Drag Race Build: Project Superman: '90 Talon - building my first drag race car

[Slippi84]

Originally Posted by Superman

Thanks man. God willing I will be able to finish this project. I would hate to have to part this car out. Things look good so far. I saved a lot of money doing the work myself. Also between the classifieds and all these deals going on, I never pay full price for anything. This is a good time to build a car. We'll see how things go. Thanks for the support guys.

*1 on that man. If people knew how much I had spent I. Wouldd be competeing with a lot more people like yourself lol. I guess people just have a fobia with classified or ebay parts but oh well I'm a firm believer of if it works it works

[untouchablecc]

Why did you choose energy suspension? I have been wanting to do this but i couldnt decide on prothane or energy. Prothane is a lot more for there master kit. Did you get energys master kit?

[Gooberlog]

What are the main things that you still need to do before you can race?

[Superman]

Originally Posted by untouchablecc

Why did you choose energy suspension? I have been wanting to do this but i couldnt decide on prothane or energy. Prothane is a lot more for there master kit. Did you get energys master kit?

Yeah, I got the Energy master kit, which I didn't really need because I am not running sway bars (I'll just use them on my street car). Price was good on the Energy kit. I think that's why I picked them.

Originally Posted by Gooberlog

What are the main things that you still need to do before you can race?

I don't have much left. I have to get the cage put in, axles, turbo, exhaust out the back (Etown requires mufflers most of the time), tranny, race head, block machined, pistons, ignition (Spark Tech), fuel cell (JMF), oil cooler, radiator, bov (Tial), tires, battery kit, coilovers, CF hatch, hood, doors (I wish), fuel pump, fuel lines, gauges, helmet, gloves, some driving skills (which one is the clutch again) and some E85 fuel. That should do it. I should be done by June... 2015 (). Seriously, I have a ways to go. I can't rush. I still need you guys to tell me how to put the engine together.

[TSimage]

Just keep at it. The engine part isn't very hard once you decide which displacement you want to use. After that it is a matter of brand preference.. Pick your favored Aluminum rods, pick your favored piston (9:1 range) make sure it has the 22mm wrist pin and if not, have it machined. After that its all up to the machine shop.

I myself have a machined Buschur butterflied crank and Moroso race oil pan along with the Kiggly girdle as well as an O-Ringed block. These are all additions that you don't really need to run big times. Guys have gone fast with much less. Sometimes less is more.

As far as the head goes many have proven time and time again that fresh polished 1g head is fine. No need for over sized valves, colossal cams or extensive porting. However, the addition of any of those will help you towards your goal. My head is personally ported, over sized valves, titanium retainers, sleeved and the such. Again, overkill but if you can afford it, remember it will make your goals that much easier to attain, and your car will be a little more forgiving.

Being totally honest with you you can throw together a stock head iron rod motor with a good set of cams such as the FP2s or Kelford 272s (much bigger) and run single digits..

ITS ALL IN THE TUNE AND NO MOD IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE DRIVER MOD.

At the end of the day there are way too many ways to skin a cat. Just pick a path and go for it gungho.

Keep on plugging along. 2010 is looking promising, DSMs just keep getting faster and faster! I just spent a little bit of time working on my wire tuck and managed to relocate my full engine harness so its hidden. As soon as these pictures load I'll have them up in my Raven build thread.

[Slippi84]

Originally Posted by TSimage

Just keep at it. The engine part isn't very hard once you decide which displacement you want to use. After that it is a matter of brand preference.. Pick your favored Aluminum rods, pick your favored piston (9:1 range) make sure it has the 22mm wrist pin and if not, have it machined. After that its all up to the machine shop.

I myself have a machined Buschur butterflied crank and Moroso race oil pan along with the Kiggly girdle as well as an O-Ringed block. These are all additions that you don't really need to run big times. Guys have gone fast with much less. Sometimes less is more.

