front subframe bushings, and driveshaft bushings.

All of the suspension bushings won't go on the car until I get it retuned and back on the track and make some passes.


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Old 07-03-2012, 09:05 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #75 (permalink)
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Got a Moroso sealed battery box that meets NHRA rules/regulations to replace the walmart special non sealed box I have now. Also got a Moroso battery cuttoff switch.

Waiting on my trans cooler to come in now, trans temps got up to the 190's last time I drove the car.


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Old 07-09-2012, 11:25 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #76 (permalink)
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Finally got a larger Transmission cooler.

B&M super cooler 11x11x1.5



Now I just need to fab some brackets and shoe horn it where the factory side mount and the current location of the trans cooler is.

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Old 07-15-2012, 01:24 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #77 (permalink)
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Not really needed (yet) but since I was replacing the battery box I decided to go ahead and install a battery cutoff switch. Located where the hatch lock was.




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Old 07-17-2012, 01:30 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #78 (permalink)
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You are my inspiration! You help me stay focused on my build and give me a good direction to go in. Thanks for posting all of your progress. I can't wait to see how it does at the track!

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Old 07-19-2012, 05:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #79 (permalink)
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From: Houston, Texas
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Great looking build!!! Those Kosei wheels look great! Just never see them anymore!

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Old 08-13-2012, 04:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #80 (permalink)
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Thanks for the Kudo's guys.

Small update, I finally got the car somewhat retuned. Jason Story (UnknoWn tuning) came over and got the car set and Idling with the new injectors. With the ID1000's he got the car to Idle at 750rpms compared to 900 with the FIC 1650's! We just took the car for a quick spin and he got the AFR's to 12.1.1 throughtout every gear and boost is currently set at just 20psi. We didn't have time to actually go out and really tune it with the nitrous and high boost. Tuesday August 14th we are supposed to go and do that.

On another note, I took the car out a couple nights later to tinker with the launching setup (LinkV3 NLTS for auto) and without the staging brake, just on the brakes I got it to easily go to 3.8k and build full boost (20psi) and with just the foot brake it held fine. I'm going to raise the limit from 4k to 4.5 and see how it does at 4.2k. When I launched it at around 3.8K it shot out and then feel on its face. This is of course on street tires, no nitrous, on VP Q16.

Also, during this testing session the talon started running hot, so I pulled over and noticed the radiator fan wasn't kicking on. I went home and checked my logs, link was reading the temp sensor, so I pulled the relay for the fan and checked it, its clicking so it was good, I bypassed the relay and jumped the fan off and it came on so it must be the thermo switch to the fan located on the bottom of the radiator.

I called my buddy Chuck who really got me into DSM's and has been messing with them for over 12 years he has a bunch of misc DSM parts in his shop (OEM gaskets, hoses, bolts, so on still in the factory bags) as well as several spare parts laying around. He sold his 92 4/6 AWD and got an Evo VIII.

So I asked him if he had a thermo switch laying around and he tells me no, but he has a fluidyne radiator with one in it along with some FAL fans on it, and some brand new mishimoto hoses and Tbolt clamps. So he hooked me up for cheap with the new Radiator setup. While I was over there he also had a brand new in the package radiator mounting brackets and bolts, a new brake fluid resivor, mitsubishi hose for the brake resivour, the bracket that holds it, the clips that hold the hoses, and the bolts. Also had brand new transmission bolts and some other misc bolts brand new in the bags. He hooked me up with all of this for $300! SCORE!!!











Oh, and the fans are wired to plug into the factory harness.

Installed the brake fluid resivor and all of the new parts for it.



Also got the Fluidyne installed with the new brackets and bolts.


Last edited by J_HEATH; 08-14-2012 at 11:44 AM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #81 (permalink)
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Good and bad news....

The Talon is still having issues with the fans not coming on. I went to the junkyard and pulled a relay and fan temp sensor. Neither one did anything to help. I wasn't going to let this stop me from trying to finally retune it so I pulled the relay and ran a wire straight from the distribution block to where the relay is located in the fuse box so the fan would run constant. The second fan wasn't coming on, I'm assuming since it is plugged into where the condenser fan goes and I deleted everything to do with A/C. I'm going to splice the two fans together, get all new sensors, and try that. If that doesn't fix it I'm just going to run a wire to a switch and locate in the car somewhere to manually turn them on and off.

Also I was having an Issue with the boost. I origionally had the vacuum lines ran to the wastegate with one port open and the other going to the boost solenoid. I redone the lines and ran then to the top and side of the wastegate. Since doing this the boost was just spiking at 20psi and falling to wastegate pressure 14.7psi (1 bar). I am going to double and tripple check to make sure I have the lines ran like they say to run them on ECMlinks Wiki section on running the ingersol boost solenoid. If they are correct I will switch them back to the way I had them and just go with it. The reason why I switched the way they are ran is because the wastegate was making a funky noise fluttering and sound really weird and silly popping throughout the RPM's.

The good news is I finally sprayed the nitrous! (100 wet shot)

The car handled it very well and when it came in, it hit hard! The car took off like a rocket, boost jumped 6psi and it pulled hard until I let off. I'm going to get the boost pressure up to 25psi and see how it does. Then go up to 28psi and see how it reacts. I don't want to run more than 29psi because I think anything more would just be creating hot air with the 20G. Also we tried to tinker more with the launching but the motor and trans got hot while I was stalling it up so we had to call it quits until we resolve the cooling issues.

