Drag Race Build: Project Superman: '90 Talon - building my first drag race car

Gooberlog · 07-12-2009, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superman

They are not extremely heavy. It is mostly plastic.

That's what i was thinking. Thanks a lot! I'll hold on to my heat for a while then. I still drive my car to the track.

907dsm · 07-12-2009, 11:01 AM

Subscribed what a great thread and awesome advice from guys that been there and done that.

Superman · 07-14-2009, 02:53 PM

Hey guys, there is a sale on ETS front mounts. Will the Ultra pro Race kit (dimensions 27x10.5x5" bar and plate core) be sufficient for my horse power goals? Also do you need more than one BOV and is 3 inch piping necessary?

Slippi84 · 07-14-2009, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superman

Hey guys, there is a sale on ETS front mounts. Will the Ultra pro Race kit (dimensions 27x10.5x5" bar and plate core) be sufficient for my horse power goals? Also do you need more than one BOV and is 3 inch piping necessary?

The ultra pro-race is a crazy big IC. I thought about getting it before I picked up my IC and my biggest concern was the 5" thick core. Not that people haven't used a 5" thick core and not had problems but I just didn't see the need or point in going over 4" thick. Jeff run's a 6" core and makes like 900whp so 5" will work just a matter of do you need it????? Anyway to the bov question I am dealing with this right now. I think if you get 1 Tial "Q" the newer version your good but I think it would take two of the old version to cut it with a big power setup.

twicks69 · 07-14-2009, 05:06 PM

I had no problems running 50psi at my old horsepower levels with a single old-version TiAL BOV.

As for the new setup, I did change over to a new TiAL Q BOV since I will be supporting over 1000HP and will still be running 50+psi.

The old TiAL BOV was the highest flowing BOV on the market for years, and never really caused a problem with being insufficient for 1000HP. The new TiAL Q BOV flows 60% more air than the old version and can handle ~80psi all day long.

Just be sure to have proper placement of the BOV on the UICP, and have the proper spring installed in your BOV for your application. I am running the pink spring in mine (-20 - -21 in/Hg) -- 11psi spring.

Slippi84 · 07-14-2009, 05:37 PM

I guess the big question is what kinda problems would you see with a old style 50 with 700+whp and a lot of boost? I mean I have never heard anyone say they had problems with a old style but if it was fine and could support that much power without a problem why make a newer version other than to sell more units. Only reason I could think of would be for the the guys running lots of boost and making big power who were running two before. With that said why not just get the new version and call it a day

twicks69 · 07-14-2009, 06:49 PM

I had absolutely no problems with the old version. It functioned the way it was supposed to for the 5 years I ran the original 50mm version. Great product!

The new version was pretty much designed so that it would be more difficult for the chinese knock-off companies to produce. The new design will take longer for the knock-off companies to re-tool and redesign, letting TiAL make more sales of quality parts. It just happened to be a higher flowing BOV than the original one, so it was a win-win scenario for TiAL as they solidified their "Q" BOV as the highest flowing BOV on the market.

You should have absolutely no problems with any of TiAL's BOV or Wastegate designs -- they are one of the best in the business for a reason. I would also rank TurboSmart up there with TiAL, and stand by their products as well!

Superman · 07-14-2009, 07:30 PM

Thanks for the advice. One Bov should be fine. A 5 inch IC is more than I need, but it will give me room to grow.

Superman · 07-15-2009, 04:59 PM

Hey Guys, I just wanted your opinions on the AEM fuel rail. Do they flow well and are they compatible with all fuels (Meth, E85, etc.). Also what do you think about the AEM Cam gears. I see they are having another sale.

twicks69 · 07-15-2009, 05:54 PM

The stock fuel rail can handle over 1000HP on gasoline.

Slippi84 · 07-16-2009, 07:38 PM

Yeah I use the stock rail with -8an fittings welded on

Superman · 07-19-2009, 01:33 PM

Superman Update

I made some progress this weekend. After removing the driveshaft, axles, and heat shield; I took the car off the jack stands to remove the engine. Taking out the engine took longer than I anticipated; however, after about two hours, I was able to pull it out. Now all I have to do is finish removing the sound deadening material from the interior, remove the windshield, and install the race seat. I still have some wiring to get rid of.