As far as the head goes many have proven time and time again that fresh polished 1g head is fine. No need for over sized valves, colossal cams or extensive porting. However, the addition of any of those will help you towards your goal. My head is personally ported, over sized valves, titanium retainers, sleeved and the such. Again, overkill but if you can afford it, remember it will make your goals that much easier to attain, and your car will be a little more forgiving.

Being totally honest with you you can throw together a stock head iron rod motor with a good set of cams such as the FP2s or Kelford 272s (much bigger) and run single digits..

ITS ALL IN THE TUNE AND NO MOD IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE DRIVER MOD.

At the end of the day there are way too many ways to skin a cat. Just pick a path and go for it gungho.

Keep on plugging along. 2010 is looking promising, DSMs just keep getting faster and faster! I just spent a little bit of time working on my wire tuck and managed to relocate my full engine harness so its hidden. As soon as these pictures load I'll have them up in my Raven build thread.

Do you ever answer a question or respond to a thread without dropping a status update on your build lol.

[TSimage]

Originally Posted by Slippi84

Do you ever answer a question or respond to a thread without dropping a status update on your build lol.

. I'm so bad at updating my build thread on this forum... I keep forgetting about it. I guess its my subliminal way of reminding myself. Haha, I have that one track mind. Where's your updates BTW? I'm looking for one of you guys to give me a nudge to do mine..

Good job everybody. >=P

[VTEC_THIS]

Wow, I'm impressed. It really looks like a great build so far, good luck with everything!

[NBsonlydsm]

Just wanted to say awesome thread and keep it up man, reading this makes me wanna wrench on my project, its been sitting too long and doesnt need much more to run.

[tank2220]

Help!!! Need updates!!!!!!

[Kevin TSI]

Looking great so far.

"edit."

[Superman]

Originally Posted by Kevin TSI

Looking great so far.

"edit."

Thanks. Updates are coming soon. I am still working on those bushings.

[DWR-DSM]

Where does the beast stand now?

[1gEvoSmasher]

i just popped through this post and damn that car looks like itll be beautiful, that exhaust mani set up you picked up was beautiful! im lookin forward to seeing your timeslip!! keep that shit up!

[Superman]

Superman Update

Just a quick update; I have not had much time to work on the car due to the weather and my job. I was able to get all the subframe bushings out. I used a propane torch to set the bushings on fire. The heat will soften them up. It takes a while, but eventually they catch on fire. I then used a screw driver to pry them out. It takes a little bit of work. After you get the first one out, the rest come easy. I just have to clean up the subframe, install the new bushings, and paint.

[eclipse gsx]

nice built man keep it up

[tank2220]

Originally Posted by Superman

Superman Update

Just a quick update; I have not had much time to work on the car due to the weather and my job. I was able to get all the subframe bushings out. I used a propane torch to set the bushings on fire. The heat will soften them up. It takes a while, but eventually they catch on fire. I then used a screw driver to pry them out. It takes a little bit of work. After you get the first one out, the rest come easy. I just have to clean up the subframe, install the new bushings, and paint.

wow.. good to see u got this done.. ive been dreading doing this to mine but needs to be done.. aaarrggh even worse got to do the rear diff bushings too...

[Superman]

Superman Update

I was able to get the front control arm bushings out today. These bushings are actually easy to remove. There was no need for the torch. I simply clamped the control arm in the vice and used a separater to push the bushing out. These bushings are not bonded to the arm, so they came out easy.

[bombbeet1]

theres another 1g bov uncrushed that will be in the classifieds!

[dedonx]

Originally Posted by TSimage

There is so much that you need to understand. A lot of people will give you advice on how to build a car that they themselves have no idea how to build. Beware. A majority haven't even touched 11s let alone 10s and in almost all cases, never 9s.

DO set a budget, if you don't you'll hate yourself in the end. Having a set budget allows you to forcibly make yourself more patient. If you don't care how much you are spending than you will tend to make more rash decisions. A lot of other guys don't have budgets because they have no idea what they are doing and because of that couldn't put together a budget if they had to.