So next on the agenda is to fix the cooling issue with the motor. All new sensors and wire the fans inline with each other. Also to get AN fittings and nylon hose and fab a bracket for the larger B&M trans cooler. Fix the boost pressure issue to get the car back to making 25-28psi.

Then take it for a test spin and make sure the AFR's are good. It was running 11.5 when we sprayed it and holding that throughout the RPM's. Also Jason (Unknown Tuning) was very conservative with the timing so we have a lot of timing left to add in and the car didn't see a single count of knock. So with what we got accomplished with the issues we had I was please with the outcome.

Now my buddy Chuck and me will be leaving tonight to head to Norwalk, OH for the 20th Annual DSM/EVO shootout!!!

When we get back I'm sure after seeing all of the fast cars I will be even more motivated to finish my car and get to the track. If I can't muster a 10 second pass in the quarter mile I have the pills for a 150 shot on reserve. I'm hoping for mid 6's in the 1/8th at our local track. I think with the car running a 7.0 with a 1.6 60ft. the last time out on street tires and no nitrous, I think a mid 6 is very do-able with the hoosiers, nitrous, and the new launch setup.

Last edited by J_HEATH; 08-15-2012 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping

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Old 08-24-2012, 11:01 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #82 (permalink)
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Great build. Love the car. I was at the SO and had I seen this thread would have looked for your car.
After seeing so many Autos running there. Tempted to convert my 90 drag car to an Auto.
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:20 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #83 (permalink)
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Another update....

Well Monday after I got back from the Shootout and pumped to get my car going and get back to the track I went out to the garage and tinkered with it and figured something out. I did some rearranging and waited til Tuesday night to take the car out for a test drive. Well I think I figured out the low boost issue lol



I'm going to buy some new sensors for the coolant system and rewire the fans for the radiator Monday when I'm off work as well as order the AN lines and fittings for my larger trans cooler. When all that comes in I'll fab up a bracket to mount it to the car. Then its back to the streets to do a couple pulls and see if there is any tweaking to the tune that needs to be done before I finally take it back to the track. Also I need to do a couple launches and see how it does and figure out when I need the nitrous to come in at.

This log was done just cruising and then laying into the throttle in 3rd gear I believe, may have been 2nd gear I really don't remember.

Also Jason Story (Unknown Tuning) is very conservative when it comes to tuning and is one of those that wants to make sure everything is working absolutely perfect before he starts changing things to make more power. Hince the vaginia degrees timing.

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Old 08-24-2012, 08:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #84 (permalink)
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I dont know if you know this but the bottle should have the top forward or straight up and down...the tube goes to the bottom and when you leave the gas will move to one side.


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Old 08-26-2012, 05:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #85 (permalink)
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I was not aware. I'll have to look in my NHRA rule book and see what the regulations are. Thanks for pointing that out. Its tight in the hatch for mounting anything, especially with the factory gas tank. Its hard to get to the bottomed of anything and get a washer and nut on a bolt since the gas tank covers the majority of the area on the bottom of the hatch area. I was debating on taking the rear seats out and having carpet made to cover the area where they are and maybe mounting the bottle there but i'm sure it won't fit long ways there either. Worst case I'll just have to leave it where its at until I get a JM Fab fuel cell in a couple months.

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Old 08-27-2012, 12:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #86 (permalink)
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I actually have my bottle mounted in the area where your battery box is. Made it easy to get the bolts in for the bottle brackets. Mounted the battery forward center of the trunk.


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Old 08-31-2012, 08:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #87 (permalink)
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Well SHIT!

I finally put the larger trans cooler on. The car needed it since the last time I had it out and was testing the new launching setup the trans temp got danger hot, just over 200 degrees, over 230 degrees and you start to do damage to the trans. Well I tried to get it installed with the rubber lines that are already on the car with using NPT to barbed fittings so I could take it to the track (local 1/8th mile) tonight. Well I couldn't get the damn fittings to seal on the cooler, I used a bunch of teflon and tightened them but they wouldn't seal. So I'm just going to have to wait until my AN fittings and line comes in from Summit which will probably be Tuesday or Wednesday.



As you can see the new B&M cooler is about twice as big as the small factory one I had on there.

Who knows, maybe we can get it to Gulfport, MS (1/4th mile track) Wednesday.

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Old 09-01-2012, 07:48 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #88 (permalink)
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Glad to see the car getting some love I just raided my local mitsu dealer for all the parts I could keep us posted.


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Old 09-03-2012, 05:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_HEATH
I went out Friday night and tried to retune the Talon but we couldn't get the injectors to cooperate. Fusterated, I came home and snatched them out and sold them
I had this same issue happen to me twice. I've given up on the 1250-1650 style bluemax fic injectors.


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Old 09-03-2012, 07:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #90 (permalink)
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Registered: May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman21221 View Post
I had this same issue happen to me twice. I've given up on the 1250-1650 style bluemax fic injectors.
I was highly impressed with these ID injectors. When I upgrade the turbo setup I'll be going with ID 2,000cc's for sure.

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