Superman · 07-19-2009, 01:55 PM

Hey guys, just wanted your opinion on the AEM Cam Gears; are they better than the Fidanza gears?

turboglenn · 07-19-2009, 02:01 PM

I would think the fidanza are better. LAst i read up on them the fidnza'a were the only ones to use SS fasteners for both sides of the bolt/clamp part. They have SS studs coming through holes that have SS nuts on them, I think all the others have bolts threading into the aluminum of the gear it's self and that is what's supposed to be the weak link that causes them to come loose and slip timing on hih HP buids. I've never known this to happen to anyone i know, but that's what i read when serching for the cam gears i wanted to buy and one of the reasons i chose fidnaza even though my car is no where near the HP numbers people say they slip at, I'd rather be safer in any aspect i can be when it comes to not destroying an engine.

USER_22 · 07-19-2009, 02:54 PM

I would go with Fidanza for 2 reasons. 1: I feel like they made a better cam gear after comparing the timing options to other similar cam gears. 2: They can be had for like $200 or so compared to paying way over $300 for a set of AEM cam gears.

Superman · 07-19-2009, 03:10 PM

Thanks for the feedback.

leepen · 07-19-2009, 10:36 PM

looks like your car was originally green too

Superman · 07-20-2009, 09:47 AM

Can you guys recommend a good race seat. I want a seat that can be used for Road racing and Drag racing. What should I be looking for in a good seat?

DWR-DSM · 07-20-2009, 12:06 PM

Would it matter to you if it was a full weight seat or something like a fiberglass seat?

Superman · 07-20-2009, 01:04 PM

Ultimately, I want something that is light weight, but I am open to suggestions.

DWR-DSM · 07-20-2009, 02:44 PM

Made of fiberglass and feels very nice to sit in. Seat is inexpensive and the company makes a bracket as well as sliders for our DSM.

Gooberlog · 07-20-2009, 05:47 PM

Which model are those seats and about how much do they run plus the cost of sliders for a 1g dsm?

Superman · 07-20-2009, 06:38 PM

Those seats look good. I will look into them.

DWR-DSM · 07-20-2009, 08:21 PM

I shopped around for the seat, bracket, and slider(I believe around 450 Total, thats with shipping). Here is the link to the seat itself, which would provide more information on it.

Corbeau Racing Seat: FX1

Gooberlog · 07-21-2009, 08:57 AM

Wow i really like that seat. I expected it to weight more than 16lbs too. Where did you find the dsm sliders for it? It looks like i might have to opt for the $29 extra fee of the wider version, i'm a 38" waist but sometimes the muffin top feels tighter than other days. For occasional street use and "room to grow" i should opt for the big boy seat. It only comes in black but that's what i want any way. This seat and getting rid off the pwr seat belts would save big weight.

Drifte · 07-21-2009, 10:40 AM

I couldnt shut the door with the big boy corbeau in my Talon. I did still have door panels and a center console though too.

DWR-DSM · 07-21-2009, 11:30 AM

I need to get some pics of it in my talon asap for I can show you. I do have the wide version since I'm 6ft tall and and weight 216. Im not wide but I felt that seat was a perfect fit for me and I have a 38 waist size.

The seat also has blue inserts as well as red insert chocies.

Slippi84 · 07-21-2009, 12:05 PM

I'm dealing with a issue with seat fitment now. The person who did my cage did a good job with the welds and placement for support but didn't take into account a non upright seat. When I bought the shell it came with a kirkey seat but as this will see the street I wanted something a little more comfortable so I bought a different set of seats and now I'm thinking I will have to just get a comfortable upright seat. Thought I would share that so you would keep that in mind when designing your cage.

Gooberlog · 07-21-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWR-DSM

I need to get some pics of it in my talon asap for I can show you. I do have the wide version since I'm 6ft tall and and weight 216. Im not wide but I felt that seat was a perfect fit for me and I have a 38 waist size.

The seat also has blue inserts as well as red insert chocies.

Yeah i'm 6'4" and 220 with a 38" waist so i figured it would be more comfortable with the wide version.
Once you got the slider for the seat was it a direct bolt in or what? Was it just the seat and the sliders and that's all?

I will probably do a race seat well before a cage in my car as i'm still rather slow.

DWR-DSM · 07-21-2009, 01:36 PM

I got everything at once to do the install. Here are some pics of the brackets and sliders. This is from the fx1 seat I got off on one of thier websites so they may not be exactly like the mine but they are just about the same. I do believe they make two different kides of brackets for these seats but Im not sure if we could use both of them.