Understand that there are MULTIPLE ways to skin a cat. Guys are running 9s with 35r sized turbos now so more or less we need to understand what are your goals. Track only? Boost only no nitrous? Street car? Etc etc. The GT line of turbos are dinosaurs. Look towards the new pairings that other companies have, just about everything on the market it cheaper and better than a Garrett turbo. Don't even touch a 42r unless you want to use spray.

Next you need to weigh all options whether it be drive train, engine displacement etc. For example, with the advancements in Auto technology automatics are the way to go. They are stronger, faster, more consistent, cheaper, and break less stuff. Along with that they require a lot less maintenance and less additional parts numbering the thousands upon thousands of dollars saved.

If you are going with E85 it will require a much more elaborate fuel setup. Dual fuel rails, larger feed lines etc. (There are pros and cons for everything remember) If you are looking for a block, there is no harm in finding a built one for sale, just make sure you have a local shop go over it just to be sure, that way all guesses are out the window. If you have to ask if a certain part should be replaced, then replace it. Never cheap out on small parts, those are normally the failure points of any build. Don't just replace half your pulleys, not just use the middle ranged bearings, do yourself a favor and buy the better part the first time.. BUY IT ONCE. Don't do that "I'm buying this then I'll get the better version later" that's the dumbest point of reasoning I have ever heard and there are many guilty of it.

Leave room in your budget for safety equipment. I have had to counsel many guys who underestimate the amount of money that is required for your personal and automotive safety equipment. Next remember that sh*t WILL break.. Have an extra buffer for repairs. Next is topping off.. aka finishing touches. These parts will nickle and dime you. Bolts, relays, hoses, fittings, wires, etc. Oh and SEARCH! Most of the question you probably plan to ask i here can be answered by showing some initiative and doing your own research. That will insure that you fully understand why you are making the decisions you are making rather than doing them simply because someone else told you to.

Looking forward to see some progress. Start with stripping that thing of every single part you wont be using. And of course that varies depending on if you plan to use it as a street car, during the winter or completely track only. Then again running e85 on a vehicle that's purposely made for the track isn't a very smart thing to do...

man... you know your ish. definately put it all into perspective...

[dees75z]

Originally Posted by Superman

Superman Update

Just a quick update; I have not had much time to work on the car due to the weather and my job. I was able to get all the subframe bushings out. I used a propane torch to set the bushings on fire. The heat will soften them up. It takes a while, but eventually they catch on fire. I then used a screw driver to pry them out. It takes a little bit of work. After you get the first one out, the rest come easy. I just have to clean up the subframe, install the new bushings, and paint.

ahhh, memories, lol

Those things are fun.................

[LocknessMonster]

HAHA I just got done finishing my bushings up. Your neighbors will love the smell of burning rubber.

[Superman]

Superman Update

The project continues. I have been busy lately with work, so I have not made too much progress. Funds were low recently, but I was able to buy some more parts, nothing major. I picked up a tubular crossmember and some brake lines. I also picked up a used Moroso oil pan, but this is for my other car. (I would like to do some roadracing this year with my DD.) I hope to finish the suspension shortly and send the car to JMF to get the cage put in.

[DWR-DSM]

Let me know how the Moroso oil pan turns out. I was looking into getting it awhile ago.

[Michaelsgsx]

This is a very nice building ..

[Superman]

Superman Update

Ok guys, just a quick parts update. Been out of town working lately so I have not made much progress. I did however pick up some CF doors that I got from Gt fabrications. This should help reduce some weight. I got a great deal so I had to get them. Check out the pics. They look really good and have all the correct bolt locations. I'll keep you posted on fitment.

[habitatguy187]

Doors look great. How heavy are they?

[eclipse gsx]

damn weight the doors and ill think of buying ones for my 2g

[Superman]

Originally Posted by habitatguy187

Doors look great. How heavy are they?

about 15-20lbs or so.

[Slippi84]

I was thinking about going with CF parts but after seeing how easy some of that stuff cracks I didn't want to have to worry about that while driving on the street. Looks great though and should set off the outside of your car real nice.